2011 GL350 Should I Stay Or Should I Go?

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Nov 28, 2015 | 05:40 PM
  #1  
Any thoughts on the below would be greatly appreciated...

2011 GL350 BluTec just paid off (low interest rate, but ).
This is our second GL, first diesel.

94,500 miles. MBUSA Extended Warranty (ELW) to 125,000 miles/7 years.

Great interior and exterior condition. Even the techs at MB can't believe how new it looks. Love this car, but without the Extended Warranty we would have hated it.

Replaced:
-Steering Wheel Column (2013)
-Crack Engine Mounts (2013)
-Repaired Rear Hatch Mechanism (2013)
-Replaced Back-Up Camera
-Air Conditioning Unit (2014) (caused by dealer repair)
-Oil Cooler (2014)
-Front Struts (2015)
-Exhaust Manifold and Brackets (2015)
-One Key (stolen)

Was looking forward to no payments for a while, but wondering:
-if selling it with some of the ELW (would have to be private sale) and transferring the equity (~$35k) into a new/used GL with certified and ELW warranty makes more sense.
- waiting for new integrated cell phone/GPS technology is a good idea

Concerned that:
- new GL doesn't have the cargo barrier hooks which is disappointing
- one electronic problem could be $$$
- have used the WeatherTech mats and CanvasBack for all three cars, would probably have to reinvest in these
- it's practically a new car with all these whole replacements which could be less to go wrong in the future
- we'll be regretting after the first big repair bill when the ELW expires that we should have just put the $ into a new car

Thoughts! TIA!
Reply 0
Nov 28, 2015 | 08:10 PM
  #2  
Would you trade it for a gas or diesel model? If trading for another diesel, keep it. If trading for a newer V8 450/550 or 63, do the trade.
Reply 0
Nov 29, 2015 | 03:16 AM
  #3  
Quote: Would you trade it for a gas or diesel model? If trading for another diesel, keep it. If trading for a newer V8 450/550 or 63, do the trade.
Thanks, BlownV8.

Why for the gas versions, but not for the diesel?

Our service rep did admit that the diesel engine requires more maintenance.
Reply 0
Nov 29, 2015 | 12:53 PM
  #4  
If you go with another diesel, you are going to have a repeat of what you have already had go wrong. With the gasser, you won't have the issues. Since your problems have been adressed, your diesel should be relatively reliable albeit with more maintenance than the gasser.
Reply 0
Nov 30, 2015 | 11:49 AM
  #5  
Quote: If you go with another diesel, you are going to have a repeat of what you have already had go wrong. With the gasser, you won't have the issues. Since your problems have been adressed, your diesel should be relatively reliable albeit with more maintenance than the gasser.
He did this :

Replaced:
-Steering Wheel Column (2013)
-Crack Engine Mounts (2013)
-Repaired Rear Hatch Mechanism (2013)
-Replaced Back-Up Camera
-Air Conditioning Unit (2014) (caused by dealer repair)
-Oil Cooler (2014)
-Front Struts (2015)
-Exhaust Manifold and Brackets (2015)
-One Key (stolen)

I am not a mechanic, but looking at his list - how many of those repairs related to a diesel ? Perhaps just one - Oil cooler (may be). Why are you so negative about diesels and so positive about gas engines ?
Reply 0
May 10, 2016 | 07:43 PM
  #6  
Just an update...no we're in and out of limp mode due to the car throwing torque converter codes. Second time it's been in the shop for this. Now, it needs to go back a third time. I would say that's engine related.
Reply 0
May 11, 2016 | 12:15 AM
  #7  
am confused why you think the torque converter stuff is engine related, i thought that was a transmission issue

the truck goes into limp mode to protect the trans i think
Reply 0
May 11, 2016 | 09:21 AM
  #8  
Quote: He did this :

Replaced:
-Steering Wheel Column (2013)
-Crack Engine Mounts (2013)
-Repaired Rear Hatch Mechanism (2013)
-Replaced Back-Up Camera
-Air Conditioning Unit (2014) (caused by dealer repair)
-Oil Cooler (2014)
-Front Struts (2015)
-Exhaust Manifold and Brackets (2015)
-One Key (stolen)

