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I've only done two oil changes on my GL and I don't have a topside oil changer. Don't really want to buy one either. But each time I've done the drain and fill, the oil seeps into the fabric that surrounds the oil pan ( I can't figure out if this is to retain heat in the winter, or to deaden sound) and it makes a real mess.
From another list, somebody was looking at these Fumoto valves, and I'm wondering if anybody is using one on a GL. This thing lets you attach a hose and direct the oil to wherever you want it to go. Seems like a good way to accomplish what I want to do. The only drawback that I've heard is that it can cause the oil to drain more slowly, which isn't a concern for me as it currently rockets out and splatters everywhere.
I've only done two oil changes on my GL and I don't have a topside oil changer. Don't really want to buy one either. But each time I've done the drain and fill, the oil seeps into the fabric that surrounds the oil pan ( I can't figure out if this is to retain heat in the winter, or to deaden sound) and it makes a real mess.
You should consider a vacuum extractor. I use Mityvac#7400
I no longer have to risk getting under a 3ton skull/body crusher.
I no longer have to clean the drip pan.
I no longer have oil leaks from the drain bolt.
I can suck leftover oil from the filter housing cup.
I can measure the amount removed and replace the same amount without having to keep checking the dipstick while filling up.
Looking at the prices of the qwikvalve, it can run you up to the price of a Mityvac.
OK, I had to look since I have a Mityvac, but not the one specifically for oil changes. I've been crawling under cars my whole life, so I'm not bothered with most of the stuff mentioned. I was hoping to avoid buying another tool that will take up space in the garage. The Mityvac you have looks interesting and gets mostly decent reviews.
I bought a Mityvac 3 weeks ago, because the wife just got a 2008 GL320. I also have a 2006 T1N Sprinter.
I'll be faster the 2nd time (I was 45min the first time), but I will say that for this engine, this is THE way to go! I did everything from topside. It's easy, and clean. The location of the drain plug from below is a nightmare to keep things oil free. Never do it from the bottom again, the Mityvac is so worth it. I am fortunate that I will be using it on both of our cars. Even using it just once a year, this tool is a must have if you are doing oil changes yourself. The first change paid for the tool, FWIW.
Additionally,
You will never misplace a 10mm bolt from the belly pan.
You will never get scalding, dirty oil on your hands.
You will never have to go fishing for the oil pan bolt.
Out of curiosity, after I vacuumed all of the oil through the dipstick tube, I jacked up the rear to see if there was a pool of dirty oil that the vacuum missed. I did get about 2 tablespoons of oil that was still in the pan. My opinion is about 98-99% of the dirty oil is gone using the vacuum method.
I appreciate your enthusiasm. I've got a lift in my garage so I've got things a bit easier. My only issue changing oil on the GL is that blanket covering the oil pan. This valve seems to solve that issue. I may buy one and see how I like it (next year...since that seems to be my oil change interval) and if I don't like it I'll do something different.
Originally Posted by drgeeforce
Additionally,
You will never misplace a 10mm bolt from the belly pan.
You will never get scalding, dirty oil on your hands.
You will never have to go fishing for the oil pan bolt.
Out of curiosity, after I vacuumed all of the oil through the dipstick tube, I jacked up the rear to see if there was a pool of dirty oil that the vacuum missed. I did get about 2 tablespoons of oil that was still in the pan. My opinion is about 98-99% of the dirty oil is gone using the vacuum method.
.. and if you have ever removed the oil pan on a cdi (as well as most modern german cars) and looked at the way it is braced/ curved/ sectioned you will know that sucking the oil is incomplete and leaves large pockets of the dirtiest (sludge-est) oil in the engine.
So I changed the oil for the first time with the Fumoto valve installed and I've got to say it's the best $35 I've spent in a while. Not a single drop spilled and it goes right into my used oil can without having to do a separate transfer from a catch pan to the jug. I love it.
I remember now where I got the idea for this. When I was in HS my mom had a Volvo 240 wagon (what a great car...) that had a stopcock installed in place of an coolant drain valve; came like that from the factory. You did the same thing as this valve; hook up a piece of tubing and drain the radiator fluid.
I've got the same thing on my Suburban (diesel, not that it makes a difference for this story, though). Had it there for almost 10 years, now. Love it. I do also use an oil sucker for some things - but the Fumoto is a great tool.
Sak, another good thing about the Fumoto is the super easy way you can get an oil sample (if you do that). I'm getting ready for the first oil change with this GL since I had it - just placed an order for the Fumoto!
On a different topic... I think I have "garage envy"... a nice floor, a lift and what looks like a good amount of room!
I have yet to physically look at the inside of a oil pan, although I do understand what you mean by "bracing" or "windage" plates. I have to get a couple small parts from the dealer soon, and was going to ask if they happened to have one in stock that I could quickly look at.
But... and here's the "curious" part... wouldn't there still be gaps/holes/whatever in that bracing/sectioning to allow the oil to drain to the drain plug area? And, if so, wouldn't that also mean the oil can drain to the dipstick area? Again, never seen one, so maybe there's more to this than I'm imagining?
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