The wait is over!
05-19-2007, 05:42 PM
#51
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Tom sent me an email to that effect. Your wives work together, eh? Small world.
05-19-2007, 05:53 PM
#52
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Bumper plate
I put on the stainless bumper plate this afternoon. It was very easy! About 45 minutes, start to finish. I can only unpload 5 thumbs, so here's the odd one - a picture (we've probably all seen) of the black plastic one. Full details in the next post.
Last edited by boxboss; 05-19-2007 at 06:40 PM.
05-19-2007, 06:39 PM
#53
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Stainless bumper pad is on!
First, thanks to blittle for the hard part - the first to pull the black one off. It will come off exactly as he says. I pulled up on the front right corner and kept pulling until the first pin broke. I would have been very apprehensive at this point if it were not for blittle's post. The black one has 4 plastic pins that have thin metal nuts attached. The pins will break off easily. The black one also has "L" shapes that slide under the edges of holes in the bumper. As you work from right to left, pull back on the piece - this allows the L shapes to slide out from under the holes in the bumper. I broke 3 of the 4 pins, the 4th (last on the left) slid off like the L's. Picture 1 shows the OEM part half way up, the "L" shapes, and holes in the fiberglass bumper. Picture 2 shows the holes in the bumper when the OEM is removed.
The stainless part has 4 pins that need to be removed. These are not the same as the 4 pins previously discussed. The 4 pins are on the part that wraps over the back and down. There are no holes in the bumper for these. I clipped these off with wire cutters and filed/sanded them smooth - 10 minutes max for all 4. One of these pins is shown in picture 3 - with white paper underneath for clarity.
The stainless L's are a perfect match for the holes in the bumper for the OEM part. The stainless L's look different from the OEM L's, but function the same. They fit by friction - and tightly. I put a strip of 3M mounting tape along the downward facing edge as a precaution - but this probably isn't even necessary - the clips fit into the holes very tightly. Picture 4 shows the tape and stainless L's. Put your tape (if you decide to use it) as close to the bend as you can, without going into the bend. My tape could have been closer to the bend in the part, downward in the picture.
Remove the red backing from the tape (if you use it) and place the stainless L's into the holes in the bumper. Hold the piece firmly down against the bumper - you may want a helper. I bumped the downward facing piece forward with the heel of my hand, working left to right, to get the L's to slide forward under the bumper holes. This is a lot easier when you're doing it than it sounds. The L's slid into place and I'm good to go. Finished plate is the last picture. It was actually really easy. Of course, if you want to go 100% tape you can, but there's a lot more pins and L's to remove.
BTW, I was able to retrieve the broken off metal nuts by shining a flashlight into the holes (picture 2) and using a large bamboo skewer to insert into the nut and pull it up to the edge of the bumper hole and grab it. This is easier to do than write about. You can also gain access from underneath the bumper. Be sure to do it before you put on the stainless plate so you can see light shining through the holes. Good luck!
The stainless part has 4 pins that need to be removed. These are not the same as the 4 pins previously discussed. The 4 pins are on the part that wraps over the back and down. There are no holes in the bumper for these. I clipped these off with wire cutters and filed/sanded them smooth - 10 minutes max for all 4. One of these pins is shown in picture 3 - with white paper underneath for clarity.
The stainless L's are a perfect match for the holes in the bumper for the OEM part. The stainless L's look different from the OEM L's, but function the same. They fit by friction - and tightly. I put a strip of 3M mounting tape along the downward facing edge as a precaution - but this probably isn't even necessary - the clips fit into the holes very tightly. Picture 4 shows the tape and stainless L's. Put your tape (if you decide to use it) as close to the bend as you can, without going into the bend. My tape could have been closer to the bend in the part, downward in the picture.
Remove the red backing from the tape (if you use it) and place the stainless L's into the holes in the bumper. Hold the piece firmly down against the bumper - you may want a helper. I bumped the downward facing piece forward with the heel of my hand, working left to right, to get the L's to slide forward under the bumper holes. This is a lot easier when you're doing it than it sounds. The L's slid into place and I'm good to go. Finished plate is the last picture. It was actually really easy. Of course, if you want to go 100% tape you can, but there's a lot more pins and L's to remove.
BTW, I was able to retrieve the broken off metal nuts by shining a flashlight into the holes (picture 2) and using a large bamboo skewer to insert into the nut and pull it up to the edge of the bumper hole and grab it. This is easier to do than write about. You can also gain access from underneath the bumper. Be sure to do it before you put on the stainless plate so you can see light shining through the holes. Good luck!
