75K mi

Engine shut down on freeway; dash lights still on but engine stopped dead. Wouldn't crank.

Pulled over, was able to restart after about a minute. Was able to run for about another minute, then same sudden death.

Repeat about 5x till I got home. Tested in garage; it would run for about one minute at idle and then abruptly stop. No error messages (except ABS/ESP but only then if moving while dying). No CEL. No OBDC, except an old P0012 that appeared twice then disappeared. Yes, I have a box of four camshaft position sensors awaiting installment.

Crankshaft position sensor?

What are the odds it is ECU related and covered by the emissions warranty?

I am waiting for the tow truck as this one is outside my patience and expertise.

This is the first time in 25 years that a car has failed to get me home. Well, technically, it did get me home, but I literally had to coast part of the way.

I accidentally shifted it into Park during one of the episodes. Hope I didn't eff up the trans too much.

We M-B owners are masochistic and like our sadistic Teutonic mistresses.

 

not sure on yours, but when my CPS went bad, the car would crank like a ****, just wouldn't fire.

 

Towed it to a local high end shop. They diagnosed it as something computer related and said it has to be serviced at MB. Towed it to MB dealer (now I'm out two days rental car plus $100 diagnostic fee plus $48 in over-tow fees).

Just got the news. It's the front SAM ( signal acquisition module ). $670 to fix.

Also the tumble flap on the intake manifold is broken, and so the entire intake manifold needs to be replaced. $1,930. I looked around and short of oddball custom fixes, or buying a used manifold, or perhaps a high performance manifold, the damned thing has to be replaced.

Left rear ball joint is creaking and has to be replaced. I'll do those myself.

So there you have it. A car that has to have $2,500 in repairs at 75K miles. Amazing.

 

Stealerships I tell ya. Try another high end independent shop. They may provide same quality of service with a lower price. As a matter of fact, MAKE SURE that the intake manifold HAS to be replaced. Dealerships are known to make huge estimates and claims like this to get the money.

 

Anyone else have any experience with a broken flap/linkage on the intake manifold? My dealer just told me the same thing that "you have to replace the whole thing". The truck is running great and no error codes. Is there a down side to just continuing to drive it?

Thanks

 

most likely not a ball joint, but the rubber bushing on the height sensor arms/ doglegs.

they will dry up and creak/squeak like crazy. nothing like some silicone grease would not fix.

on the front sam- check for water damage.

 

Thanks for the tips. Will look into the rubber bushings. The dealership did the diagnosis.

On the front SAM, we haven't had rain here in a while. And it was a thermal type of failure: It would run for a little while and then fail, then run again after cooling down.

The dealer said that the tumble flap itself, not the linkage, was broken. I wonder whether parts had gotten sucked into the motor. But in any event, you should be able to run the vehicle just fine with the flap removed or stuck in the open position. Just my guess: Stuck closed might limit top power, stuck open might reduce fuel efficiency at lower power. In any event, I didn't know enough about it to judge, so I am stuck with the staggering repair bill. I never heard of an entire intake manifold being the only replaceable module. I could have probably continued driving it, but I need to get on with things.

 

I just got my tumble flow intake fixed And unfortunately they had to replace the entire manifold. The mechanic explained to me that it is such a rip off because just one little stem piece was broken and they had to replace the entire component. I think Mercedes-Benz have a reputation when small piece that is broken has to replace the entire component!!!!!

 

Same thing here with my 2008. Check engine light came on and it is the same little part and they have to replace the whole thing. Also the engine thermostat is broke as well. They are doing the work plus with an oilchange, $2300. Merry Christmas to me!

 

designed obsolescence - I just hit 135K miles and I got the thermostat valve stuck open and tumble flap intake manifold stuck in actuated position error codes. of course all my window trim needs to be replaced and I have already gone through the airshock replacements (thank goodness for Arnott) and the front-end rebuild.

 

I've had all of these malfunctions in the past 2 years since my Cert pre-owned warranty ran out. Add to that tail gate latch replacement $750, front and back strut replacement $3,600. Intake manifold repair was about $2,500 and recent battery and SAM replacement $1,200.

 

I have a NEW front SAM for sale. Part # A164 900 41 01.

 

You're still have the front SAM for sell?
(Part number A164 900 41 01).
I'm interested. Please email me pedrocastrocosta@yahoo.com

Thanks