Hello all,

I have searched the forums and cant find anything replicating my problem with the Airmatic.

Shortly after I bought my GL, the airmatic started acting funny. The front rises to a normal high level but the rear seems that it only rises half way the level it should.
Also, when raised, the vehicle is bouncy like those low riders and theres sounds from underneath like metals are grinding either from the differential or suspension parts and i can tell its metal to metal friction.
Then, I took the car in at the stealership, and they said that it was due to the rear air bags being bad.

Shortly after that the fronts went out so I went ahead and replaced all 4 all the way around with the arnotts. I did the job myself as I seen it being fairly easy for an amateur like me.

The problem is still there. When raised the car actually bounces and rocks exactly like those show off low rider cars, and then shortly after that I get the ”Airmatic Malfunction” message in the dash. To lower it, I have to turn the car off and then lower it.

Please note that when the car is in normal Mode I have no issues whatsoever.

Thanks in advance for your help

You shouldn't really be driving around with it in raised mode.

It is supposed to handle that way in raised mode. Really bumpy and not smooth.

You probably have an issue with the compressor. It's cracked or leaking.

Also check your rear levelling rods. They might be seized and explain why the rear isn't as high as should be.

At 20+ miles is bouncy like the body wants to tear off the subframe. I test drove another one and no it didnt even bounce not even 10% of this.

Are the sensors next to the airbags/struts?
Could it also be the struts?

Do you mean after driving 20 miles?

When raised, (it is called off road mode for a reason) ours handles like it's on stilts and is bouncy and hard. That's the way it is supposed to be.

If you're getting an error. It's most likely either a compressor cooling down error or the generic one. Either one can mean your compressor is broken and cracked.

Of course it can be the struts that are leaking, but since you replaced them with new ones we can safely assume they're ok.

The leveling rods are on each corner. They're plastic and attached to the leveling sensor. They're essentially likttle plastic arms and can get seized due to rust and salt over time. You can use a lubricant or anti seize spray or opt to replace.

Reading the error code will let uiu know exactly what the computer thinks is wrong. Although I high suspecr a cracked or leaking compressor.

I assume that the comressor is fine as I can hear it running and the front raises fine. If it was the compressor wouldnt it drop completely?

i get the generic Airmatic Malfunction. I used to get the Compressor Cooling Down when the fronts got shot.

I mean driving at speeds of 20+mph. Even at 5mph its bouncy as hell.

I will check the sensors and will see.

No.

My compressor was cracked but it stil could create enough pressure to fill the struts to normal mode at times. Just not off road mode.

Also if you had leaking struts and drove with it for a while, either you or the previous owner, that could have forced the compressor to be on its way out regardless.

To be clear. Is it bouncy in normal mode or only raised mode?

Bouncy in raised mode is normal.

This is th fr ront leveling arm. The rear one is under the vehicle by the front of the rear wheel. If you can't move it by hand then it is seized

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As soon as the front droped I only drover her for about 10 miles home. Parked her and didnt driver her till I got the struts.
In normal mode the car sits and drives in normal mode height.

In normal mode it drives perfect. As soon as I raise her, she starts jumping and bouncing like a wild bull and the front is higher than the rear.

best to check with star/das what the code is telling you, but if you systematically have eththe error in off road mode you can check the compressor itself if it is cracked.

But everything so far points to the compressor being burned out and cracked and your rear rods being seized.

ok thanks. I’ll start with the rods and see what happens.

The front I replaced the complete air strut ( theyre 1 piece if i am correct).
Rears I replaced the Air Springs Only. The rear struts I have not replaced. I dont know if the previous owner has.

The compressor can be noticed when running but its not too noisy or overly loud. It does the hissing sound when raising it or dropinng it. Also, when locking the car it does the air compression/decompression hissing sound as well.

It takes no more than a minute to raise it. But after its done raising physically, the dash says Raising for about 3-5 minutes and then the Malfunction message comes on.

So I did listen to the compressor as I was raising her and lowering as well. It ran as it raised her and then it stopped. I did this 3-4 times and noticed nothing abnormal. I think the compressor is fine.

Then yesterday I got underneath and messed with the leveling sensor and those seem to be loose and normal. I went ahead and sorayed them with anti seize libricant. I got underneath and checked them again. Everything seemed normal.

Also, I went ahead and measured the height between the tires and the fender on raised level, and I got 7 1/4” inches in the front and 5 1/2” inches in the rear. Do you know the correct measurements when raised?

I am fearing the rear shocks may be shot.

were you able to get the codes read? It may shine some light on what the car thinks is wrong.


also....did you ever reset the airmatic height when you replaced the rear airbags and front strutss?

No I dont have any MB diagnostic tools.
I did not reset the airmatic. However, I had this issue long before I replaced the front struts and the rear airbags.

Anyhow, I have no choice but to head at the dealer and see what they come up. I just hope that they wont tell me again that my airbags are shot in the back because I am going to punch 🥊 the service guy in the nose and I really mean it. This dealer is the worst MB dealer I have ever dealt with.

I will let you all know what they say.

Thank you all for your input and hep

yes. But if you don’t reset the airmatic height it will revert back to the stored levels from before.

This is might be the cause of your discrepancy in heights from front and back.

An indy with the right tools can do this too.
https://www.benzshops.com/?gclid=EAI...yAAEgLACfD_BwE

sorry to hear about your dealer

i also lust for a diesel...just not an American one anymore. Too many issues with dpf, sludge, timing chains etc.

have never heard of issues issues in Europe so I suspect epa emissions plays a huge part.

The basics havent changed.

Why dont you order an appropriate scanner so you can do it yourself? Mb2carsoft will save you the drive.

Honestly I have never seen or used one Benzes. Ive always serviced them at the dealer and have never had any major issues especially with the C Class.

On the other hand with VAG vehicles ive always had issues that needed to start with a scanner so ive had the Ross Tech VAG com and it has saved me a lot of time and money on the A8s.

What kind of diesel do you have? I am replacing all of my cars with diesel now and hopefully I find a nice GL.

i have a basic scanner, but luckily the dealer is 5 min away; and I have an extended warranty that is great so far.

No no I don’t have a diesel. We were looking for one when we bought our 2010 gl...but glad we settled on the 450 considering the options it does have.

The next one one will probably be a 550 . Finding the right options in a diesel will be too difficult I think as well as the issues with sludge and dpf in USA Mercedes diesels.

Really before you take the plunge, look at some of the issues raised on diesel forums. It’s eyeopening.

Ok I did read up on it but I see it with pre 2008 models. I am not finding any info on the 2013+?
enlighten me please

the om642 is essentially still the same block with the same underlying issues that plague the engine in the USA.....despite software updates that have come along the way.

The most reliable ones are the pre 2008 cdi ones actually, the ones without bluetex urea injection.

There are issues with the adblue tank heater failing, crystalizzarion of the ad blue tank, leaking lines, and ensuring the tank is full in winter for fear of gelling.
Have you noticed I haven't even gotten to the engine yet.

Apparently the engine oil issues stem from the superheated oil being fed from the turbo back to the crankcase instead of a dedicated water cooled turbo causing sludge and etc... Also the dpf clogs on even newer e/ml250 models with part availability unknown.
Injector and further sensor issues are commonplace. Plus timing chain rattle, stretch and broken plastic guides.

The diesel for me has always been a workhorse engine. Dependable and not needing kid gloves to maintain. It actually can be abused ; but sadly that's not the case from what I read.

This site gives moreinsight .

http://www.stephensservice.com/bluet...ssuesproblems/


Hope it helps.