12V Battery Problem?
Anyone having issues with their 12V battery? I have a 24 E350 that I purchased in July, and it has been great. I remember when I first got the car, in the mercedesme app, the battery health obviously took time to calculate. 2 weeks ago I got a notification on the app that the 12 volt battery was very low. I started the car, drove for 15 minutes, and all has been fine since. yesterday it says it needs to calculate the health again. I assume this is normal?
All functions work fine, but it has been very cold here on the east coast. Just asking if anyone has experienced this?




Anyone having issues with their 12V battery? I have a 24 E350 that I purchased in July, and it has been great. I remember when I first got the car, in the mercedesme app, the battery health obviously took time to calculate. 2 weeks ago I got a notification on the app that the 12 volt battery was very low. I started the car, drove for 15 minutes, and all has been fine since. yesterday it says it needs to calculate the health again. I assume this is normal?
All functions work fine, but it has been very cold here on the east coast. Just asking if anyone has experienced this?
> There are multiple ways your starter battery will get drained:
- Drained by not driving at least every 3 weeks
- Drained by sleepless slow Body modules
- Drained by driving with ECU under 11V
> To never deal with bad battery issues, the best eay is to use a Mercedes branded battery tender made by CTEK.
It will maintain a perfect charge to keep the battery endlessly fresh for 10 years.
> WHAT NOT TO DO is jump start the car and drive with extremely high charge current (greater than 30Amp!) - Recharge first!!
> MONITOR STATUS WHILE DRIVING:
Enter the Instrument cluster "shop menu" to display live battery vitals. You want to see low currents below 10Amps.

Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Jan 26, 2025 at 01:50 PM.
Nothing to back that up but just my suspicion.
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Using an automated battery tender is the single best way to prevent battery damage while parked.
Repairing solderless modules is against policies limited to frequent battery warranty.

Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Jan 26, 2025 at 11:53 PM.




The best practice is to LOCK DOORS: it speeds up security pooling that drains the battery when door modules are unstable.
> Meaning car enters deeper sleep while LOCKED.
Sanity is restored.




When doors are locked more body modules are allowed to power down.
This result in significant energy savings measured in days.
Bottom line is always lock even at home.
Last edited by wildta; Jan 29, 2025 at 12:50 PM.

> There are multiple ways your starter battery will get drained:
- Drained by not driving at least every 3 weeks
- Drained by sleepless slow Body modules
- Drained by driving with ECU under 11V
> To never deal with bad battery issues, the best eay is to use a Mercedes branded battery tender made by CTEK.
It will maintain a perfect charge to keep the battery endlessly fresh for 10 years.
> WHAT NOT TO DO is jump start the car and drive with extremely high charge current (greater than 30Amp!) - Recharge first!!
> MONITOR STATUS WHILE DRIVING:
Enter the Instrument cluster "shop menu" to display live battery vitals. You want to see low currents below 10Amps.





This was the response I received from the Director of Service of my local dealer. Ever since I began locking my E Class when in my garage, I've not had the problem.
lock the car when not used to prevent fast battery drain.
This was covered as #2: "slow sleepless modules"








Eventually they'll make software stacks cooperate well.
Until then you can choose your preference: On/Off.






