Installing Tekonsha electric brake controller
I am currently trying to install a Tekonsha Prodigy electric brake controller and am pulling my hair out trying to work out wiring routes !. Where did you guys and girls route the wires from the Tekonsha installed under the dash) back through to the GLs trailer plug ????.......under the carpet.............though the floor (after drilling a hole ????). Did you power the Tekonsha straight from the battery under the seat ?
Also - Looking at the SAM installed the plug seems fine, but when I did a temp hook-up in the back.....to ensure I didnt fart around fulling installing it to find out it didnt work - the Tekonsha unit shows up SH on its screen (which means trailer short). The trailer we know is fine because we had just used it with another vehicle also fitted with a Tekonsha Prodigy. Searching the next has suggested earthing the Prodigy DIRECTLY to the battery and not the car chassis (or I guess through the SAM green plug loom). Dod you need to use the SAM loom at all - ie cant you just wire it up seperately to the SAM unit (as you would with any other car.
An interesting thing I noted too was that the GL is too smart - testing the trailer plug on the GL I made a false indication of a blown right hand trailer turn signal globe - on the cars screen it tells you that your trailer has 'trailer right hand signal globe failure'...............smart *** car !!!
Last edited by scottybdiving; Jan 3, 2008 at 07:17 PM.
yes you are right - there is a plug, but its at the SAM unit in the back - not under the dash ready to go.........real handy !
I am wondering where (read also as how) people are routing the wiring from the SAM plug forward to the Tekonsha unit and return to battery/or correct earths on the car body ?
Has anyone here installed a trailer electric brake controller and are familiar with the wiring aspects of the install ?
yes you are right - there is a plug, but its at the SAM unit in the back - not under the dash ready to go.........real handy !
I am wondering where (read also as how) people are routing the wiring from the SAM plug forward to the Tekonsha unit and return to battery/or correct earths on the car body ?

I can't help you with the routing, but it appears that the plug has both the power feed and ground for the brake controller.
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Has anyone here installed a trailer electric brake controller and are familiar with the wiring aspects of the install ?
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I continued with the install myself (mine has the SAM plug in the back of the car - pre Dec 06).........frustrating !.
Started from scratch, only used the brake control signal from the SAM and pos directly to battery for the Prodigy.
In detail, as follows:
Tekonsha 'Prodigy' wire connections:
Blue - to trailer plug (to power trailer brakes)
Red - signal from SAM for brake application (this is connected to BOTH the black/red wire [0,75mm] and yellow/red wire [2.5mm] at the SAM)
White - negative (earth) to vehicle battery
Black - Positive to vehicle battery
Install took 8 hours, many a few choice words, but all is working as advertised. Hardest part, running the wiring neatly under the carpet and ensuring the routing will not potentially be cut on any sharp (unfinished) edges of the body under the carpet. In addition for safety sake any 'powered' or signal wire was installed with in-line fuses.
Next frustration, replacing three towbar bolts.............. the dumb *** who installed the factory tow bar actually bent three 8.8 bolts holding the bar in place - of course I didnt pick that up when the car was delivered new.............you shouldnt have to look at work like that done at a dealer to ensure they did it properly !
Mine, like others, was right above the driver's feet, which, after I made the harness, made installing it very easy.
Mine, like others, was right above the driver's feet, which, after I made the harness, made installing it very easy.
STP
My ML had no trailer hitch, the dealer wanted to sell me that car, so they suggested that they would install the factory hitch, connector etc. to sell the car that they had in stock, I reluctantly agreed, and they did the install, when I first tried to plug a adaptor, 7 prong to flat 4 I had no lights on the trailer. I bought it back to them and they said they neglected to change the SAM, now they installed a different SAM, and re-programmed, I now only have a steady glowing prong inside the connector, (running lights) I can't find a lug with either left or right blinker, or brake lights. I put the headlights on, and switched the 4 way flashers on, no blinkers, do I need another adaptor 7 to 4 way flat, my trailer needs a left, right blinker, running lights, and a reverse gear lug, to activate the solenoid to be able to back up with disc brakes. Did they put the wrong sam, in, or re-program it wrong, or am I just missing something?
My ML had no trailer hitch, the dealer wanted to sell me that car, so they suggested that they would install the factory hitch, connector etc. to sell the car that they had in stock, I reluctantly agreed, and they did the install, when I first tried to plug a adaptor, 7 prong to flat 4 I had no lights on the trailer. I bought it back to them and they said they neglected to change the SAM, now they installed a different SAM, and re-programmed, I now only have a steady glowing prong inside the connector, (running lights) I can't find a lug with either left or right blinker, or brake lights. I put the headlights on, and switched the 4 way flashers on, no blinkers, do I need another adaptor 7 to 4 way flat, my trailer needs a left, right blinker, running lights, and a reverse gear lug, to activate the solenoid to be able to back up with disc brakes. Did they put the wrong sam, in, or re-program it wrong, or am I just missing something?
You can get them at any auto parts store. I carry one in the back of my GL just for rental trailers.
Just to make sure they wired it right, I have attached a pdf which lists RVI wiring standards. I got it from the delcity.com trailer site. E-trailer is also a great place to shop. The connector pins are numbered so you can check them with a multimeter and testing the left/right turn signal and running lights to insure your connector is wired right. Good luck!
I would suggest that if the dealer did it, they need to keep working on it until they get it right...
Either going out and get a 7 pin tester that you can plug into the back of the vehicle or tow your trailer down to the dealership, and explaining the way that it should work, and the way that it is working now...
Tell them you would like it to work the way it should when you pick it up...
I have other friends that have had the same problem... Dealer charges them to wire the vehicle and it turns out the dealer did it wrong... They usually don't get it figured out until they get the vehicle loaded up for a trip and connect the camper trailer.... Frustrating.
STP
The GL is more than capable of towing a dump trailer... Do you currently have the towing package, or would you need to get it wired up. If you are keeping the Excursion only for dump runs and to haul a trailer every once in a while, get rid of it and save the insurance and FUEL costs.
I wonder if anyone's made a custom trailer that follows the GL's lines? I've seen that done with some other makes like the PT Cruiser. That would look really slick, I think!
Regarding the trailer light out warning, the computer is probably programmed to look for a certain level of current draw from the trailer turn signals, and most likely its the draw from the average incandescent bulb. Since the tester likely uses LED lights, they don't draw nearly as much current as the incandescent bulbs which triggers the warning...




