I'm looking to sell my Kleemann supercharger kit that is for M113 engines (4.3L, 5.0L, and 5.5L NA). As of right now, it is still on my car. Normally I wouldn't want to do it like this, but it is going to cost me money to put the car back N/A due to a bunch of parts that were modified in the install or gaskets that would need to be replaced. I will include all the brackets I made for the secondary fuel pump, AIR pump, intercooler, etc. They will probably only work for the C55 but might be close for something like a CLK. I'm selling because I've had lots of little issues and I'm just fed up with it and will probably sell the car as well once I have a buyer for the supercharger. Now, as much as I hate to admit it, these issues are all probably because of me doing the install myself. I used Kleemann's directions and everything looks like it came that way for the most part, but there are TONS of little things Cory and Brandon do differently during their installs at Kleemann HQ in Colorado that seem like they would take care of all the problems I've had. So, as other on here will also say, spend the money and ship your car (or take a road trip) to Kleemann and let them install it and you should be problem free. There are lots of these kits running around out there that don't seem to have any issues. I think I'm just ready to move on at this point. The price for the entire kit will be $6,200 shipped. It costs $10,000 to buy it brand new, so if you buy mine and pay Kleemann to install it, I'd bet you'll still be $1500 cheaper than buying new and end up with the same thing. I installed the kit on my car in November or 2011 and I've only done about 6k miles since then. The supercharger unit itself is the Eaton unit has NEVER given any trouble, mainly just the supporting fuel system. The intercooler was replaced due to leaking about 10 months ago and the secondary fuel pump was just replaced due to corrosion on the terminals causing a poor connection, other than that everything is original to the kit.

 

Bump.

 

It won't let me edit my original post now for some reason. I think the best way to do this would be a deposit of some sort and then I'll take the supercharger kit off the car and provide pictures of it being off and then the rest can be paid and then I'll ship it out. I think that would be easiest for both parties.

 

oh man this sucks, I'm sorry to hear this! just out of curiosity how do you know its a problem with the install and not the parts themselves?

 

Because no one seems to have problems with these unless they're not installed at Kleemann.

 

well that sucks man...you never thought about just taking it to a tune shop who does these type of installs and seeing if they could find any issues...i mean out of curiosity what kind of "small" issues did you keep having?

I mean Lord knows i would never drive my car all the way to Colorado to have them install it. I mean if they make it so complicated that that is the only way to get a successful product then that is bad business model IMO. But i'm quite positive most that have these systems in their cars don't take them to colorado to have them installed, or am i totally in the bleachers on this one?

 

Sure I have, but there's no one around here I'd trust and I'm just tired of spending money on it. I've spent way more money than I ever should have on this car with everything I've done to it (not just the supercharger) and I think it's just time to move on.

I felt the same way, but look at what betreaza went through with having another shop do the install the then ultimately shipped his car to Colorado to get it sorted. Bonitabeast has had install issues as well. As much as it sucks, the guys in CO are the best to do it because they've done so many. Dynocomp in AZ might be the only other place.

 

Yup, best $ I ever spent was on a flatbed transport to Colorado to see Cory! Running 2 yrs and strong.

I would take a road trip and have the pro sort it out.


Btw.... I have some gear I'd let you borrow to sort this out...... Star, auto meter fuel press boost gage kit, dash daq, multi meter to scan mas voltage.....

Do you have a real time wideband?


There is some diag you can do to see what's up:
Fuel press at idle part throttle and full boost
Boost
Mas meter voltage per rpm

 

I work on cars for a living and I'm good at what I do, which is why I'm so frustrated with this car. I'm pretty positive converting it over to the current fuel system Kleemann uses with these kits would remedy my recurring fuel system problems (mainly leaks and now the problems with the pump itself, but I'd still like to find better rubber lines). Their current setup uses a stock W210 chassis fuel pump as the secondary pump instead of this Bosch 044 pump (which I am now sending in for another replacement as it doesn't want to stay running for very long). I'm just sick of spending money and having something else go wrong damn near every time I drive it. And not all of the problems are with the SC kit, stupid (but expensive IMO) stuff like the belt tensioner pulley bearings, valve cover gaskets, (AGAIN!!), etc. are really wearing me down. It still also boils down to me never being happy with the power I ended up with anyway because I didn't do enough research (I didn't really know at the time what the difference was between the Autorotor and the Eaton unit). Yes, the car is fast but I was expecting like 450-500hp, which seems to be possible with the Autorotor without changing the compression ratio.

I do have Star and a DMM. I also have a wideband that I intended to put in permanently and I had an extra bung installed in my custom exhaust for it, but the temporary plug for the bung I used has seized itself in place and I can't get it out. I even took the torch to it and got it glowing and I still couldn't get it out. I don't work for the same company any more, so now I'm even farther away from the guy I had do the exhaust.

 

OK I hear you 91RS.

At the end of they day I would have been way ahead just buying a GT500 and put on pulley/tune/slicks...... but I wanted something different... and you just don't see mod'd benz's around much.... and certainly not a pleabian clk ..

My fuel system is the stock fuel inj, fuel press reg, DC-DC inverter, in tank fuel pump mods by kleemann...... working good on this end with good AFR year around.

