P0305 - #5 misfire




Error returned, but this time not self resetting. Changed the coil - whoops, no help. Changed the spark plug - whoops, no help either.
Saw there had been a pending left side oxy sensor error. Pulled out my iCarsoft i980 and, after poking around, found my way to the fuel and emissions system monitoring. At idle, left side post cat (FYI it's labeled TWC, or Three Way Converter) oxy sensor holds a steady 1 mV, while right side fluctuates around 750 mV.
Ordered a post cat oxy sensor Bosch 16747 and will brave installing it. Hope the cat didn't get messed up from the marginal oxy sensor and rich mixture.




I pulled the new spark plug back out, and it's clean as when it was installed. Now, I didn't do any driving, but did a fair amount of idling, and so that's making me think it's a plugged fuel injector. I can hear the #5 injector ticking, sounds just like the others, and there are no fuel injector error messages - so it's a fine lil mystery.
What doesn't make sense is that the problem had such sudden onset. That doesn't seem consistent with an injector plugging or otherwise failing.
I ordered a used ebay injector - risk $20 bux - and will try swapping it out. Anything I need to know about that lil adventure?












It sounds crazy, but I've heard all kinds of stories about people losing stuff inside cylinders. If it's small enough it'll just bounce up and down until finding its way out the exhaust valve. The combustion chamber is such a violent place that all kinds of junk can go in there and not cause problems. It's when you have a crappy air filter, and you get a steady influx of grit, that the engine wear really goes up.
About the detected misfires: I think the system detects the misfire by looking at pulses from the upstream oxy sensor. Depending on the timing, that's how it localizes it to one cylinder. 0300 is "can't figure out for sure which cylinder it is" and 030x is "it corresponds to cylinder x". Too bad the system doesn't seem to inform you whether it's a lean misfire (too little fuel) or rich (no spark).
I probably ought to replace my upstream sensors if possible, 'cause they're used to fine tune the air/fuel ratio. Anyone know if swapping those is a reasonable job? Do it without removing the exhaust?
Last edited by eric_in_sd; Mar 31, 2018 at 03:27 PM.
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Here are the plugs from that side. If I didn't know better, I'd swear it was #7 misfiring. I'll swap the new coil in #7 and see what happens. Pretty weird the system would mistake #7 for #5 though.
#8 plug looks a little hot.
This was after driving for about five miles in open loop mode, btw.








Put a new coil and plug on #7. No help. WTF.
That bank 2 upstream oxy sensor looks near impossible to get out without dropping the driveshaft or something. You guys know if there's a trick to it? I've got the sensors and, at 150k miles, it wouldn't hurt to change them. But the left side upstream is buried deeper than my grandma.
I wonder if fuel injector cleaner would help. Maybe it's marginal injectors here, there, everywhere.
Last edited by eric_in_sd; Apr 5, 2018 at 10:53 PM.








It's crazy to think the coils are only expected to last 100k miles. Hell, they've got a minimal duty cycle; half that of a four-cylinder with one coil.
Last edited by eric_in_sd; Apr 7, 2018 at 06:54 PM.




After about 30 miles, the fuel injector cleaner doesn't seem to be helping. It's a little odd that the injectors would be gummed up on one side and not the other.
Last edited by eric_in_sd; Apr 9, 2018 at 09:21 AM.
After about 30 miles, the fuel injector cleaner doesn't seem to be helping. It's a little odd that the injectors would be gummed up on one side and not the other.
the fuel injector cleaner doesnt work when the vehicle is running, rather when the engine is shut off hot and left alone (and the fuel/detergent in the fuel lines) to heat soak a bit
Look at both O2 sensors on that side, does just one read stuck at no voltage and the other cycles? You should have B1S1, B1S2, B2S1, B2S2 or something to that effect. Look at both bank 2 sensors and compare the #1 pre cat to the #2 post cat. The second is only used to verify cat functions, meaning it should always read just a little leaner than the first, but they should cycle. If it's stuck one way, and they both are, the o2 sensors aren't the root cause of the issue, most likely. They also won't cause a misfire on one cyl. Agreed with above, move the coils around and see if the misfire moves.




Look at both O2 sensors on that side, does just one read stuck at no voltage and the other cycles? You should have B1S1, B1S2, B2S1, B2S2 or something to that effect. Look at both bank 2 sensors and compare the #1 pre cat to the #2 post cat. The second is only used to verify cat functions, meaning it should always read just a little leaner than the first, but they should cycle. If it's stuck one way, and they both are, the o2 sensors aren't the root cause of the issue, most likely. They also won't cause a misfire on one cyl. Agreed with above, move the coils around and see if the misfire moves.
The S1's only show lambda and current (because wideband?) Both S1 lambdas are right around 1 when closed loop. The current hovers right around zero for both.
If there's an actual spark misfire, I'll be damned if I can figure out where it is; it's definitely not on #5 or #7.
I'm contemplating changing the #8 injector, but that's a pain - I could do the #5 without pulling out the rail completely, but #8 is tighter. Damn.
The codes are persistently 0300 and 0305. Not persistently any of the others.
You guys know any way to disable the open loop mode? It's a pain to diagnose with it regularly going open loop.
Thanks guys for thinking about this.
Last edited by eric_in_sd; Apr 10, 2018 at 09:37 PM.




While I had the plugs out, opted to show my boy how the spark plugs fire, sticking a plug in the #5 coil. No sparkie.
Swapped out for the new coil - well, whaddya know. Sparkie sparkie.
Now - did it have multiple problems (fuel injectors dirty?) or was it that I needed to clear the DTCs after replacing the coil the first time? I figured the computer would self clear after every power down, but maybe not.
It's great to find the problem, but boy do I feel like a dummy.
While I had the plugs out, opted to show my boy how the spark plugs fire, sticking a plug in the #5 coil. No sparkie.
Swapped out for the new coil - well, whaddya know. Sparkie sparkie.
Now - did it have multiple problems (fuel injectors dirty?) or was it that I needed to clear the DTCs after replacing the coil the first time? I figured the computer would self clear after every power down, but maybe not.
It's great to find the problem, but boy do I feel like a dummy.
Hi there,
My wife's GL550 (2009) got the same error this morning - "P0305/misfire in cylinder 5". Was your issue solely the coil pack? I've never replaced the plugs/packs on her car and it's got around 135k on it now. Any recommendations for which packs you used when you fixed yours? Thanks




My wife's GL550 (2009) got the same error this morning - "P0305/misfire in cylinder 5". Was your issue solely the coil pack? I've never replaced the plugs/packs on her car and it's got around 135k on it now. Any recommendations for which packs you used when you fixed yours? Thanks
The coils are dumb, so it is a mystery to me how they end up failing. They don't make 'em like they used to.
Bosch coils are made by Delphi, who probably was the OE supplier. Just don't get Chinesium.
The misfire errors are only reporting a slowing of the crankshaft when a particular cylinder should fire. It just means the cylinder wasn't making torque on its ignition stroke.
The fuel injectors are generally reliable, but they may get gummed.


