Brake judder
05-22-2023, 11:03 AM
#76
MBWorld Fanatic!
If it only vibrate on the highway and only while braking, usually that is a wrapped rotor. If it vibrates while cruising at high speed, it usually means the tires need to be balance.
05-22-2023, 06:27 PM
#78
MBWorld Fanatic!
05-22-2023, 06:32 PM
#79
that’s your opinion, many have said that while the holding brake is on has an effect on the discs… do a bit more digging and you will see many people who have experienced this
05-23-2023, 05:21 AM
#80
Senior Member
So, just to let you know that my original front discs did 90k km but were just starting to vibrate and had a lip so with a great online offer from Autodoc bought new BREMBO pads/discs front and back and swapped the lot. 10k km later the fron warped 3mm!! No hills, no towing nothing stressful. I replaced them with the cheapest brand avaible on Autodoc (ABS and cost 112 for both discs) but retained the BREMO pads as they were virtually unworn (and figured they would align themselves to the new discs) and they are now failing after 15k km - so better than the BREMBO and 1/4 of the price. Shame really as they actually had much more bite than the BREMBO.
I have just ordered ATE front discs and ATE Ceramic front pads, so let's see how long these last..
For context I have never replaced discs on anycar I have owned unless it was a used car and I have replaced them on purchase as I am gentle on brakes.
FFS!!!
I have just ordered ATE front discs and ATE Ceramic front pads, so let's see how long these last..
For context I have never replaced discs on anycar I have owned unless it was a used car and I have replaced them on purchase as I am gentle on brakes.
FFS!!!
05-23-2023, 07:00 AM
#81
MBWorld Fanatic!
05-24-2023, 06:39 PM
#82
Junior Member
Those of us who track our cars have know about this issue. Not common knowledge since 99% of the cars out there do. Obviously rotors aren't as hot when driving around town as on the track but when you use hold it usually after coming to a stop from 30+ miles per hour which will heat up the rotors a bit.
Google "parking brake on hot rotors"
Google "parking brake on hot rotors"
05-24-2023, 07:04 PM
#83
MBWorld Fanatic!
Those of us who track our cars have know about this issue. Not common knowledge since 99% of the cars out there do. Obviously rotors aren't as hot when driving around town as on the track but when you use hold it usually after coming to a stop from 30+ miles per hour which will heat up the rotors a bit.
Google "parking brake on hot rotors"
Google "parking brake on hot rotors"
05-24-2023, 07:34 PM
#84
Senior Member
08-17-2023, 09:35 PM
#86
Senior Member
Car entering its 7th year and had the same issue again. MB dealership claimed it was tire dressing that caused the issue, funny thing is, my car had been dirty for a couple weeks and washed it the day before service. They will do anything to deflect from taking responsibility for the issue. I ended up having to pay for new rotors and brakes pads all around. Forgot how great the car felt driving without that issue
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Mbracer26 (11-30-2023)
11-19-2023, 12:49 AM
#87
Well. I fix the problem. No brakes isue. You need perfectly balanced wheels a tyres and......! You have to tight your wheels on 75nm cross first and for second on 150nm cross. Thats it! Problems gone. 4 tyreservice doesnt use momentum key. I do it myself......
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Mbracer26 (11-30-2023)
11-20-2023, 06:56 AM
#88
Senior Member
Not 100% sure. I had my balencing done with new tyres. Wobble went away and came back. Also its temp dependent. The colder ambient it is, then the less wobble. I suspect something like brake caliper seals (I have AMG Line car with the fixed caliper). Clearly can't be the disk or it would happen all of the time
11-22-2023, 10:24 PM
#89
Senior Member
Not 100% sure. I had my balencing done with new tyres. Wobble went away and came back. Also its temp dependent. The colder ambient it is, then the less wobble. I suspect something like brake caliper seals (I have AMG Line car with the fixed caliper). Clearly can't be the disk or it would happen all of the time
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Mbracer26 (11-30-2023)
11-22-2023, 11:25 PM
#90
A try everything. Whell rotation, tyre change, tyre overflat underflat. Everything. After 5 test ride a
I read MB manual about wheel atachments. Momentum key a that it! Problem gone. Smooth ride.
