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Easiest way to do motor and tranny mounts in 2010 RWD E350
Guys,
I’m getting set to start the motor and tranny mount replacement on my 2010 E350. I’ve read numerous posts here on the forum and watched several YouTube videos on this and there are a lot of different ways of doing this out there. I have a lift in my shop and was interested in doing this by avoiding removing the alternator, A/C compressor, and exhaust as one guy on YouTube showed by dropping the subframe. Has anyone tried using that method? Although that’s my preferred way I think of doing it I’m also aware that often times, removing things that are in your way may be a little more work but can seriously reduce the hassle factor for your job. Maybe this is the same thing? Appreciate your thoughts and advice.
Have you tried to fit sockets or a wrench on the engine mount bolts to see how much clearance you have? I ask because I cant even fit a wrench on my engine mount bolts though I have a W204 and its 4matic. But still the manual shows this being able to be done, but I cant. My exhaust manifolds have to come off which is crazy.
I would first confirm your access to the bolts then plan on how to do it. As far as removing the ac and alternator I dont know why they would need to be, the manual just mentions removing the hydraulic line and bracket from the ac and alternator.
On the M276 NA RWD I was able to swap both engine mounts without removing ALT or compressor.
-- Passenger side mount went down rearward easily after removing belly pans.
-- Driver side could almost go down like the passenger side if it wasnt for the steering shaft in the way - Having the passenger mount still loose, I raised the engine just enough to gain top side clearance.
I noted the easy access for 100k Mi. Lambda from down below where exhaust lines protrude out.
New 3x mounts cure engine rocking but not vibrations.
I decided to drop the exhaust pipes which seems to make the job much easier. I think some recommend removing the alternator and A/C if they are trying to work from the top/front approach for removal of the actual mounts. (If you’ve never done this job the mounts are big- like the size of a grapefruit. A key hurdle is getting the mount out from under the motor once the bolts are removed.) I suspect they choose this approach if they don’t have a lift because dropping the exhaust would be a hassle if you had to work on your back but I have access to a lift for this job so I think removing the exhaust and taking the engine mounts out from a posterior approach is the easiest way. It only took about 20 minutes to remove both sides of the exhaust. It was super easy.
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