Last edited by boxboss; 05-19-2007 at 06:46 PM.
05-19-2007, 10:30 PM
#54
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2013 GL450 (traded for 2015 Escalade), 2012 Corvette, 2014 Ford Fusion, Previous: 2007 GL450, 2011
First, thanks to blittle for the hard part - the first to pull the black one off. It will come off exactly as he says. I pulled up on the front right corner and kept pulling until the first pin broke. I would have been very apprehensive at this point if it were not for blittle's post. The black one has 4 plastic pins that have thin metal nuts attached. The pins will break off easily. The black one also has "L" shapes that slide under the edges of holes in the bumper. As you work from right to left, pull back on the piece - this allows the L shapes to slide out from under the holes in the bumper. I broke 3 of the 4 pins, the 4th (last on the left) slid off like the L's. Picture 1 shows the OEM part half way up, the "L" shapes, and holes in the fiberglass bumper. Picture 2 shows the holes in the bumper when the OEM is removed.
The stainless part has 4 pins that need to be removed. These are not the same as the 4 pins previously discussed. The 4 pins are on the part that wraps over the back and down. There are no holes in the bumper for these. I clipped these off with wire cutters and filed/sanded them smooth - 10 minutes max for all 4. One of these pins is shown in picture 3 - with white paper underneath for clarity.
The stainless L's are a perfect match for the holes in the bumper for the OEM part. The stainless L's look different from the OEM L's, but function the same. They fit by friction - and tightly. I put a strip of 3M mounting tape along the downward facing edge as a precaution - but this probably isn't even necessary - the clips fit into the holes very tightly. Picture 4 shows the tape and stainless L's. Put your tape (if you decide to use it) as close to the bend as you can, without going into the bend. My tape could have been closer to the bend in the part, downward in the picture.
Remove the red backing from the tape (if you use it) and place the stainless L's into the holes in the bumper. Hold the piece firmly down against the bumper - you may want a helper. I bumped the downward facing piece forward with the heel of my hand, working left to right, to get the L's to slide forward under the bumper holes. This is a lot easier when you're doing it than it sounds. The L's slid into place and I'm good to go. Finished plate is the last picture. It was actually really easy. Of course, if you want to go 100% tape you can, but there's a lot more pins and L's to remove.
BTW, I was able to retrieve the broken off metal nuts by shining a flashlight into the holes (picture 2) and using a large bamboo skewer to insert into the nut and pull it up to the edge of the bumper hole and grab it. This is easier to do than write about. You can also gain access from underneath the bumper. Be sure to do it before you put on the stainless plate so you can see light shining through the holes. Good luck!
The stainless part has 4 pins that need to be removed. These are not the same as the 4 pins previously discussed. The 4 pins are on the part that wraps over the back and down. There are no holes in the bumper for these. I clipped these off with wire cutters and filed/sanded them smooth - 10 minutes max for all 4. One of these pins is shown in picture 3 - with white paper underneath for clarity.
The stainless L's are a perfect match for the holes in the bumper for the OEM part. The stainless L's look different from the OEM L's, but function the same. They fit by friction - and tightly. I put a strip of 3M mounting tape along the downward facing edge as a precaution - but this probably isn't even necessary - the clips fit into the holes very tightly. Picture 4 shows the tape and stainless L's. Put your tape (if you decide to use it) as close to the bend as you can, without going into the bend. My tape could have been closer to the bend in the part, downward in the picture.
Remove the red backing from the tape (if you use it) and place the stainless L's into the holes in the bumper. Hold the piece firmly down against the bumper - you may want a helper. I bumped the downward facing piece forward with the heel of my hand, working left to right, to get the L's to slide forward under the bumper holes. This is a lot easier when you're doing it than it sounds. The L's slid into place and I'm good to go. Finished plate is the last picture. It was actually really easy. Of course, if you want to go 100% tape you can, but there's a lot more pins and L's to remove.
BTW, I was able to retrieve the broken off metal nuts by shining a flashlight into the holes (picture 2) and using a large bamboo skewer to insert into the nut and pull it up to the edge of the bumper hole and grab it. This is easier to do than write about. You can also gain access from underneath the bumper. Be sure to do it before you put on the stainless plate so you can see light shining through the holes. Good luck!
Great job Box.......! And.....great pics.!
I'm glad you still had your stainless still intact and could make the appropriate mods to make it work! Hopefully others will benefit from our "pioneer work" because it's well worth it.......the stainless plate really adds that "touch of class" equal to the rest of the vehicle........I also was able to get out the two nuts that fell in the bumper.
