Sharing........

A misleading part number change from MB.

EPC stated these 2 part numbers for both boot repair kit, item 150, which you can't anyway buy pieces by pieces,except item 100.



MB official dealer website stated there is a part number change, which is common..........


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When you buy using the new part number, you will only get the boot, nothing else . WTF... why did not they explained that ???
Indeed the P/N matched, but only for the boot and not the rest of the 5 items which the kit contains 6 items.



It would look like this, if sold as a kit


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The one difficult to subtitute with aftermarket part is the metal cup, with red arrow below.O-ring is easy and the special low profile clamp is easy.

Oldie MB, as example







I want to tear-down my right side , rear CV drive shaft......... thus I need them genuine boot repair kit.

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You ordered the 211357009102 and all they sent was a boot?

Does seem misleading since when I look up the part 0003570091 on MB parts dept website it takes me to the 211357009102 and it does appear to show 6 parts in the photo and then does say "repair kit". Luckily FCP has the 0003570091 kit by GKN for a good price.

I replaced my front drivers cv axle boots last week and have parts on order for the passenger side. Replacing all the boots due to noticing a torn inner boot so figure do them all and not have to worry. I used Genuine MB parts with GKN grease. Job went smoothly except had trouble getting the clamps tight enough. I bought 4 tools including two Oetiker and the Lisle tool and still could not do it. Came across a small vise type tool that worked great. I was able to clamp the inner boot on the hub that I had left installed in the car. There was no way I could fit the plier type tools in that location.

When searching for the part #'s they werent listed separately on the W204 diagrams but I noticed they were on the W221 diagrams, they both list the same "repair kit" part #'s. I also realized the boots are stamped with the part# and the clamps are stamped with the sizes but good luck tracking down Oetiker 167 Heavy Duty clamps by themselves. Bought most of the parts at my local MB parts dept but this time they said they were out of stock for the larger inner clamp so ordered from MBpartsource. There prices are cheaper even with shipping costs added in.

I figure my rear axles could use servicing. My plan is to buy a used rear axle and reboot that, remove the better of the two rear axles and install the new/used axle and then reboot the old axle. Can practice on the used axle first in case I screw something up. When replacing the front boots I had clamped one of the boots in the wrong groove and had to redo it, thankfully I had another clamp on hand.



Heres the clamping tool:



Heres the tools that did not work so well:

 

Yes, the MB dealer website will automatically change my data search of P/N 0003570091 to the latest on their system and that single boot only, nothing else.

Thanks for the excellent info on the tools and your front drive shaft work

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Did you test your CV bearings movement ?
The new one is so firm in all directions. I tested my new rear CV drive shaft by hand before installation.
Later on I will do movement test again when installed properly.

 

I made a thread of my replacement start to finish here: https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...e-removal.html

I tried to answer and show all the questions I had before doing the job. Like getting that vise type tool for the clamps really saved the day for me, allowed me to leave the inner hub in the car and not mess with the intermediate shaft.

The axle seemed fine just the torn inner boot. It happened fairly recently because I was working inside that wheel well recently to repair the fog light and had inspected everything while there. I couldnt pop the outer cv joint off the axle shaft so instead just put the boot on from the other side after removing the bearing holder from the shaft. After seeing the condition of the grease at the torn boot I was very glad I didnt hold off. The grease looked like caramel.

The old boots felt more like a rubber and the new boots felt like a vinyl material. or it was just my imagination. I played with the outer joint when I was putting the new grease in and it seemed to move fine. After I put the boot on I didnt really move it around except when fitting it back in the car.









I could not knock this joint free from the shaft. Then again I dont have a vise to clamp it down in.

 

Very nice thread.....

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Front drive shaft of 4-matic, DIFF side side get this trio bearing , right ?

 

Yes thats what the inner joint looks like with the 3 bearings.

The manual says to mark everything prior to removal so everything can be put back the same way. So I marked a line on the rotor, axle shaft and inner hub indicating "top". Then I made some light marks on the shaft and on the inner star so they can be lined back up. Then the three bearings I labeled 1-2-3, 1 for the top most bearing, 2 for the bearing on the left then 3 for the right. The bearings themselves go on facing a specific way also, larger washer type ring goes on the inside.

The star came off pretty easy with a 3" puller I bought for the job, went back on with a few hits from a rubber mallet then seated all the way with 13/16 socket I use for my lawnmower spark plugs. Good thing I was taking alot of photos as i went along because when I went to put the star back on I realized I wasnt keeping track of its top/bottom, luckily it has stampings on it so it was easy to check which way it was on. There are little squares stamped into it.




Scratched some light lines on the shaft and the star with a drill bit. Can see the little squares stamped on, these were towards the top/inside on mine.



I happen to pull the axle out so one of the bearings was oriented right at the top, I labeled this bearing #1, #2 on left #3 on the right easy to remember. After cleaning each bearing I placed it in its own zip lock bag with new grease, keeping track with labels 1-2-3 on the bags.



Scratched the line below indicating "top". Used it when inserting shaft back into the hub.

 

You know, I have always thought that trio bearing would be for the wheel knuckle side , because of the steering wheel moving left-right.

 

This is the only part I skipped when I was fixing my front right axle a couple of years ago, luckily I caught it really early, parked the car a few days since I have a spare car, ordered the boot kit from FCP.

Normally outer boot was leaking from the ring, it wasn`t even ripped and I ripped the inner one while I was struggling to get it out.

Was thinking about doing it myself but checked with an axle shop and they said if its the original part they would rebuild it, they would not touch an aftermarket part.
I dropped the axle and the boot kit.
For $150 they made it ready the next day for me.

Replaced the seal myself and after tilting the car, then filling with fresh gear oil, I snapped the axle in, heard the click, all is good since February 2024.