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Installed 12 volt accessory socket in EQS SUV center console
When the Goodyear Eagle Touring RunOnFlat tires on my EQS SUV need to be replaced I intend to change tires to non-runflats in the hopes of improving ride comfort as well as the treadwear rating. If some 20" EQS SUV wheels show up on eBay at a reasonable price I would consider swapping out the 21" tires for more reasonably priced 20" tires. MB recommends getting its Tirefit Kit when changing from runflats to regular tires. They don't address the lack of a 12 volt accessory socket within reach of the front tires in EQS SUVs equipped with runflats from the factory.
I decided to install a 12v socket in the center console. I used a Mercedes-Benz socket, part number 000-820-48-05. This socket is a "snap-in" socket that is used in quite a few MB models. I would have preferred to use a socket that is held in place with a large plastic nut, but there wasn't enough space to easily install that type.
I studied the three fuse panels I was able to access and decided to tap into the one under the cargo compartment since this is where the accessory socket fuses are located with an "ignition" switched power supply. I ran a 14 awg cable along the bottom edge of the carpeted side panel under the trim along the passenger side doors and up the passenger side front doorway trim. I popped off the dashboard side panel and routed the cable under the glove compartment towards the center console. I removed the tray below the console, the carpeted panel with USB C ports, the plastic trim panel below the sliding console door, the trim piece in front of the console lid doors, and the lid assembly. I routed the positive and ground cables through the console bridge to the front edge of the large console compartment.
I mounted the 12v socket off center on the face of the front wall of the lid assembly. Using the MB socket gives the installation an OEM look. I may never use this socket, but if it's ever needed it will be available. If there is any interest in this project from other forum members I will add more details to this thread.
nice job I may have to do the same so I can power the radar detector. I used it when we do our road trips up north.
For a radar detector it would be more convenient to mount the socket in the cup holder compartment. I considered doing this, but it would interfere with the cup holder and as I recall there was not has much space available on the driver side of the console where more cables were located.
Here are some pictures showing the steps I took to make the hole in the front wall of the lid assembly.
1) Mark the location of the hole on the back side of the front wall of the lid. It should be 26.5mm from the lower edge and 42.0mm from the side. Mounting the socket lower will interfere with the top edge of the USB C panel.
2) I marked the hole with an awl and drilled a small 3/32" pilot hole from the back side and then enlarged it to 1/4" since that is the size of the pilot drill on the hole saw.
3) Use a small ratchet wrench with a 1-1/8" hole saw to enlarge the hole from the face of the lid opening. I did all of the drilling by hand to avoid any accidents with a power drill. It takes 5 to 10 minutes to make the larger hole.
The snap-in socket can only be installed once. I made the mistake of snapping it together to understand how it works and I damaged it trying to take it apart. I ended up getting a second socket. I also purchased a W211 socket held in place with a large plastic nut. It came with a plug connector and short length of cable which I used with the snap-in socket. The W211 socket would have worked, but would require cutting away part of the top edge of the USB C panel.
nice job I may have to do the same so I can power the radar detector. I used it when we do our road trips up north.
I took a closer look at the console today. I think it is definitely possible to install the snap-in 12v socket in the back wall of the cup holder compartment favoring the driver side. I regret not checking this more carefully before since this would be a more convenient place to plug in an accessory since it does not require keeping the console lid doors open. There is a gusset on the back side of the panel close to where the 1-1/8" hole would have to be drilled. But if you take your time locating the center hole you should be able to avoid the gusset.
You will have to remove the trim in front of the lid and the lid assembly to run the wires and attach them to the socket.
Off topic: My EQS SUV 580 is on order and I was wondering if there's a 12 volt socket in the trunk area?
Yes, all of the EQS SUVs have at least one 12 volt socket on the driver side of the hatch opening. Some of the SUVs have a second socket in the passenger footwell. If you order RunFlat tires you probably won't get the passenger footwell socket.
I am just wondering why you went through the hassle of installing while there are products like these on Amazon that convert USB-C to 12v socket. Moreover, the blue USB-Cs in the EQS are 100 watts, so enough power for most in-car devices.
Because those devices are not rated to handle a small portable air compressor. The referenced adapter has a max output rating of 1A. A compressor will draw 5 or more amps. One of the bullet items in the description reads as follows: Do not support vehicle vacuum cleaner, vehicle air pumping machine, portable tire inflator, Small portable tire compressor and other large current devices.
Yes, all of the EQS SUVs have at least one 12 volt socket on the driver side of the hatch opening. Some of the SUVs have a second socket in the passenger footwell. If you order RunFlat tires you probably won't get the passenger footwell socket.
Is that 12v socket switched power? I'm thinking with all the OTA electronics, none of the systems truely ever turn off when ignition is off.
Is that 12v socket switched power? I'm thinking with all the OTA electronics, none of the systems truely ever turn off when ignition is off.
Since I tapped into the fuse for the 12v socket on the driver side of cargo door frame, the 12v socket that I installed in the console is switched on when the car is turned on. I believe the power stays on for 30 minutes after the car is turned off.
Nice work @LAZARU5 !! Super clean and well thought out.
Since your post is the only resource I can find for modifying the EQS I've got a couple questions if you maybe can help?
I'm looking to do exactly what you did, though to install a weBoost Drive Reach mobile amplifier, and in the trunk. The draw on this device says 12v/1.8A DC/DC.
Questions:
Do you have any images of the fuse work you did for this?
Were any steps taken for power concerns when doing the work? Deadly afraid of causing some short or scramble to any vehicle compute.
Nice work @LAZARU5 !! Super clean and well thought out.
Since your post is the only resource I can find for modifying the EQS I've got a couple questions if you maybe can help?
I'm looking to do exactly what you did, though to install a weBoost Drive Reach mobile amplifier, and in the trunk. The draw on this device says 12v/1.8A DC/DC.
Questions:
Do you have any images of the fuse work you did for this?
Were any steps taken for power concerns when doing the work? Deadly afraid of causing some short or scramble to any vehicle compute.
Oh that's great! Thank you for the fantastic pics too.
Have you run many/any DC accessories through that circuit since you installed it?
I installed the 12v accessory socket in the console in order to use a 12v compressor in case I had flat front tire with the non-runflats I installed after the factory runflats wore out. I have not really used the socket much. I regret not making the extra effort to install the accessory socket in the cup holder compartment. That would have made the socket more accessible for use while driving.
BTW, make sure you orient the Accele Electronics fuse tap correctly. It will provide power either way it is installed, but will only protect the circuit if installed the way shown in the photo in the thread I referenced.
01-24-2023, 02:12 PM