05-19-2007, 11:58 PM
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'06 A6 & '08 GL550
Stainless bumper pad is on!
Box -
Great post and love the pics! Thanks for taking the time to share your experience. It really is amazing how much better the chrome looks on the vehicle.
Looking forward to seeing the new wheels after you have them installed. Enjoy the cool weather while it lasts!
Great post and love the pics! Thanks for taking the time to share your experience. It really is amazing how much better the chrome looks on the vehicle.
Looking forward to seeing the new wheels after you have them installed. Enjoy the cool weather while it lasts!
05-20-2007, 08:19 AM
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2011 E350 Cabriolet..White and Almond Mocha
Excellent tutorial box...and nice images. I am glad the holes match with the clips on the chrome piece but for the ones on the lip that there are no holes for. That is discouraging...I was hoping for a perfect fit. I will just have to see what the body shop offers to do and if they cannot (or don't want to) do the replacement then I will do what you did. Thanks for the details.
05-20-2007, 09:25 PM
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Finally, the pictures
Thanks to oknish for the AMG pedal info, I like them a lot and to Brabus164 for getting me started on the Monoblock E's - I think they look great on an OB GL. I can't remember where I first heard of the PE running boards, but I'm glad I did.
05-20-2007, 10:21 PM
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So glad you're happy with your GL. Great pics, too.
05-20-2007, 10:27 PM
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2) Get the bumper plate at your MB dealer - it is an EU OEM part. I have the part number at work and will post it tomorrow. List is ~$200 but my dealer matched MB of Eugene (Oregon) online price of ~$169.
05-20-2007, 11:05 PM
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'06 A6 & '08 GL550
Box is the Man!
Amazing, incredible, phenomenal, outstanding, and awesome pics Box.
Right now, on my computer screen I've got the nearly identical shots you took of the 18's on Friday plastered right beside the new Pirelli 20's on Sunday. I'm like a kid in the candy store ready to make my pitch to Mom, er wife
, on why the 20's are a necessity.
Enjoy the ride and thanks for posting pics of the new beast. BTW, I love your property... looks like an absolutely beautiful setting.
Right now, on my computer screen I've got the nearly identical shots you took of the 18's on Friday plastered right beside the new Pirelli 20's on Sunday. I'm like a kid in the candy store ready to make my pitch to Mom, er wife
, on why the 20's are a necessity.Enjoy the ride and thanks for posting pics of the new beast. BTW, I love your property... looks like an absolutely beautiful setting.
05-20-2007, 11:14 PM
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Amazing, incredible, phenomenal, outstanding, and awesome pics Box.
Right now, on my computer screen I've got the nearly identical shots you took of the 18's on Friday plastered right beside the new Pirelli 20's on Sunday. I'm like a kid in the candy store ready to make my pitch to Mom, er wife , on why the 20's are a necessity.
Enjoy the ride and thanks for posting pics of the new beast. BTW, I love your property... looks like an absolutely beautiful setting.
Right now, on my computer screen I've got the nearly identical shots you took of the 18's on Friday plastered right beside the new Pirelli 20's on Sunday. I'm like a kid in the candy store ready to make my pitch to Mom, er wife
, on why the 20's are a necessity.Enjoy the ride and thanks for posting pics of the new beast. BTW, I love your property... looks like an absolutely beautiful setting.
05-21-2007, 01:30 AM
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'07 GL 450, '02 S 80 T6
Car looks great, BB. Those wheels look AWESOME. I am guessing we are talking a triple coat of Zaino? How long did it take you? I am doing mine, again, on memorial day weekend. Should be fun 
GLDriver - seriously, your White looks great also. I love the look of skid plates on white. I think they look better than on Black.
GLDriver - seriously, your White looks great also. I love the look of skid plates on white. I think they look better than on Black.
05-21-2007, 01:38 AM
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'07 GL 450, '02 S 80 T6
Originally Posted by boxboss
My other cars are bone stock and I decided to have some fun with this one.
05-21-2007, 06:23 AM
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13 SL550, 14 E63 Wagon, 15 S550, 11 M3, 08 F430 Spider, 12 ML350
05-21-2007, 08:18 AM
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About 4 hours total. After washing, I had a significant number of water spots (hazard of black) and a little adhesive left from shipping tape. I applied Klasse AIO (All-In-One) to clean the spots and adhesive - AIO is a great product. Then a coat of Souveran carnauba wax. I've always thought carnauba is better on dark colors even though it is much less durable than Zaino.