I read MB manual about wheel atachments. Momentum key a that it! Problem gone. Smooth ride.
11-25-2023, 09:05 AM
#91
Member
Just my two cents worth, but your problem may not be warped rotors. If you drive in hot climates or very hilly areas, or if you drive very aggressively, you may be simply melting pad material onto your rotor. It is a common problem that is easily misdiagnosed by dealerships. I have had the same problem on my vette in the past and found that I could simply steel-wool the pad material off of the rotor and the judder went away. Often, you can see the actual outline of the pad on the rotor.
If you get the rotors very hot and then stop, holding the pad in the same spot on the rotor, the pad can leave a melted deposit on that part of the rotor. It doesn't seem like much, but it can be felt in the brake peddle as the typical thump, thump, thump when you apply the brakes. I found that if you continue to creep slowly forward a little (not fully stopping) after a very hard stop you can avoid uneven deposits. Of course this depends on the situation. After spending 30 years in West Texas, melted brake pad material on the rotors became an issue we learned quite a bit about.
Runout and cracks can also cause this feeling, but melted pad material is probably the most common.
https://www.onallcylinders.com/2017/...yths-debunked/
http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/te...ed-rotor-myth/
http://www.stoptech.com/technical-su...nd-other-myths
In hopes I am not violating any forum rules, I am adding a link to a article that better explains this.
Added a couple more articles. They are interesting reading.
If you get the rotors very hot and then stop, holding the pad in the same spot on the rotor, the pad can leave a melted deposit on that part of the rotor. It doesn't seem like much, but it can be felt in the brake peddle as the typical thump, thump, thump when you apply the brakes. I found that if you continue to creep slowly forward a little (not fully stopping) after a very hard stop you can avoid uneven deposits. Of course this depends on the situation. After spending 30 years in West Texas, melted brake pad material on the rotors became an issue we learned quite a bit about.
Runout and cracks can also cause this feeling, but melted pad material is probably the most common.
https://www.onallcylinders.com/2017/...yths-debunked/
http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/te...ed-rotor-myth/
http://www.stoptech.com/technical-su...nd-other-myths
In hopes I am not violating any forum rules, I am adding a link to a article that better explains this.
Added a couple more articles. They are interesting reading.
I took over a Subaru once with this problem. By braking more gently, and by starting to decelerate earlier and over increased stopping distances for each stop every time, the brake judder symptoms slowly lessened until they completely disappeared. It took 3 to 4 months of commuting every day though! To steel-wool the discs as suggested in the quoted post is a much quicker fix and is most certainly worth a try.
Last edited by 2008 ML 320 CDI; 11-26-2023 at 02:17 PM.
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Bfgslkman (11-27-2023)
12-15-2023, 10:01 PM
#92
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PFL205.064 with M276.823 (Oil pump solenoid defeated)
I couldn't agree more with this post. Also, getting a deposit left on the brake discs is not unique to any one model or brand of car. Some brake pads may be less prone to leaving a deposit when coming to a stop under hard braking - I don't know about that - but changing to a different type of brake pad might bring better results in the long run than simply replacing brake discs all the time.
I took over a Subaru once with this problem. By braking more gently, and by starting to decelerate earlier and over increased stopping distances for each stop every time, the brake judder symptoms slowly lessened until they completely disappeared. It took 3 to 4 months of commuting every day though! To steel-wool the discs as suggested in the quoted post is a much quicker fix and is most certainly worth a try.
I took over a Subaru once with this problem. By braking more gently, and by starting to decelerate earlier and over increased stopping distances for each stop every time, the brake judder symptoms slowly lessened until they completely disappeared. It took 3 to 4 months of commuting every day though! To steel-wool the discs as suggested in the quoted post is a much quicker fix and is most certainly worth a try.
