GL350 front CV boot, axle removal
08-03-2018, 03:57 AM
#1
Newbie
Thread Starter
GL350 front CV boot, axle removal
I have a GL350 x164 with a front passenger side outer CV boot leaking. I went in to start a front air suspension replacement with some remanufactured airmatic replacement shock/springs and noticed the outer CV boot leaking. I ordered a new boot from Mercedes part# 164-330-06-85 Was going to start in on replacing this boot while replacing the shock and wanted to see what needs to come off and if any one had any tips on how to best go about this.
Things I'm wondering about:
How to best separate the axle from the rotor
How to best pull the axle out of the differential
How to separate the axle to get the boot on once I have the axle out
Things I'm wondering about:
How to best separate the axle from the rotor
How to best pull the axle out of the differential
How to separate the axle to get the boot on once I have the axle out
08-03-2018, 03:01 PM
#3
Pass side? Replace the whole cv joint. Trust me. Buy the most expensive aftermarket/ reman one you can afford. The cheap ones are junk and you will be redoing it shortly after. Oem ones are obnxiously expensive.
On separation from hub- there will be a lot of banging. Split the upper joint of the hub first so you don’t damage the bearing when you beat it with the largest hammer you have. Some come out fast, others require persuasion.
On separation from the diff- just pull hard on the joint- it will pop out. If it doesn’t- insert a wedge between the inner body of the cv joint and the diff - there will be some play - enough to jam something in there and then gently with a hammer push the wedge in until the cv joint comes out. But more often than not just a good pull will take it out.
On separation from hub- there will be a lot of banging. Split the upper joint of the hub first so you don’t damage the bearing when you beat it with the largest hammer you have. Some come out fast, others require persuasion.
On separation from the diff- just pull hard on the joint- it will pop out. If it doesn’t- insert a wedge between the inner body of the cv joint and the diff - there will be some play - enough to jam something in there and then gently with a hammer push the wedge in until the cv joint comes out. But more often than not just a good pull will take it out.
Last edited by alx; 08-03-2018 at 03:05 PM.
The following users liked this post:
Slap Shot (08-04-2018)
The following users liked this post:
Slap Shot (08-04-2018)
08-03-2018, 08:21 PM
#5
MBWorld Fanatic!
Air hammer is the normal method people use to push the axle through the hub for removal. Prybar gently between axle and diff will pop it out, it requires a bit of a sharp pull to get it over the snap ring, but not a lot of force.
Clamp the center section of the axle in a vise, remove the damaged boot, and then hammer the outer or inner joint housing off if it doesn't slip right off. Clean everything, re-grease, and install new boot. Not a huge deal, but messy and time consuming.
Clamp the center section of the axle in a vise, remove the damaged boot, and then hammer the outer or inner joint housing off if it doesn't slip right off. Clean everything, re-grease, and install new boot. Not a huge deal, but messy and time consuming.
The following users liked this post:
Slap Shot (08-04-2018)
08-08-2018, 05:29 PM
#6
Newbie
Thread Starter
Follow up question after some work on the axle:
I was able to get the cv axle out but wasn't able to get the joint off to replace the boot, I then took it into a machinist still no luck getting the joint off. Therefore as alx recommended I need to replace the passenger side front drive shaft/axle. Just wondering what you guys recommend as a good quality after market brand that you have had good luck with. I see Mercedes also offers remanufactured axles now as well. Although they are still over $500 it is still much cheaper than a new one. The part info on that is Remanufactured Drive Shaft- Mercedes-Benz (164-330-19-01-80).
Let me know what you guys recommend and if anyone knows the torque for the axle nut that will be helpful information as well when I go to install the new one.
I was able to get the cv axle out but wasn't able to get the joint off to replace the boot, I then took it into a machinist still no luck getting the joint off. Therefore as alx recommended I need to replace the passenger side front drive shaft/axle. Just wondering what you guys recommend as a good quality after market brand that you have had good luck with. I see Mercedes also offers remanufactured axles now as well. Although they are still over $500 it is still much cheaper than a new one. The part info on that is Remanufactured Drive Shaft- Mercedes-Benz (164-330-19-01-80).
Let me know what you guys recommend and if anyone knows the torque for the axle nut that will be helpful information as well when I go to install the new one.
Last edited by Slap Shot; 08-08-2018 at 06:28 PM. Reason: add information
08-27-2018, 01:32 AM
#7
Newbie
Thread Starter
Just some follow up information for the replacement of the CV axle and the air struts.
For the Front Right CV axle ended up going with the Mercedes remanufactured axle, installed and works great, the torque on the axle to hub nut is 260NM + an additional 45 degrees.
As for the Air Struts went with a set of remanufactured front air struts from Suncore Industries. Liked the fact that they were OEM parts that were rebuilt and tested so there will be no issue with fitment. They were also very reasonably priced compared to the new options that are out there. So far these new air struts have been working great and they resolved the front suspension drop that would occur overnight on the original air struts(originals lasted 80,000 miles)
For the Front Right CV axle ended up going with the Mercedes remanufactured axle, installed and works great, the torque on the axle to hub nut is 260NM + an additional 45 degrees.
As for the Air Struts went with a set of remanufactured front air struts from Suncore Industries. Liked the fact that they were OEM parts that were rebuilt and tested so there will be no issue with fitment. They were also very reasonably priced compared to the new options that are out there. So far these new air struts have been working great and they resolved the front suspension drop that would occur overnight on the original air struts(originals lasted 80,000 miles)
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03-24-2020, 05:17 PM
#8
Junior Member
Since it's been 18 months, how is your CV joint holding up? I'm looking at Cardone which run about $120 in Canada (equivalent to $80 US). It seems the remanufactured ones are more expensive than the new ones, so I am guessing they take old Mercedes ones and remanafacture those. I am replacing my front struts, front upper control arms, and sway bar links. I just saw that I will need to replace the driver's CV joint as well. From what I've seen it looks to be a fairly straightforward DIY type of repair.
03-25-2020, 12:28 PM
#9
Member
Since it's been 18 months, how is your CV joint holding up? I'm looking at Cardone which run about $120 in Canada (equivalent to $80 US). It seems the remanufactured ones are more expensive than the new ones, so I am guessing they take old Mercedes ones and remanafacture those. I am replacing my front struts, front upper control arms, and sway bar links. I just saw that I will need to replace the driver's CV joint as well. From what I've seen it looks to be a fairly straightforward DIY type of repair.
One thing to note, be sure you have a torque wrench and impact wrench capable of removing the axle nut and then torquing to the right spec. The tighening sequence is 192ftlb, then 45 degrees, then 45 more. I believe this puts the total clamp torque in the 400+ftlb range.