I am not a mechanic, but looking at his list - how many of those repairs related to a diesel ? Perhaps just one - Oil cooler (may be). Why are you so negative about diesels and so positive about gas engines ?
Sorry I missed your post. Let's see. The oil cooler, exhaust manifold, and I believe the engine mounts are different on the diesel. Why am I so hard on the diesel? Look at the numerous postings on the diesell issues while there are very few on the gas model relating to drive train issues. I've owned my GL 450 since 2007 and during that time I've put 200k miles on the vehicle. It is the most reliable and cheapest MB to maintain that I've owned. It still drives and performs as it did when new.
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May 11, 2016 | 12:16 PM
  #9  
I'm kinda with aeggroup who questions dissing the diesel. Sure I've had a boatload of problems with my GL350, but exactly one has been diesel related and that was related to the DEF tank.
Are the diesels built in a different plant than the gas versions?
Yes diesel maintenance is more expensive. (Those f---ing fuel filters!) But the diesels make up for some of that in better mpg.
Reply 0
May 12, 2016 | 12:18 PM
  #10  
looking at the list of replaced parts i would say very little is left of the usual suspects to go wrong- i dont see only the rear airbags and the urea heater which are problematic. the rear airgbags will be about $1000-1500 to be replaced with oem units and the bluetec heater will be about $2000 when it shorts out.

it is your call. i would keep it. the diesel value is driving it into the ground.
Reply 0
May 12, 2016 | 02:33 PM
  #11  
i thought the arnott rear air bags were much cheaper than that
Reply 0
May 12, 2016 | 04:13 PM
  #12  
Quote: i thought the arnott rear air bags were much cheaper than that
Hence the "oem" clarification in my post
Reply 0
May 13, 2016 | 09:14 AM
  #13  
Keep it and put 1/2 the $$ you had been paying for your car payment in a "car fund" and the other 1/2 of payment to invest, save, pay bills, vacation etc.
Reply 1
May 13, 2016 | 01:33 PM
  #14  
Quote: Keep it and put 1/2 the $$ you had been paying for your car payment in a "car fund" and the other 1/2 of payment to invest, save, pay bills, vacation etc.
That's a good way to look at it.
Reply 0
May 15, 2016 | 09:03 PM
  #15  
Don't keep that car after the extended warranty runs out. It will likely cost you a fortune, IMHO.
Reply 0
May 16, 2016 | 02:13 PM
  #16  
CPO is a life saver.
Reply 0
May 16, 2016 | 02:15 PM
  #17  
What is CPO?
Reply 0
May 16, 2016 | 03:11 PM
  #18  
think that stands for certified pre owned
Reply 0
May 16, 2016 | 03:20 PM
  #19  
Then doesn't that also stand for a substantially higher used car price?
Reply 0
May 16, 2016 | 07:14 PM
  #20  
Quote: Then doesn't that also stand for a substantially higher used car price?
Sometimes you get some stupid high pricing but doesn't stop you from negotiating.
Reply 0
May 18, 2016 | 12:10 AM
  #21  
Quote: Just an update...no we're in and out of limp mode due to the car throwing torque converter codes. Second time it's been in the shop for this. Now, it needs to go back a third time. I would say that's engine related.
You probably answered your own initial question. It is my experience that a GL over six years old is going to cost you $5~10k a year to maintain. At some point it's going to approach 50% of the car value. Mileage is not as important as age on those GLs because things like gasket will break down with age.
Reply 0
May 18, 2016 | 12:18 AM
  #22  
you guys must all use the dealerships for everything

i am not spending 5-10 grand a year keeping my suv on the road

i buy my own parts and have an excellent indie

not saying they are super cheap to maintain but my numbers are nowhere near that high
Reply 0
May 18, 2016 | 12:46 AM
  #23  
Yes, $5~10k is of course dealership price. I imagine majority of GL owners would go that route. Finding the right part and the indie shop takes time, affort and knowledge. Lots of Gl owners won't have the determination and luck to pull this off.
Reply 0
May 18, 2016 | 08:05 AM
  #24  
I don't think I've spent more than a few hundred a year for the last few years on my GL and that includes a recent plug change. The initial 100k miles would have been close to. $1k per.year but it was under warranty. Tires get changed about once in 3.years and that does run about $800 -$900.
Reply 0
May 18, 2016 | 02:23 PM
  #25  
"A few hundred a year"? You are very lucky then.
Reply 0
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