As a new owner of a low mile (32k) 2014 G63 I'm doing more research on issues and mods, one of the biggest concerns is the cylinder wall scoring issue.

I came across info on disconnecting the Oil Pump Solenoid, I searched but did not find much info about it here on the G Class W463 section, I did find it mentioned in 1 thread, see below

Has anyone researched this much, or actualy done this mod on thier G63 ??

Its a big topic on the W212 board with the E63 guys ........

https://mbworld.org/forums/w212-amg/...solenoids.html

Also here is the Tech Talk section

https://mbworld.org/forums/mercedes-...es-me-cel.html

I found one thread here but no follow up


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I have done it and I posted in that thread. I find the G runs smoother with solenoid disconnected, however, coolant and oil temps are elevated. I am personally neither sold nor dissuaded. I send oil samples to Blackstone every oil change and will keep an eye on wear.

 

There is no actual proof this "mod" does anything beneficial and some possible evidence it may harm the engine (see latest 50 posts in that solenoid thread)

 

With your G63 did you get any Codes that show up in the dash ?

Thx Karl

 

many models will get a CEL or a soft code

the scoring issue is most likely inferior lining of the cylinders and less (if anything) to do about the oiling

https://mbworld.org/forums/mercedes-...ml#post8899193

 

Thanks for your input, I have a lot more reading and learning to do on these G63's

As I said my main concern is around the cylinder wall scoring issues and what I can do to help prevent this. Any suggestions ?

Thx Karl

 

so far as I can tell, and I've done extensive reading and work on the M157 engine, the best mitigation seems to be a heavier oil like a 5W 50 , but be clear that this oil solenoid disconnect has no real world evidence empirically that it's preventing or improving scoring. Also do not tune your engine and change the oil every 4000-5000 miles

I maintain this sticky

https://mbworld.org/forums/w212-amg/...fixes-diy.html

 

There is no proof that this mod hurts anything...as has been drawn out for months...if the oil is hotter then my engine is cooler. I, for one am good with that. The majority of the conjecture is from "Internet Experts" who have no validated expertise on being anything more than an internet expert. For me, on my three V8 engines...it is not going to get plugged back in.

The argument is seriously as petty as a Chevy/Ford truck beer fight or even "I will NOT go to Amoco, I go to Mobil...."

 

then based on this, your opinion is as irrelevant as mine.

the OP is looking to reduce cylinder scoring risk - and as far as I have found, no great way to do this with actual proof of anything. Just the internet conjecture, including yours and mine, that you rightly identified.

cheers old man

 

BIG thanks for your input and the links, I knew the E63 guys would have more info !!!

.

 

Imo a big contributor to scoring is long oil change intervals and using the wrong spec of oil. Since this engine was created, a new standard grade of oil (SP) has been created to lessen the chances of rig and valve sludge. As well as oil, it is a requirement to warm the car as you drive until the oil temp is in range before giving it any boost. This way you will have tight clearances in the cylinders and lesser chances of blow-by that can cook on the valves and in the rings. Though these engines are not known for super dirty valves, mine were very dirty at 72k and I bought the car at 42k and did lots of oil changes (not to modern spec) but that old oil, ceratec and blow-by due to poor warmup still made my valves dirty. In that I did not want carbon dropping in the cylinder, I opted to have them cleaned recently. After few chemical cleanings in the oil as well, I no longer have the same oil issues. Most would recommend against it, but I would start using a top end GDI cleaner every 15k miles to keep the valves clean until there is more data that the newer oils work better. If you want to leant more about these oils, check out The Motor Oil Geek on YouTube. There's lots of data as to why this new SP oil is superior to SN oils in a GDI application. For weight, Id only recommend a 5/40 or 5/50 if you drive a bit harder. Almost body needs a zero weight. Regardless of my slight blow-by, I had near perfect cylinder walls when I last checked. No additives needed, just the right oil.

You will also want to verify your timing chain type, and check into check valves and tensioners if you have any noise at startup.

Peter posted the links, as he is the keeper of the organized info on multiple platforms.

Enjoy, the m157 engine is very fun. No need to tune since that is the greatest variable in having continued issues IMHO.

 

I have always changed the oil & filter every 5k miles in all of my vehicles, and I have successfully driven tuned turbo engines for many years without any issues. Is your suggestion not to tune the G63 based on experience, or is it advice on how to reduce the strain on the engine? I have recently tuned my G63 and really like how it drives but I'd be willing to remove it to protect the engine. Thanks!

 

I think you will find through searching that bore scoring is more likely with a tune. These engines do not have very strong rods and the extra boost can bend them. Others that are tuned can remark on your tuner and their reputation for mild or hot tunes. Thats why it's especially important to warm this car up. Id want to see the liners and the tops of the pistons before tuning this engine. then, depending, Id want to make sure it has no or very little oil consumption. Turbos can be reliable but we also see bore issues across all brands these days due to the spray in cylinders, which in the m157 were not the best.