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Do Door speakers, Horn and Door sills share same fuse?
Both My driver side Front and Rear speakers have no sound coming through them. And both my driver side Front and Rear door sills are not illuminating. Both speakers and sills on passenger side work fine. Horn is also not blowing when pressed.
I think i might have shorted a fuse while taking off the steering wheel airbag to take a picture of the steering column (Am having a custom steering wheel built in Latvia).
Been searching for days with no luck. Looking for the fuse diagram and location for 2013 G63.Found videos on 2002-2007 fuse diagram and locations but when I popped the panel on side of the dash towards the left of the steering wheel I don't see any fuses.
Does anyone have any idea if they all work with same fuse? Can someone please post the fuse diagram if they have it?
I might as well start with checking the fuses before trying to take these parts off.
I'm not sure about the fuse locations (I would like to know myself), but I do know that all audio channels (LF, RF, LR, RR, & sub)originate from the same source, so if any of the audio channels are working, the audio issue is not a fuse. Have you checked the balance/fader settings in your head unit?
Also, it is unlikely that the horn and the door sills share a common fuse because the door sills require a power source that is "hot" all the time while the horn is switched circuit with the ignition (via the front SAM).
As for the horn, did you make sure that you re-connected everything inside the steering wheel when you put it back together?
Lastly, you shouldn't work with the air bag with the battery connected so as to prevent accidental deployment and/or setting controller error codes. Always disconnect the battery for at least 15 minutes (to allow for the internal capacitors in the controller to discharge) before working on one (an you won't blow any fuses either). .
I'm not sure about the fuse locations (I would like to know myself), but I do know that all audio channels (LF, RF, LR, RR, & sub)originate from the same source, so if any of the audio channels are working, the audio issue is not a fuse. Have you checked the balance/fader settings in your head unit?
Also, it is unlikely that the horn and the door sills share a common fuse because the door sills require a power source that is "hot" all the time while the horn is switched circuit with the ignition (via the front SAM).
As for the horn, did you make sure that you re-connected everything inside the steering wheel when you put it back together?
Lastly, you shouldn't work with the air bag with the battery connected so as to prevent accidental deployment and/or setting controller error codes. Always disconnect the battery for at least 15 minutes (to allow for the internal capacitors in the controller to discharge) before working on one (an you won't blow any fuses either). .
Thanks
I just went back and realized its not just the speakers in door. The driver side front speaker on top of the dash is also not working. Meaning its ALL 3 driver side speakers that are not working. I doubt it is the speakers at this point. I used the balance/Fader and no sound from them. The door sills probably have nothing to door with the speakers. Might be a coincidence. But its weird that both sills on driver side not working. Hence why i assumed there was connection between the speakers and door sills.
Am thinking the guys who installed my android screen might have messed something. I just cant remember if the speakers and sills worked properly before the install so i don't want to pass blame right away.
As for the horn, I didn't take out the airbag completely. I didn't unplug it. I just released the springs and held it so i can take a pic for required for my build, When i plugged it back It went off like an alarm and when it finally stopped it wouldn't sound anymore. Once i step out in a few minutes, i will turn on the Audible Horn Lock sound feature to see if the horn sounds when i lock the car. Except if there is a separate horn for that sound, that should indicate if my horn is blown or not and help narrow down the issue.
Thanks
Am thinking the guys who installed my android screen might have messed something. I just cant remember if the speakers and sills worked properly before the install so i don't want to pass blame right away.
.
Didn't know had had an aftermarket setup. Yes, I would bet that they most likely didn't get the install quite right.
Given how Unsolved mysteries bother me, I decided to troubleshoot by swapping the working door sill from passenger side to that on driver side.
Didn’t even have to get that far.
as I removed the door sill that wasn’t working , I noticed corrosion around the connectors. Turns out the wires were corpses and connection Wasn't being made.
cut off the connectors, joined the wires together and voila it lit up. Did the same for the other sill that wasn’t working since I noticed corrosion at the connector too. Success again.
will look for a way to connect the wires properly tomorrow.
Am happy one problem is solved.
Now to look into the driver side speakers that are not making any sound.
Just an update since i hate when people ask for help on forums and never bOther to update others who might benefit when a solution is found.
The audio issue ended up being that my amp was defective. I sourced and installed an interchangeable amp from a GL (E , C, GLA and some other models also share same amp) and voila the sound now works from all speakers.
however, am Not sure if it’s my mind playing tricks on me or if my ears just have to adjust to the out front all speakers but it sounds noticeably lower compared to when only my passenger side speakers was working.
do the interchangeable amps with these cars have different power output?
For the 2 wire connector, I have used these in the past for speaker and power connections and they work well, look good, and hold securely. You do have to be a little bit careful soldering them though as if you give it too much heat, the plastic connector can melt. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
As for the replacement amp, are you sure it is compatible with the G sound system? The main reason why I ask is because the G speaker configuration is very interesting/unique. I have not seen anything like it before and had a lot of difficulty figuring the system out when I replaced the speakers and designed a custom amp setup. The front door speakers are wired to the tweeters. Then both L and R tweeters are wired to the center speaker. The rear door speakers work together with the bench sub to create a 'simulated sub', and the rear cargo speakers are just normal. No idea if this is normal for this era MB models but seems pretty odd to me.
