GL 320cdi Schedule C service shopping list
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GL 320 cdi
GL 320cdi Schedule C service shopping list
I'm planning on tackling the schedule C service on our truck and wanted to make sure I have everything I need. Here is my shopping list so far - what else do I need?
6420940404
Mann
Air Filter; SET of 2
$37.76
1648300218
Mann
Cabin Air Filter/Pollen Filter; Cabin Filter with Activated Charcoal; Set of 2 Filters
$26.97
6460920701
Hengst
Fuel Filter; With Water Separator Connection, without Sensor
$29.67
6421800009
Mann
Oil Filter
$10.39
Parts Total
$104.79
If anyone has procedures for any of this schedule - please share.
Thanks in advance for any information provided.
6420940404
Mann
Air Filter; SET of 2
$37.76
1648300218
Mann
Cabin Air Filter/Pollen Filter; Cabin Filter with Activated Charcoal; Set of 2 Filters
$26.97
6460920701
Hengst
Fuel Filter; With Water Separator Connection, without Sensor
$29.67
6421800009
Mann
Oil Filter
$10.39
Parts Total
$104.79
If anyone has procedures for any of this schedule - please share.
Thanks in advance for any information provided.
Last edited by tokiozulu; Sep 20, 2011 at 05:38 PM.
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Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 4,268
Likes: 253
You don't need a procedure for any of the tasks.
Few pointers:
1. You need to remove the strut support brace in the engine compartment
2. You need to remove the sensor in the old fuel filter and put it in the new filter. It might resist, but it should slide straight out with some persuasion. It is fragile, so be careful.
3. The driver side air filter box is harder to remove, but it will slide out with some imagination and spatial awareness
4. Some people use the Mercedes spec hose clamps for the fuel filter. I use regular worm clamps.
5. When plugging the intake tract back in the turbo make sure you don't squeeze and deform the rubber seal on the turbo. Best way to put the intake assembly on top is to insert driver side pipe, then center, then pass side. Make sure the air filter boxes are snugly fit into the pipes leading to the turbo- the rubber connectors tend to bend inside the tract and out of sight.
Good luck. You will handle it just right if you have basic mechanical skills. Take your time. You will need it.
Few pointers:
1. You need to remove the strut support brace in the engine compartment
2. You need to remove the sensor in the old fuel filter and put it in the new filter. It might resist, but it should slide straight out with some persuasion. It is fragile, so be careful.
3. The driver side air filter box is harder to remove, but it will slide out with some imagination and spatial awareness
4. Some people use the Mercedes spec hose clamps for the fuel filter. I use regular worm clamps.
5. When plugging the intake tract back in the turbo make sure you don't squeeze and deform the rubber seal on the turbo. Best way to put the intake assembly on top is to insert driver side pipe, then center, then pass side. Make sure the air filter boxes are snugly fit into the pipes leading to the turbo- the rubber connectors tend to bend inside the tract and out of sight.
Good luck. You will handle it just right if you have basic mechanical skills. Take your time. You will need it.
Last edited by alx; Sep 21, 2011 at 10:50 AM.
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2008 GL320
I would just get new hose clamps for the fuel filter. It cost me less than $5 for the two clamps from the dealer. DO NOT try to reuse the old clamps. Consider the pressure the fuel system is under. If one of those clamps comes loose, you will have an instant fire.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Dec 2004
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and yes- do not reuse the old ones. but i personally absolutely do not see a need to use the mercedes-specific clamps. i use regular worm clamps - mine even have plastic handles on the screws for easy install and removal. been like that for 60k miles.
Last edited by alx; Sep 21, 2011 at 05:05 PM.
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 17
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2008 GL320
I can't specifically answer that, other than to say "a significant amount of pressure." I'm not holding myself out to be an expert on this subject. I do know, though, that diesel fuel rail pressure can be much higher than what we might be accustomed to in a standard gas vehicle.
I agree with alx on this. I don't think you have to use the OEM clamps, but it is my preference, if for nothing else, because of the convenience of getting all parts at once from the dealer. I wasn't trying to debate alx on this issue. I was just suggesting that I would go ahead and use new, OEM clamps.
I agree with alx on this. I don't think you have to use the OEM clamps, but it is my preference, if for nothing else, because of the convenience of getting all parts at once from the dealer. I wasn't trying to debate alx on this issue. I was just suggesting that I would go ahead and use new, OEM clamps.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 4,268
Likes: 253
I can't specifically answer that, other than to say "a significant amount of pressure." I'm not holding myself out to be an expert on this subject. I do know, though, that diesel fuel rail pressure can be much higher than what we might be accustomed to in a standard gas vehicle.
Junior Member
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Posts: 17
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2008 GL320
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MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 6,189
Likes: 242
From: Albuquerque
'10 CL550, '12 GL550
I don't think you have to use the OEM clamps, but it is my preference, if for nothing else, because of the convenience of getting all parts at once from the dealer. I wasn't trying to debate alx on this issue. I was just suggesting that I would go ahead and use new, OEM clamps.
Original poster needs to add a CLIC clamp tool to his shopping list.
He really ought to add a factory service DVD as well.
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Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 17
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2008 GL320
Care to share a part number for the GL320 service DVD?
