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Disappointing to see a 10% range reduction after 10 months of ownership.
I have charged to 100% on fewer than 5 locations and most of the time it is slow charged on L1, which is better for the batteries.
514km was in summer with the stock tires, so maybe that’s it; but my driving style has not changed.
464km now / 514km 10 months ago, when 1 month old
It could be interesting to let the car sit overnight with <20% charge. This forces the Battery Management System to reset. And, in my experience, the estimated range will jump back to the higher default number again...until the algorithm tracks and integrates your subsequent driving style, which generally produces lower range estimates.
2012 C63;1971 280SE 3.5(Sold);2023 EQS 450 SUV 4 Matic (Wife's)
Our 2023 is on the L2 charger at home showing 5.7 kW and a 80% range of ~ 441 km. I think you will see your range increase as temperatures warm up depending on your driving style and other factors (tire mileage and condition etc.)
Report back at the same time of the year as when you were seeing the 10% higher range.
^This. Because EVs are so efficient, a small change can make a noticeable difference in range.
In particular, are you sure that your tires are inflated to the same pressure that they were when you saw the higher range? If the tire pressure has gone down since then, then that can make a big difference to the range.
We have a Kia Niro EV and last year Recurrent was scoring it a 103. Now it's score is like 93. We did have an issue with the BCMS that was replaced (we were getting a fault that would limit the max allowable charge percent to 80%). So it is possible that something has changed.
The car's rated range is 239 miles. Last year I would see a predicted range of up to 300 miles (this is a no HVAC number) and Recurrent kind of agreed with that. Recurrent is now predicting the max summer range is going to be 267. This morning's 100% charge was predicting 281 miles which is better than a couple of weeks ago at 260. So I am hopeful that it will get back to the 300 number this summer.
The other day we were driving to my MIL's on the highway doing around 65 MPH with no HVAC our rate of consumption would have yielded 300 miles. After we go to my MIL's, which is a 180 mile trip, I typically compute the 100% battery capacity using, the miles traveled, average rate of consumption and the battery percentage consumed. There are certainly opportunities for error in that calculation but in general I am computing the rated battery capacity. Would suggest that the OP consider doing a similar calculation.
Lastly, I also charge using a level one charger. While it is true that the energy rate is low so that is easy easy on the battery compared to DC fast charging, the thing that concerns me about that approach is that in order to get a high charge level you are sitting at a high charge for an extended period so it actually might be worse for the battery than using a L2 charger and charging more at the last minute.
Our 2023 is on the L2 charger at home showing 5.7 kW and a 80% range of ~ 441 km. I think you will see your range increase as temperatures warm up depending on your driving style and other factors (tire mileage and condition etc.)
Hope so. It’s still colder now than it was when the car was new.
^This. Because EVs are so efficient, a small change can make a noticeable difference in range.
In particular, are you sure that your tires are inflated to the same pressure that they were when you saw the higher range? If the tire pressure has gone down since then, then that can make a big difference to the range.
Actually the tires were under-inflated when the car was new. It’s not that easy to inflate them to the recommended pressure or dealers don’t know that the pressures are considerably higher.
Lastly, I also charge using a level one charger. While it is true that the energy rate is low so that is easy easy on the battery compared to DC fast charging, the thing that concerns me about that approach is that in order to get a high charge level you are sitting at a high charge for an extended period so it actually might be worse for the battery than using a L2 charger and charging more at the last minute.
Not in my case because the battery is never at a high state of charge unless I’m going on a long trip. It never gets fully charged on the L1, not even close.
Not in my case because the battery is never at a high state of charge unless I’m going on a long trip. It never gets fully charged on the L1, not even close.
As others have mentioned, the guess-o-meter as we called it over at the Jaguar forum is not super accurate, and variable based on all sorts of things. Go into you app, go to data, and see how your vehicle is doing miles/kw. You will be able to compare current trips to your long term average. My wife got home from the Chicago area a couple days back. All highway driving on a nice day at 75mph yielded her 3.1 miles/kw...gives you a place to start comparing. A real head scratcher to me is my square shaped EQB 300 is our most efficient EQ car, with by far the highest short term and long term average.
The range is getting better. It’s really just the “guess-o-meter” range indicator which looks only backward. It does not take into account where you are driving, nor what drive mode you are in, which is disappointing. Is it different on a Tesla, for example?
If you enter a destination that requires a long highway drive, it should adjust range accordingly. It does not.
If you switch to Sport drive mode from Comfort or Eco, it does not adjust range.
The range is really only calculated by your past consumption.
The range is getting better. It’s really just the “guess-o-meter” range indicator which looks only backward. It does not take into account where you are driving, nor what drive mode you are in, which is disappointing. Is it different on a Tesla, for example?
If you enter a destination that requires a long highway drive, it should adjust range accordingly. It does not.
If you switch to Sport drive mode from Comfort or Eco, it does not adjust range.
The range is really only calculated by your past consumption.