I have not been able to find any information on the total power output of the OE G-Class sound system and I searched for that info for a long time. HK and MB also do not have this information through their customer service portals. Also what are the details of your aftermarket head unit setup? This may be different than the OE system in terms of system volume.
I plugged the old def3ctive amp back in and can confirm that the quality of my defective amp (with only passenger side speakers working) is louder, clearer and much better than that of the new amp (with all four speakers working).
Now am not sure if the tuning of the W463 amp and speakers is different even though the interchangeable amp works albeit with less quality audio.
Luckily i didn't spend a lot on the new amp. I will find an exact W463 amp and see if that fixes it all. Or maybe the interchangeable amp needs to be reset or fine-tuned to match the W463 speakers...Not sure at this point if thats even a thing.
Last edited by just1time; Aug 17, 2020 at 10:16 PM.
Did you check all 9+ speakers to check that the amp is powering everything? 3 dash speakers, front door speakers, rear door speakers, rear bench subwoofer, and 2 rear cargo speakers. That is how many speakers in my 2005 but I think the newer models are slightly different.
I have the OE amp from my 2005 but I would guess the amps are not the same between my earlier and your later G.
Did you check all 9+ speakers to check that the amp is powering everything? 3 dash speakers, front door speakers, rear door speakers, rear bench subwoofer, and 2 rear cargo speakers. That is how many speakers in my 2005 but I think the newer models are slightly different.
I have the OE amp from my 2005 but I would guess the amps are not the same between my earlier and your later G.
Yea, all speakers work now. But the quality is not up to par. The voices are not crisp. and the sound sure not equalized. The sound quality from the original amp (even with only two speakers working) blows it away. Am leaning towards getting another amp and thinking the new one might be defective since its is being said everyone online that interchangeable Benz amps should work like normal. Except if am missing something with regards to the power output of the two amps.
Is there a way to reset factory amps?
Last edited by just1time; Aug 17, 2020 at 10:24 PM.
With the later model MBs each one has a custom equalization profile (G, GL, ML ect.). I'm not sure if the EQ profile is stored in the head unit or in the amplifier for a 2013 G. If is in the amp, it will need to be "adapted" for the correct profile. If you still have access to the original COMAND system you can go into the Engineering menu and see which EQ profile is in use.
With the later model MBs each one has a custom equalization profile (G, GL, ML ect.). I'm not sure if the EQ profile is stored in the head unit or in the amplifier for a 2013 G. If is in the amp, it will need to be "adapted" for the correct profile. If you still have access to the original COMAND system you can go into the Engineering menu and see which EQ profile is in use.
Makes sense. I still have the original head unit. But even with my android head unit I can switch the interphase to use the original Benz profile. So if you can guide me to the engineering menu I can check. Or if someone on here can help me check with theirs , I would be very grateful.
If it is the case that it’s in the amp and has to be adapted, am guessing that would be with MB star?
meant to exhaust these options before proceeding to source another amp uneccessarily.
On the COMAND unit you would press the "end call", "#" and "1" keys for about 10 seconds and the unit will go into engineering mode. Scroll through the menus and look for the cabin configuration under the sound audio parameter settings. Again, I'm not sure if the info is contained in the head unit or the amplifier unit. Do not clear the info or you may brick your system. Older COMAND units has several profiles stored. Also, I'm not sure if this can be done from one of the Android units, even in MB mode.
If you can do it, I would be curious to see what you find. If the cabin/chassis is set as the donor car, then the info is stored in the amp and would an SD system to adapt.
Got home and went straight to check. I was able to get into the engineering mode on the android (the intricate build of this thing is pretty impressive).
Scrolled to the 7.8 in audio parameter and Everything looks just like yours. Vehicle/Cabine shows 463 W.
I went to the next parameter...7.9 which is EQ parameter and found it to be empty. Pics below. Does that mean the amp is currently adapted to Its original car and needs to be adapted to be adapted to W463?
I would appreciate greatly if someone can check and post a pic of their 7.9 parameter. Would like to see if it’s empty like mine as in my pic below or not. Would give more insight to the situation. And let me know whether I need SD to update the 7.9 EQ parameter to w463. That might be the solution to my issue.
Thanks in advance
Last edited by just1time; Aug 19, 2020 at 12:50 AM.
My EQ setting setting is also empty and my system is working. To me, that either means there is an issue with the replacement amp or there is still an adaptation setting for the amp that does not show up on the Engineering menu. I am still leaning toward the latter because in general, with an amplifier, a channel either works or it doesn't (so to have some channels work but have bad EQ would be unusual) and the H-K MB amplifier has a TI DSP processor in it to handle Digital Transmission Content Protection (DTCP) over MOST optical bus (for the paranoid Hollywood types). I would try checking with a friendly dealer to see how much they would charge to adapt a new amplifier and let their response tell you if it needs it.
Just an update in case anyone runs into a similar situation.
I couldn't config the new amp so i ended buying another used one on eBay. The part numbers were identical and it was from a CLS63.
Happy to say sound is up to par now.
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