R&R front axle, 2007 GL450
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GLS450
R&R front axle, 2007 GL450
305 40R 22 tires
I'm editing this thread as I should first describe why I feel the right axle CV joint(s) are making me think I need to replace the axle.
When I turn right or left at slower speeds, especially when going uphill, I hear a dull clicking sound coming from the right front end. I took a mechanic for a ride and he agreed with me that it sounded like the CV joint(s) in the right front axle. I understand that this is not a
common problem on these cars and I believe that clicking when turning both ways is a little unusual if only one axle's CV joint(s) are failing.
So, to correct my thread, I may be replacing the right front axle on my 2007 GL450 and I would like some help.
1. Should I separate the upper or lower ball joints, or both, from the steering knuckle?
2. Do I have to separate the tie-rod from the steering knuckle?
3. Do I have to remove the brake caliper and rotor?
4. Is there anything about doing this job that I need to be aware of?
5. I notice the transfer case end of the axle has two grooves in it which look like they are for circlips for retaining s bearing. Is that the case?
Any help from experience would be appreciated.
I'm editing this thread as I should first describe why I feel the right axle CV joint(s) are making me think I need to replace the axle.
When I turn right or left at slower speeds, especially when going uphill, I hear a dull clicking sound coming from the right front end. I took a mechanic for a ride and he agreed with me that it sounded like the CV joint(s) in the right front axle. I understand that this is not a
common problem on these cars and I believe that clicking when turning both ways is a little unusual if only one axle's CV joint(s) are failing.
So, to correct my thread, I may be replacing the right front axle on my 2007 GL450 and I would like some help.
1. Should I separate the upper or lower ball joints, or both, from the steering knuckle?
2. Do I have to separate the tie-rod from the steering knuckle?
3. Do I have to remove the brake caliper and rotor?
4. Is there anything about doing this job that I need to be aware of?
5. I notice the transfer case end of the axle has two grooves in it which look like they are for circlips for retaining s bearing. Is that the case?
Any help from experience would be appreciated.
Last edited by 1xsculler; Jan 15, 2016 at 02:45 AM. Reason: change
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The pass side cv joint does go bad so you are not alone there. The driver side on the other hand is much shorter and for some reason is never an issue.
The job is straight forward but if you live in the north east you might have a serious problem removing the shock bolt at the bottom. It often gets frozen into the rubber bushing and if you twist too hard you will tear the bushing at which point the job turns into pure misery. Btw, there are no circlips to worry about. The cv joint slides out of the front dff with little effort. You have to separate the upper ball joint.
The job is straight forward but if you live in the north east you might have a serious problem removing the shock bolt at the bottom. It often gets frozen into the rubber bushing and if you twist too hard you will tear the bushing at which point the job turns into pure misery. Btw, there are no circlips to worry about. The cv joint slides out of the front dff with little effort. You have to separate the upper ball joint.
Last edited by alx; Jan 14, 2016 at 10:16 PM.
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GLS450
305 40R 22 and I'm glad you asked that as these tires/rims were installed by the previous owner and while I like the way they look I've wondered if they might affect the suspension adversely.
They just barely fit and I doubt that you could install any thing bigger.
They just barely fit and I doubt that you could install any thing bigger.
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E55, GLS450, GL63, GLE350
Look at your fender wells and see if the wheels are hitting the fender well liner. The noise you are hearing may be the wheel hitting the wheel well lining and making the popping noise. If it happens at low speeds and hard turns, this may be the issue. If not, it's probably what ALX said.
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GLS450
The car has 110k miles on it. The tires have been on for 20k, 10k while I've owned it and the knocking just started about 500 miles ago. It doesn't do it at or near full lock or straight ahead but only on slow, moderate turning at slower speeds.
I'm quite sure it's not the tires rubbing on the inner fenders.
I'm quite sure it's not the tires rubbing on the inner fenders.
