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2010 GL350 DPF/SCR/ADBLUE Delete

 
Old 01-19-2019, 05:26 AM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by goalie_k View Post
The SCR is plugged in? Normally you have make a teach in prior to the removal and unplug the SCR control module. But now its in countdown mode it can be a big headache.
It appears the tuner didn't disable it 100% or they must have missed something due to lack of knowledge. No problem. As stated above, I've found a possible solution.
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Old 01-19-2019, 10:23 AM
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You can also code the dash as well to help eliminate the fault with developer mode in DAS.

Your issue is there will be a stored fault in both the scr and ecu an you need a DAS to clear them and sometimes that has to be done online. These need to be cleared prior to loading the tuning file. Also the 2009- 2010 can be picky for some odd reason.

Just for ****s unplug the battery for 10 min (touch the + and - together) - disconnect the SCR module in the trunk and see what happens.
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Old 01-19-2019, 12:38 PM
  #53  
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My question is why wouldn't the original EGR/DPF/SCR/DEF delete tune this start countdown out?
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Old 01-19-2019, 06:01 PM
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Originally Posted by chsu74 View Post
My question is why wouldn't the original EGR/DPF/SCR/DEF delete tune this start countdown out?
I honestly don't know. It appears OETuning isn't willing to help me with it anymore. I told them what to do in the beginning and there seemed to be a confusion over the phone and they supposedly went back and deleted things they forgot to delete. Everything was working properly although I had CEL code P2047 for "Reductant Injection Valve Circuit/Open Bank 1 Unit 1" which I assume is related to the AdBlue tank being unplugged from the SCR. I didn't realize it would eventually initiate that catastrophic countdown.

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Old 01-19-2019, 06:06 PM
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Originally Posted by goalie_k View Post
You can also code the dash as well to help eliminate the fault with developer mode in DAS.

Your issue is there will be a stored fault in both the scr and ecu an you need a DAS to clear them and sometimes that has to be done online. These need to be cleared prior to loading the tuning file. Also the 2009- 2010 can be picky for some odd reason.

Just for ****s unplug the battery for 10 min (touch the + and - together) - disconnect the SCR module in the trunk and see what happens.
So, if I unplug the battery for 10m and plug it back in you're saying the countdown would be gone and I could hurry and get whatever causing it to start counting down tuned out of the ECU before it re-initiates? Also, do you think I shouId unplug the SCR module and remove the fuse after to avoid this problem?
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Old 01-21-2019, 10:17 AM
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Originally Posted by quron_southwest View Post
So, if I unplug the battery for 10m and plug it back in you're saying the countdown would be gone and I could hurry and get whatever causing it to start counting down tuned out of the ECU before it re-initiates? Also, do you think I shouId unplug the SCR module and remove the fuse after to avoid this problem?
I have seen that work one time on a early 2010 GL. Most 164s do not require the scr to be unpluged, but almost all sprinters do.
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Old 01-30-2019, 08:26 PM
  #57  
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UPDATE!!!!

To the point of course! MPGs as high as 30 cruising at 70mph usually. I haven't refueled in 15 days considering I've been out of town and back twice. No more turbo surging. Car still starts even when the countdown on dash says 0. Make sure Adblue is actually deleted from the ECU though. I'd imagine I'll have to unplug the SCR module in the trunk to just get the message off the dash completely, but I'm not too sure. Exhaust smell is noticeable. No black smoke or anything. Even on kickdowns and hard acceleration, but the odor is more potent after, obviously. It might be a bright grey color though. Definitely noticeable on a cold start.
In conclusion, if you're willing to deal with the exhaust smell and spend around $1600 and never have to deal with catastrophic emission failures, better performance and mileage then this is for you.

Good Luck.
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Old 02-18-2019, 10:44 PM
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thanks for taking the plunge and doing this mod.

Seems you are mostly happy with it, but dealing with smell and the constant message about adblue starts in the dash.

Is the smell inside the car also? or just outside?

I was also looking at OETUNING, but with your experience, am I correct to concluded that you don't recommend sending the ECU to them for flashing?

thanks
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Old 02-19-2019, 02:29 AM
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Originally Posted by speed2much View Post
thanks for taking the plunge and doing this mod.

Seems you are mostly happy with it, but dealing with smell and the constant message about adblue starts in the dash.

Is the smell inside the car also? or just outside?

I was also looking at OETUNING, but with your experience, am I correct to concluded that you don't recommend sending the ECU to them for flashing?

thanks
Nope. I highly recommend them. They just probably wonít put the emissions back on the ECU. Other than that they did everything right. I just missed the part that the car will still start after the countdown reaches zero. The smell isnít even all that bad. Itís only potent in the cold and after high engine speeds maybe 3200+. Other than that, Iím still happy with the tune. I average 27mpg going 70. I highly recommend this.
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Old 02-19-2019, 09:52 PM
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what did you end up paying for the tune and all the deletes? Don't see any pricing for the deletes on their page.

thx
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Old 02-19-2019, 09:54 PM
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Originally Posted by speed2much View Post
what did you end up paying for the tune and all the deletes? Don't see any pricing for the deletes on their page.

thx
Each emission delete is $100 each. I bought the tune as well.
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Old 02-20-2019, 02:58 AM
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Originally Posted by quron_southwest View Post
Hi all, so my DPF failed over 10k miles ago, yes I've been very negligent for driving it that long after and not getting it fixed. But, I've finally decided to purchase a delete pipe from BuzzKen because now the car is going into limp mode. Pipe should be here in a couple of days. I'm well aware that my ECU needs to be tuned in order to make this work as intended. So to the point, what all needs to be removed from the ECU? And also, will I need to cut any of my exhaust pipes for this to fit, like the pipe on the SCR? The delete pipe itself is bolt-on. Thanks
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Hi!

