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Car Electrical Dead, Battery Fully Charged

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Old 05-23-2024, 04:54 PM
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2013 E 350 Diesel Sedan, 1959 220SE
Car Electrical Dead, Battery Fully Charged

I have a 1959 220 SE that runs great and was fine when I parked it a week ago, then tried to drive it yesterday and acts like dead battery. No power at all. No dome light, headlights, etc. Removed voltage regulator and all contacts look good. I have no power to the fuse box. Do these cars have a fusible link?
Old 05-25-2024, 07:04 PM
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Did you check the starter relay?
Old 05-25-2024, 08:18 PM
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On a 65 year old car, I'd check the main battery cables and clamps first. Any corrosion around the battery terminals?
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Old 05-25-2024, 09:26 PM
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Originally Posted by streborx
On a 65 year old car, I'd check the main battery cables and clamps first. Any corrosion around the battery terminals?
A 65 year old car would be no different than a 15 year old car in that regard. I would hope that in the Vintage section, people would look at those regardless of problems or needs.
Old 05-26-2024, 08:28 AM
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Originally Posted by HBguy
A 65 year old car would be no different than a 15 year old car in that regard. I would hope that in the Vintage section, people would look at those regardless of problems or needs.
Sorry -- knowing this, then it must be your CAN bus controller.
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Old 05-26-2024, 10:43 AM
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Originally Posted by streborx
Sorry -- knowing this, then it must be your CAN bus controller.
Either CAN, or the MOST ring.

Check battery cables and pull each and every fuse to check for failed fuses.
Old 05-26-2024, 03:49 PM
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Originally Posted by HBguy
Did you check the starter relay?
I am not aware of any starter relay? Can you provide more information?
Old 05-26-2024, 03:52 PM
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Originally Posted by chassis
Either CAN, or the MOST ring.

Check battery cables and pull each and every fuse to check for failed fuses.
There is no power at the fuse box.
Old 05-26-2024, 08:37 PM
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Trace it up to the battery, where you state there is good charge. Sounds like a ground cable is loose or corroded. Time to pull out the wire brush, remove all ground points, wire brush both sides and reassemble.
Old 05-28-2024, 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by chassis
Trace it up to the battery, where you state there is good charge. Sounds like a ground cable is loose or corroded. Time to pull out the wire brush, remove all ground points, wire brush both sides and reassemble.
Yes you are probably correct that this could be a ground issue. So far I have only found 1 ground connection on the right side inner fender. Looking for information on where all the grounds are located, but I have not found any information listed. Will keep searching the car for grounds.
Old 05-29-2024, 02:52 PM
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Well I cleaned and re-connected the only ground connection I can find and it did not help. I am sure there are more ground connections but since there is no mention in the service manual I don't know where they may be?
Old 05-30-2024, 07:48 PM
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The battery ground cable should be reasonably short (maybe 12"/30 cm), and should be bolted to a chassis point near the battery. You've cleaned both the battery clamp end and the chassis lug, and ensured the electrical integrity of both connecton points(?). Have you also verified the continuity of the ground cable with an ohmmeter? There should be 0 ohms between the battery negative terminal and any chassis bolt anywhere on the vehicle's frame.

With everything above confirmed, how many cables (should be red) are connected to the battery positive terminal clamp, and what do these cables connect to?
Old 06-04-2024, 11:40 AM
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I have not checked the resistance of the ground cable yet, but it is connected to one of the top engine to transmission bolts. The positive cable connects to the starter with another group of cables going from the starter to the headlamp switch according to the schematic. I have no power at the headlight switch so I believe there is a problem in that group of cables. But cannot verify how that group is routed. It goes under the right side heater duct in the engine compartment and not sure how it goes into the passenger area. I don't want to take the heater ducting apart but may need to to trace the wires.
Old 06-04-2024, 12:49 PM
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I would check continuity next. The engine and transmission might be isolated from the chassis with elastomeric (electrically insulated) mounts, and there could be another engine to chassis grounding strap somewhere.
Old 06-05-2024, 05:51 AM
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I do think they used fusible links.
Follow positive battery cable and I bet you find some that
.
Or maybe you have some RAT Chewed wires

Does it even click when you turn the key? anything?

What is battery voltage when it is connected to the car?

It has been a long time since I was under hood of 50's benz.

Fid the oldest mechanic in town - they should be able to help.

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