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Ok, mine does the same thing and it is the tires catching on the fender well very slightly causing the pop noise. It only happens at slow speeds and I notice between 3/4 and full lock usually when I'm turning right. Louder pop could mean plastic is stiffer from cold weather but if you are sure that's not it.....
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I appreciate the follow-up and I will check that carefully before diving into a much bigger undertaking.
I did receive a new right front 1/2 shaft from First Equipment Quality ($146 including 2-day shipping) today. I was told not to go with A Cardone or any other rebuilt shaft. The FEQ is a new part, does not require a core charge and was recommended.
I did receive a new right front 1/2 shaft from First Equipment Quality ($146 including 2-day shipping) today. I was told not to go with A Cardone or any other rebuilt shaft. The FEQ is a new part, does not require a core charge and was recommended.
Last edited by 1xsculler; Jan 15, 2016 at 10:55 PM.
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GLS450
Thanks for the help. After hemming and hawing about this undertaking I finally decided to tackle it yesterday and it was much easier than I expected only taking a couple of hours. The new axle did solve the clicking problem.
Loosening the axle nut required a lot of force with a four foot long extension on my 3/4" drive breaker bar. I rented a pressing puller from a local auto parts store as that was the only way I could press the splined shaft out of the hub. I separated the tie rod and upper ball joint from the steering knuckle. I separated the lower end of the sway bar link from the sway bar which allowed me to slip the axle out between the lower a-arm and the lower end of the shock absorber after removing that bolt.
Reassembly was fairly easy.
The dealer quoted me $2000 and other shops quoted me from $700 to $1300. So, being fully retired I had the time to deal with this issue and spent a total of $146.
Loosening the axle nut required a lot of force with a four foot long extension on my 3/4" drive breaker bar. I rented a pressing puller from a local auto parts store as that was the only way I could press the splined shaft out of the hub. I separated the tie rod and upper ball joint from the steering knuckle. I separated the lower end of the sway bar link from the sway bar which allowed me to slip the axle out between the lower a-arm and the lower end of the shock absorber after removing that bolt.
Reassembly was fairly easy.
The dealer quoted me $2000 and other shops quoted me from $700 to $1300. So, being fully retired I had the time to deal with this issue and spent a total of $146.
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GL450; Audi Q7 sline; GX470-SOLD, E55-SOLD, Range Rover Supercharged-Sold
Thanks for the help. After hemming and hawing about this undertaking I finally decided to tackle it yesterday and it was much easier than I expected only taking a couple of hours. The new axle did solve the clicking problem.
Loosening the axle nut required a lot of force with a four foot long extension on my 3/4" drive breaker bar. I rented a pressing puller from a local auto parts store as that was the only way I could press the splined shaft out of the hub. I separated the tie rod and upper ball joint from the steering knuckle. I separated the lower end of the sway bar link from the sway bar which allowed me to slip the axle out between the lower a-arm and the lower end of the shock absorber after removing that bolt.
Reassembly was fairly easy.
The dealer quoted me $2000 and other shops quoted me from $700 to $1300. So, being fully retired I had the time to deal with this issue and spent a total of $146.
Loosening the axle nut required a lot of force with a four foot long extension on my 3/4" drive breaker bar. I rented a pressing puller from a local auto parts store as that was the only way I could press the splined shaft out of the hub. I separated the tie rod and upper ball joint from the steering knuckle. I separated the lower end of the sway bar link from the sway bar which allowed me to slip the axle out between the lower a-arm and the lower end of the shock absorber after removing that bolt.
Reassembly was fairly easy.
The dealer quoted me $2000 and other shops quoted me from $700 to $1300. So, being fully retired I had the time to deal with this issue and spent a total of $146.
If you did the whole half-shaft (which I assume you did) where did you get it for only $146?
Thanks!
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GLS450
First Equipment Quality, I feel is the only one to buy, IMHO. ON eBay I think for $146.
