OM642 2011 GL350 BLUETEC
I stuck a hose down the filler neck and retrieved about 7 gallons before sucking only air. Gauge shows just under a half tank now.
I thought I would just disconnect the incoming fuel line to the filter, turn on the ignition and let the fuel pump, pump the remaining 9 gallons or so out of the tanks. But no luck. I get small spurts and then nothing. Even with cycling of the key I cannot get a steady stream. I have gotten about a gallon out this way, but it took an hour and now seems to be just blowing air. The pump seems to run normally when I turn the key to on, but runs for exactly 30 seconds and then stops. I just keep cycling the key to get little spurts but this is obviously not working.
Can anyone help me with an idea how I can remove the remaining gasoline without dropping the tanks?
In advance, bless you.....
Last edited by jayres; Oct 28, 2018 at 10:59 PM. Reason: misspelling




could you
1) directly power the fuel pump to run continuously
2) connect vacuum to the fuel line to suck out the fuel
3) fill the tank with diesel, vacuum it from fill hole, repeat 3-4 times
good luck




Just throwing out an idea... Is there an access port(s) under the rear seat for the tank? For something like the fuel level senders? If so, access the tank via the inside of the car, remove the level senders and suck it directly from there.
As mentioned above, I would think "hot wiring" the pump should work as well. I would think you can do that via the fuel pump relay under the hood - but I wouldn't want to make a guess as to which pins you have to jump without researching it.
Last edited by DennisG01; Oct 29, 2018 at 11:03 AM.
thirdly you can but a electric pump from harbor freight and try sucking it dry, whatever you do do not start the car without cleaning out the tank those injectors are very expensive
The potential expense is significant and I wouldn’t cheap out attempting a DIY solution. Rather, let professionals deal with it by the book.
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Thanks to everyone for all the great ideas. I am an MB certified tech myself---I received my training in 1978-79 so as the years have gone by I find myself swamped by so many models that it takes multiple resources to get to the bottom of some issues. I run an independent shop and nearly all of my customers have had varying experiences with the local dealer that cause them to look elsewhere for their repairs. And the dealer shop foreman is a close friend who has been there for 45 years so he often helps me with problems since he has access to info that I do not. In this case the customer had his car towed to the dealer who quoted him $1,350 + for the repair and, worse, showed no interest whatsoever in doing the work. Customer called me and asked if I could do the work and maybe save some money, so the car was towed to my shop.
After some due diligence I was able to put together the scenario with this model which is:
- the fuel pump is a 4 speed unit and without the engine running, runs for 30 seconds and turns off
- the pump is located on the passenger side of the saddle tank and when it does not have fuel surrounding it, will not pump
- this means that if you pump all the fuel out of the passenger side, manually, you cannot get the pump to pump the fuel from the driver's side---Thank You Mercedes

- I manually sucked all of the fuel out of the passenger side and was left with 8+ gallons in the driver's side
- After removing the fuel from the passengers side either by siphoning or running the pump (I used both methods successfully) go to the passenger side and lift up the rear seat
- After pulling up the carpet you will have remove 3 electronic boxes by unplugging and setting and setting them aside---various brackets will have to go also and then the wiring harness will need to pulled up and out of the way with a bungee cord
- At this point you remove a large rubberized disc covering a circular opening above the fuel level sender unit, that is NOT cut out or open!!! Thank You Mercedes

- Pick your tool of choice, either a drill bit and a nibbler, or a mini right angle die grinder with a cutting disc and very carefully cut out the disc and remove it---you must be very careful not to exceed a depth of more than 3/4" inch or you will either cut the fuel lines or damage the sender
- Once the cutout is removed you will have to either buy an $80 tool to remove the sender unit lock-ring nut OR you can very carefully cut the ring with a die grinder with a fluted carbide bit---the use of a bit is the fastest and least expensive
- Disconnect the two fuel lines to the sender---a special tool is required or you can "cheat" them off with some ingenuity. They are of the "push to clip" variety.
- You will have to buy a new plastic ring and rubber sealing gasket, but they are in stock and cheap at $39 (wholesale)
- You cannot easily remove the sending unit so merely lift it out and then suction out the remaining fuel. Once I did that I took clean rags and mopped the tank till it looked brand new and dry
- Fill the tank with10 gallons of diesel
- Reinstall the sender with the new ring
- Buy a tube of quick-dry body sealer from a body shop supply house. Use this sealer to put the disc back in place and seal it. Done correctly this will look OEM.
- Fill the main tank with another 10 gallons of diesel
- Car will start instantly and problem will go away
My dealer contact send me a page from the workshop manual that shows the procedure but is very sparse on instructions. I would not recommend this to be done by someone that does own not a complete set of shop tools along with an air compressor and etc. Also to note is that this is at least a 2 day job, even for the dealer.
Last I want to vent a rant at Mercedes:
After over 100 years of selling diesel passenger cars, Mercedes has FAILED to provide an intelligent, suitable means for draining gasoline from their cars. In fact they have assured GREAT difficulty with their over-engineered designs and show a clear disregard for their customers. With the advent of the CDI systems the contamination of fuel has become super-critical and gasoline sent into a CDI or later system will destroy very expensive components quickly. The dealer told me that if the customer starts their car with gas, the repair cost is $12,000 on this model. Not funny, Mercedes.
Also to note---in England their is a 24 service that will come directly to the service station where you wrongly pumped gas into a diesel car, and will pump out all the gas while you wait. They have a guaranteed arrival time of 45 minutes and a minimum charge of $125. I doubt they are successful with saddle tanks, but they state that someone in England pumps gas into their diesel car once every 3 minutes. So Mercedes KNOWS this yet they still do nothing to assist.
Photos attached.
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