Found some rust on the top of the rear door, where the weather stripping meets the sheet metal. It ran much of the top of the door, though it was very light and superficial. I saturated the area with B’laster Surface Shield and used my finger to rub it on the underside of the metal (it bends at a 90 degree angle from vertical to horizontal where at the top)

 

Do you guys think something like "CorrosionX Corrosion Technologies 90104 Heavy Duty" ( ) applied under the windshield weatherstripping would do the trick? I want to be able to drive my new (to me) G550 in the rain...

 

I've never heard of that brand though it seems to have good reviews. Anything formulated for marine anti-corrosion applications (with good reviews) should work fine for automotive applications.

Just make sure that you can use the can with a thin aerosol straw. Fill the cavity behind the stripping with enough grease so that it starts to seep through the stripping (ensuring that the cavity is completely filled. Use more grease than you think is necessary.

 

Will do. I appreciate the advice! Did you apply it on every side of the windshield or just the bottom half?

 

I applied it around the entire perimeter, though I sprayed more on the sides and bottom than on the top.

 

I could use some advice... I used a 3 foot house to spray Berkebile PFC (because I read that it's safest on rubber) and it worked perfectly. Thank you for that suggestion. But when I checked on it this morning, the weather stripping that was sitting perfectly flush on the windshield is now lifted up. I think the oil hardened overnight and pushed it up. Did that happen on yours? I'm going to run a towel around the perimeter and try to remove the excess so it sits flat again, but I'm afraid I messed this whole thing up.

 

That's interesting. I've sprayed so much B'Laster Surface shield into the window cavities that is actually seeps out of the rubber stripping. I've never seen this before.

 

Looks like swelling of the rubber from absorbing and reacting to petroleum distillates in the chemical you sprayed. I wonder if they switched to a different type of rubber for the 2016+ windshield gaskets. (There are many different types of rubber with different properties.) I think if you heat it up by parking it out in the direct sun for several consecutive 98 degree Texas days it'll probably off-gas the petroleum distillates and go back to normal (or close to it). I wouldn't try a heat gun due to the risk of cracking the windshield. Maybe if you cover the glass with several layers of cardboard and veru slowly heat up the rubber... but again it's extremely risky whenever you change the temperature of one section of glass and not the rest, or when you change the temperature too quickly.

 

Is B'Laster pretty low viscosity? Maybe I should have gone that route...

 

Dang, I hope I didn't mess this up. I just got this thing. It spent its whole life in Houston and didn't have any rust at all, but I wanted it be safe since I live in a state that uses salt on the roads.

I just wiped off the rubber really well, and although it still doesn't sit flat, it is looking a little better. Maybe sitting overnight will help regain its shape. Also wondering if maybe these rubber pieces come with adhesive on the back from the factory since back of the rubber on the top part of the windshield feels kind of sticky underneath. Maybe I could apply some weak adhesive to the corner...

What product did you use to do this?

 

B'Laster surface shield.

 

I've been reading auto glass installer forums and I guess they typically recommend applying a water seal compound between the gasket and the paint for a windshield like these. Apparently that's how they come from the factory, but maybe wears off over time. I wonder if re-applying some would help prevent the rust.

 

Update, if anyone cares: After wiping it down and letting it sit overnight, it's 100% back to normal. I guess it just needs some time to adjust itself back into position. It rained today and it looks water didn't even get in, as far as I can tell.

 

Water probably got in but as long as there is a water repelling barrier between the metal and the water, you should be okay. Even better if it has anti corrosive chemicals in the oil.

 

Well I'm buying a 2013 G63 (my first G)and want to try and protect it the best I can. I'm thinking about using ACF-50 but also Corrosion block. Both are by the same company. They come in aerosol cans, liquid spray bottles, and you can even spray it using a spray gun with different tips. Corrosion block also is available in a grease.

Here is some details on Corrosion Block: https://www.nocorrosion.com/

Here are the product offerings from Lear Chemicals: https://learchem.com/products/acf-50.html

Looks to be safe on rubbers. Now I just need to locate all the pain points. Is there a list and pics of all the locations

 

It is nice that there are several different application methods. The only drawback with B’laster is that the spray nozzle is horrible. Most aerosol straws don’t really fit into it.

As for pain points, figure on spraying the entire chassis. You’ll want to remove the bolts that holt the running boards to the body (you can remove one at a time so you don’t need to take the boards off) to access the cavities underneath the door sills. Spray in the drain holes at the bottom of all the doors. Get the entire windscreen surround. Use a thick grease (like Lucas red and tacky) to treat the sunroof surround (get underneath the sheet metal that surrounds the moonroof). The rear door seal is notorious for trapping water and corroding. Slowly pry it back and grease all of it, the top in particular. The rear door hinges also like to rust. You can access the backside of these hinges by removing the rear interior panel. I’m on the west coast right now but when I get back home I’ll make a quick video demonstrating how to remove the panel.

 

Make sure any oil you use isn’t flammable and isn’t electrically conductive. Most products that are used for such applications aren’t but make sure anyways. Drench every area you treat. It’s always better to use too much than not enough.

 

Finally, if you’re able to keep in garaged, do so. Having a dehumidifier and fans goes a long way to help prevent future rust.

 

Thanks for all the info. I think I'm going to use a combination of acf-50 and corrosion block including the grease for the bolts and the other areas you mentioned that should be greased. The Corrosion block was created for marine equipment and salt water gear.

If you ever get around to the video, that would be extremely helpful and other areas I should be spraying. I'll also share my experience with these products once I get the G.

 

Hey guys, I lifted the windshield gasket with my fingernail this morning and a bunch of water dripped out all along the bottom perimeter. It rains like every day here in Miami, so I'm afraid there is going to be water in there permanently unless I do something about it. Would it be a dumb idea to put a little drain stent under the gasket so water can drain out overnight at least?

 

I would be on board for a combined effort to have mercedes acknowledged the rust issues. I have owned multiple G wagons and have been around multiple more ranging from 2002- 2018 and they all rust the same way. Some more then others. I have 50k miles on my current one and here comes the rust....has maybe seen 90 days of snow.

 

Rust is back - this time on the rear driver side door sill.


I don't know how I just caught it but it is still early enough along that I can probably stop it from spreading with regular surface application of grease. I might need to get up underneath again and saturate the sills with Surface Shield. Son of a *****.

 

Noted my first two rust issues..... ugh - on on the seam on pass rear QP and a chip/bubble on the door hinge.




Prepping for next weekend's clean, wax and will check seal and other stuff....

 

I'm looking at this car. Should I be concerned with the amount of rust on the windshield? I'm not sure if this is a reasonable amount, or more of a run away from this car amount? If it's 2-3k to fix, fine. If it's 5k+, I think I'd pass. I just have no clue of the situation I guess. Can anyone gauge from these pics if this is a car I should completely avoid?

 

The windscreen will have to come off, which always cracks the windscreen so figure on having to replace that too. Depending on how deep the rust goes, it could either require sanding and repainting or plasma cutting the rusted area and replacing it with fresh sheet metal.

My guess is that you're looking at $4k.