GL!

 

I wanted something different as well but I just wish I had known what I know now before I started because, to me, it wasn't worth the money in the end even though I do have a cool car that is pretty quick. I just know I would have been just as happy with a Corvette or CTS-V (one of which will be my next car after the C55 and/or the Trailblazer go). An AMG was kind of my "realistic" dream car but I wish I could have afforded one of the factory SC cars even though I much prefer the simplicity and size of the C.

I'm not sure why Kleemann changed from the DC-DC inverter setup, it seems to be the best system as far as reliability goes. What did they do to your in-take fuel pump? I don't recall ever seeing anything about that. Luckily, the eBay seller I bought my Bosch pump from is taking care of me and replacing the pump, so I'm mailing that off tomorrow. I really would feel better converting it over to the W210 pump they currently use, but it costs twice as much as I paid for the replacement Bosch pump I found on eBay. I would also love to also replace all my hoses with stainless steel ones, Cory sent me some 5/16" stainless line that came from Denmark (because it does NOT exist in the US), but I can't find a single company in my area that will crimp it for me. No one will touch brake or fuel lines. So I'm still using rubber hose, but this Goodyear hose has been trouble free so far. The max working pressure is 100PSI and it hits 110PSI or so under WOT though, max burst pressure is a lot higher than that though.

 

A motorcycle custom shop my do that for you...they deal with ss brake lines all the time!

and i didnt realize the eaton SC wasn't as potent as the autorotor...although to be honest i dont know the difference between the two, lol

 

Brandon said they have plenty of shops up in Colorado that are willing to crimp the lines, so I could measure what I need and send it all to them and they'd have it crimped and send it back if I wanted. I've been using the single-eared squeeze clamp with the rubber hoses I'm using now and it's been fine so far. Much more clamping force than a worm gear type clamp.

The difference between the Eaton and the Autorotor is in the efficiency. The Autorotor is much more efficient, meaning it doesn't make nearly as much heat. Which can melt pistons. That's why the Eaton can't run any more than 5-6 PSI safely without going into the bottom end and heads to change the compression ratio. There's nothing really wrong with the Eaton, Ford has used Eatons for years. My car still ran a 12.2 @ 112, I just expected/wanted more than that.

 

I assume Kleeman used to use an autorotor since when ever someone seems to be selling them they advertise its the Eaton version. Why'd they stop?

 

just out of curiosity why'd you go with this system vice an oem set up?

 

Autorotor went out of business.

 

There is a lot more involved in going with the AMG supercharger setup as far as I know.

 

91 - just be patient.... the weistec system will get sorted for us N/A guys.... and be a BEAST!

I would just work the bugs out of your ride..... and njoy. You already sunk the major change into it.... drive the wheels off.! That's what I'm going to do.

Low 12's is nothing to sneeze at. I'm assuming on street tires and full wgt...... with sticky tires and wgt reduction, and perhaps a better Heat Exch... you should break 11's.

My fuel system has fuel pump in gas tank..... mod'd by kleemann.... and fmu under rear of car, and DC-DC inverter....... MAS voltage clamp....... stock injectors... all pretty simple.

I'm running 8 - 9 psi of boost with my eaton setup with ported heads...... runs good for me as daily driver.

I have to admit I really started to have fun with this car AFTER the koni yellows, HR springs HR sways..... and Big brake kit........ st line is fun.... but that's what mustangs are for all IMHO!

 

I can guarantee you I will not be buying another supercharger!

Time was full weight, but on taller-than-stock Mickey Thompsons.

I had suspension and brakes before I did the supercharger.

 

i was thinking about running a oem SC since I'm quite sure I can get all the parts for cheaper since more are around that are used or go with a rear mounted turbo or a twin turbo for the amount i would spend on a new SC system

 

Hooleyboy (owner of MBH) had Dynocomp install an OEM SC in this C55. It ran very fast (11 second quarter mile) but it was still very inconvenient. You can still find his posts here. As for a turbo kit. Lots of guys toyed with that idea including me but it was just not feasible/practical.

I had the Kleemann autorotor and tried to increase the boost to 11-12 psi. I ran without a problem (installed by Dynocomp) until the SC let go with too much tension on the nose shaft.

I hope Weistec can be successful with the first C55 with a 3 litre twin-screw so that my prototype can be released as a kit for commercial sales in another month or so at around $8K.

 

Amgsc- Watching your progress closely. Gl!!!

 

Your belt wrap kit may have caused too much tension and therefore damage. Do some research on a autorotor 2.2L and you will see they are capable of way more power than you were making.

Weistec uses a Whipple supercharger and they do not produce a 3L. It is 2.9L.

 

I just used the same terminology that Weistec uses. MB names our models AMG 55s but we all know it's a 5.439 litre. The Autorotor/Kenne Bell SCs are sized in even increments (1.8, 2.0, 2.2, 2.4, 2.6, 2.8) while the Lyshom/Whipples run in odd increments (1.9, 2.1, 2.3, 2.7, 2.9). Autorotors have 4 male/6 femaie while Lysholm have 3 male/5 female lobes.

 

This still for sale if so pm me so we can talk