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My GL500 has the factory chrome cross bars fitted and thanks to this forum I was able to find out that a Thule key would fit so Ive ordered one and it works to remove the covers, but what next? Ive read about the black rubber strip having to come off, is that necessary for removal or fitting only? I see a allen bolt under each cap, does that need to be undone?
I dont want to start pulling stuff apart but I want to remove the bars as I will only use them one a year maybe.
The factory crossbars are a classic example of MB over engineering. Yes, they minimize wind noise and look pretty. But good luck if you want to take then on and off repeatedly. Just throw away the cheap plastic "chrome" housings over the clamps. Because at least one will break by the 3rd or 4th time you unlock and remove them. And I have noticed a 1-2 mpg difference during our 800 mile summer drive from FL to NC. Not huge, but meaningful, so I take them off for extended highway driving.
There are 3 allen screws on the end of each crossbar that you have to loosen, but not too much in case they fall out... One allen screw loosens the clamp that secures the crossbar to the rail. The other two (which you have to peel up the rubber center strip to access) allow the clamp to slide back and forth on the rail. Which makes it easier to install/remove.
And if you really want to carry anything substantial, you want to move them farther apart than the 40" that MB recommends. Why do they put on rails that are 68" long and only allow the crossbars to be mounted 40" apart?
Buy Thule, spread them farther apart, and you get a bonus that the crossbars extend beyond the rails because the Thule bars are longer, allowing you to put on an extra bike, kayak, paddleboard or whatever.
There is no need to adjust the length of the crossbars for fitting/removal. The visible Allen screw is the only thing that needs to be loosened to fit/remove these bars.
As for Mercedes overengineering ...bs. These bars are made for MB by Thule
I couldn't tell you if one end of the bar is different than the other, but I always mount the end without decal first, and then the end with decal opens nicely for fitting removal. Decal that indicates front or rear bar.
There is no need to adjust the length of the crossbars for fitting/removal. The visible Allen screw is the only thing that needs to be loosened to fit/remove these bars.
As for Mercedes overengineering ...bs. These bars are made for MB by Thule
I couldn't tell you if one end of the bar is different than the other, but I always mount the end without decal first, and then the end with decal opens nicely for fitting removal. Decal that indicates front or rear bar.
Respectfully, please reread my comments. They are not "incorrect".
If you always place the crossbars in the exact same "approved" spot on the rails, you do not need to loosen the the 2nd and 3rd allen screws to adjust the crossbar width. However, if you want the crossbars to be more than 40" apart on the rails, you have to adjust them because the rails are not parallel. And you also have to pay attention to which is the front and which is the rear.
As for "over-engineering", that refers to the design specs, not the manufacturer. Thule produces what MB designs and specifies.
If MB had designed the rails to be parallel instead of tapered, Thule would have made crossbars of identical width.
But hey, I am sure the fact that the roof rails taper a couple inches towards the rear makes the car far more aerodynamic.
What they said above^^^
Just need a 5mm hex key to undue the center bolt. That should loosen the clamp enough to remove them. You'll probably have to do some wiggling/pulling to make it happen though.
I don't like the design, because they are not easily adjustable along the length of the rails. The forward one is supposed to go right in the middle of the front section, and the rear one sits in it's own specific spot mid-rail. Does not let you adjust for longer items like paddle boards or canoes.
I had to spend a lot of time getting them to move fore/aft to do that:
Strada, from your post it appears you aren't aware of the bolts that can be loosened to make the bars longer or shorter. Read what Callisto wrote about that.
Now, are you saying that you have tried to adjust the length but they don't adjust to be able to move them forward or rearward enough? I have yet to need to have one all the way forward or all the way rearward, but it does appear there is enough adjustability to allow that. When I have needed to adjust the length, it seemed to be an easy process?
Strada, from your post it appears you aren't aware of the bolts that can be loosened to make the bars longer or shorter. Read what Callisto wrote about that.
Now, are you saying that you have tried to adjust the length but they don't adjust to be able to move them forward or rearward enough? I have yet to need to have one all the way forward or all the way rearward, but it does appear there is enough adjustability to allow that. When I have needed to adjust the length, it seemed to be an easy process?
Oh yeah, I had to adjust it so that the bars would clamp in different spots. The rails aren't parallel and splay out towards the rear of the vehicle. Adjusting them isn't that big of a deal, just kind of a hassle. My only criticism was to be of M-B saying that the rails are only supposed to clamped in the one spot, and not adjustable fore/aft.
Oh yeah, I had to adjust it so that the bars would clamp in different spots. The rails aren't parallel and splay out towards the rear of the vehicle. Adjusting them isn't that big of a deal, just kind of a hassle. My only criticism was to be of M-B saying that the rails are only supposed to clamped in the one spot, and not adjustable fore/aft.
Not sure if by 2010 they had slightly changed the profile, but for me there are definite limits on adjustment both fore and aft. I can spread them apart maybe another 18 inches, which helps when carrying a paddleboard, but that's it.
As for the MB "approved" locations, they seem minimize wind noise at highway speeds. If you move the front crossbar forward, you hear more whistling through the moonroof.
Not sure if by 2010 they had slightly changed the profile, but for me there are definite limits on adjustment both fore and aft. I can spread them apart maybe another 18 inches, which helps when carrying a paddleboard, but that's it.
As for the MB "approved" locations, they seem minimize wind noise at highway speeds. If you move the front crossbar forward, you hear more whistling through the moonroof.
I don't recall how much adjustment there was... IIRC I couldn't put them much further fore/aft than in the pic I posted. I really should just take them off, as I have a set of Thule racks that clamp on to the rails, and are much easier to adjust. They have more usable contact area as well because they are flat, instead of being bowed like the factory ones. I have multiple bike and tandem attachments that just won't work on the factory ones, without a lot of adapters from Thule. And the bikes would still end up being splayed out instead of upright due to the curve.
If you're using your racks on a regular basis, I wouldn't even think twice about putting the Thule on there. I've had Yakima racks and accessories for 15 years (basically the same as Thule) and they are MUCH more user friendly than ANY car manufacturer's racks.
If you're using your racks on a regular basis, I wouldn't even think twice about putting the Thule on there. I've had Yakima racks and accessories for 15 years (basically the same as Thule) and they are MUCH more user friendly than ANY car manufacturer's racks.
I have the tandem rack on now, but it's definitely non-aero and pretty noisy. Hoping we use the tandem more often to justify keeping it on (it's a PIA to put on/take off). Otherwise hitch rack works great for singles.
Oh yeah, I had to adjust it so that the bars would clamp in different spots. The rails aren't parallel and splay out towards the rear of the vehicle. Adjusting them isn't that big of a deal, just kind of a hassle. My only criticism was to be of M-B saying that the rails are only supposed to clamped in the one spot, and not adjustable fore/aft.
Sometimes I wish my Mercedes was a Chevy ... NOT.
The specification as to where to put the bars is zero problem for me and I doubt it really is for anybody.
Yup, I certainly know what you mean about noisey. I have noticed, though, that some of the "aero" attachments you can buy do make a noticeable difference. Usually these are only put on the front bar, but since the noise is only real issue when there are no bikes up (since there ain't no way you're gonna quiet that stuff down), maybe you could also experiment with some different add-ons for the rear bar. Also, you might consider adding another (or multiple) aero-thingy backwards on the front bar to help smooth the air as it goes over the bar. A little trial and error might be worth it.
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