It’s not that easy to inflate them to the recommended pressure
I agree. The manual states that the pressure readings should be taken while the tires are "cold" -- or at least not having been driven for more than about one km.
I have no gas station/commercial air location near me. The 12v air pump takes forever and is a nuisance to use.
This is my "workaround" strategy: I fill my tires roughly 10% above my target pressure at a commercial air pump about 5 km from where I live.
The next day, before driving the car anywhere, I use my tire gauge and carefully let air out of the tires until I reach my target pressure.
Is there a possibility of some switch, setting, or electric utility that is drawing more discharge now, then when you were getting 10% more range?
When I am in doubt I reset all odometers, reset tyre pressure, make sure tyre type on mbux is correct one to let the car forget what it has learned Did this 2 time g-meter increased, its starts again 99kwh/100km and takes its time to calibrate again. Most of time my g-meter prediction not reliable when I switch from highway to city driving without route guide or the temp change, especially short trips 10-20 km with higher consumption are the ones I dont like when it comes to g-meter. If I wouldnt do probably it would come to its senses but in a longer period that I know myself I will play around with gadgets to speed up correct estimation (i.e. turn off AC etc.) otherwise
Originally Posted by ScottC2
I agree. The manual states that the pressure readings should be taken while the tires are "cold" -- or at least not having been driven for more than about one km.
I have no gas station/commercial air location near me. The 12v air pump takes forever and is a nuisance to use.
This is my "workaround" strategy: I fill my tires roughly 10% above my target pressure at a commercial air pump about 5 km from where I live.
The next day, before driving the car anywhere, I use my tire gauge and carefully let air out of the tires until I reach my target pressure.
@ScottC2 I use thise one, its battery is good for 5-6 full cycle update, so I can carry in the car, it takes 2-3 min. per tye, quite loud so not the neighbors favorite morning alarm, I mostly use during charging the car, can be used for other things, doesnt deflate but if you unscrew cable connecting on the compressor side it releases air still you can monitor but not fully reliable for deflation sometimes turn off itself.
The EQB is around 1000 lbs lighter than the EQS with I'm guessing smaller wheels.
What kind of mpkWh are you getting with the EQB300?
Yes, you are correct about the weight and it has 19 inch wheels vs. 20 and 21 for our other EQS. The long term average is 3.1/kwh. I've been seeing up to almost 4 since it's been warm. The long term average of the 2022 EQS is 2.5 and 2023 2.6. I should really sell the EQB, but it is such a likable car, so handy and easy to drive.
I agree. The manual states that the pressure readings should be taken while the tires are "cold" -- or at least not having been driven for more than about one km.
I have no gas station/commercial air location near me. The 12v air pump takes forever and is a nuisance to use.
This is my "workaround" strategy: I fill my tires roughly 10% above my target pressure at a commercial air pump about 5 km from where I live.
The next day, before driving the car anywhere, I use my tire gauge and carefully let air out of the tires until I reach my target pressure.
I have a 12V air pump that works pretty well, but it’s not that fast. I’ll try to find the make and model, but I got it on Amazon.
Is there a possibility of some switch, setting, or electric utility that is drawing more discharge now, then when you were getting 10% more range?
No, it’s due to the historical consumption during winter, which is about 2X what it is in summer.
And due to the fact that the range estimator does not take the future into account. It does not take the navigation route into account at all, nor the drive mode, nor the climate or other settings. It simply looks backward at the historical consumption!
I have a 12V air pump that works pretty well, but it’s not that fast. I’ll try to find the make and model, but I got it on Amazon.
I have two 12v air pumps. The point I was trying to make in my post above is that I find it much easier to slightly over-fill at a near-by commercial location and then let an appropriate amount of air out of each tire to get to the target pressure (the next day when the tires are cool).
https://www.mbusa.com/en/owners/manu...c-intelligence
I find the battery % projections for arrival at charging stops and destinations to be very accurate. Obviously, it knows the km and estimated consumption rates to provide these %'s. According to the link above, Electric Intelligence takes a lot of variables into account -- and after driving with Electric Intelligence for nearly two years, the accuracy leads me to believe it really does take all of these variables into account.
The 12v air pump takes forever and is a nuisance to use.
Rather than using the 12V pump that came with the car (I find that this can only barely reach my left rear wheel when plugged in), I carry around one of these https://slime.com/collections/tire-i...-tire-inflator portable inflators. It's a lot more convenient (and can be recharged from one of the USB-C outlets in my EQS).
Cordless pump is the way to go. Mine was like $30 on Amazon, and works great. So much easier than my last 30 years stringing an electrical cord from an always inconveniently placed outlet.
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Did this 2 time g-meter increased, its starts again 99kwh/100km and takes its time to calibrate again. Most of time my g-meter prediction not reliable when I switch from highway to city driving without route guide or the temp change, especially short trips 10-20 km with higher consumption are the ones I dont like when it comes to g-meter. If I wouldnt do probably it would come to its senses but in a longer period that I know myself I will play around with gadgets to speed up correct estimation (i.e. turn off AC etc.) otherwise