Did you car go into the limp mode when the temperatures drop below freezing?
It is possible that in-tank heater failed. This is a common problem. It doesn't present a problem until temperatures drop, because this is when the AdBlue greezes.
I know it doesn't matter to you in the end, but it's worth mentioninig.

Tnx
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Old 02-20-2019, 11:53 AM
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Planning on moving forward with the DPF delete pipe and tune from OETuning.
Question #1, does the delete pipe also remove the SCR or just the DPF?
Question #2, currently have code for NOx sensor (P2201 & P229F). After the pipe delete and tuning is complete, do I need to worry about the NOx sensor CEL code?

Thx
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Old 02-20-2019, 05:48 PM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by Mario_C View Post
Hi!

Did you car go into the limp mode when the temperatures drop below freezing?
It is possible that in-tank heater failed. This is a common problem. It doesn't present a problem until temperatures drop, because this is when the AdBlue greezes.
I know it doesn't matter to you in the end, but it's worth mentioninig.

Tnx
According to the dealer it failed, but I never got limp mode because of it in the cold and to be honest I thought something was wrong with the tank but it was just that when it gets empty you have to fill it to the top in order for the countdown to go away and I didnít know that. And after I topped it off I didnít have any more problems with it.
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Old 02-20-2019, 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by zerochills View Post
Planning on moving forward with the DPF delete pipe and tune from OETuning.
Question #1, does the delete pipe also remove the SCR or just the DPF?
Question #2, currently have code for NOx sensor (P2201 & P229F). After the pipe delete and tuning is complete, do I need to worry about the NOx sensor CEL code?

Thx
1) Yes, the delete pipe sits in place of both the DPF and SCR.
2) No. All sensors will be disabled upon delete of each emission system.
Make sure you delete the emissions from the ECU before you install the delete pipe. I heard that without the DPF or SCR youíll get limp mode and possibly the countdown from the SCR. Just make it clear with the tuner that you want to delete emissions systems to avoid any frustrations. Like I said, they did everything correctly. I was just not familiar with the countdown that will still come up even though the SCR is disabled. VEHICLE WILL CONTINUE TO START AFTER Ď0 STARTS REMAMINGí. Maybe I need to remove the SCR module itself to stop the countdown from showing up..? Other than that. I highly recommend this mod.
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Old 02-20-2019, 06:05 PM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by DennisG01 View Post
I agree - 13 seconds means something else was holding it back. But either way, it's nice to hear a real world report/review. I'll be curious to hear what your mileage is at various highway/city ratios once you get done "playing" with the new toy!

Peter - just a word of caution about that oil filter. I've cut open about 50 filters (not all mine, of course!). I've seen two Frams where the interior pleats came apart - essentially allowing unfiltered oil to pass right back into the engine. I have never seen this with another filter. The construction on the inside is inferior to other brands, as well. .......
Yeah, I was made aware of this by others and have since switched to Mann. I cut open the Fram after 5k kms and it was ok, but it's been given the absolute lowest ratings in head-to-head comparisons on-line. Thx so much for the heads-up just the same!!!
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Old 03-13-2019, 11:51 PM
  #67  
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Using diesel engine oil other than the MB specified 229.52

Originally Posted by peter2772000 View Post
We did the DEF/DPF/EGR delete on our 2013 ML350 back in November. Best $1400 I ever spent.

Bought the truck with 20k kms or 12k miles in September of 2017. Literally owned by an old lady. In the first year and under warranty, the DEF tank had to be replaced @ $3700 CAN and the EGR at $1700. The writing was on the wall after that...

- Installed an oil filter adapter which allows the use of a honking big spin-on oil filter for superior filtration
- Popped the belly pan and engine covers to allow for lower under-hood temps during the summer. Hopefully my oil cooler seals will appreciate the gesture
- Started running high-zinc content oil, first motorcycle oil and now Amsoil Dominator 20W50 oil for summer, and Signature series oil for winter. Hoping my timing chain will thank me by lasting much longer than they seem to presently
- Did the above-mentioned DEF/DPF/EGR. So no worries about clogging my DPF, especially now that I'm running high zinc/phosphor oil

Other than a noisy(er) first minute of engine operation when she's left out in sub-freezing temps, you can't tell a difference. No black smoke that I can detect, same power level.
And yes, I drank the Stephen's Garage Koolaid. No regrets to date whatsoever. The only regret was buying a diesel MB under the false impression that I was buying reliability. If I'd done my due diligence beforehand, I'd have never bought the truck even though I'd gotten it for a fantastic price.
But, I've made my bed and now I have to sleep in it. At least I'm trying to put the odds in my favour LOL


Is it because the EGR was deleted that the MB specified 229.52 diesel engine oil is no longer required? How is the oil that you're using now working out and what oil is regarded safe to use if the EGR is deleted?
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Old 03-15-2019, 06:16 PM
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Are you still driving the GL with the delete? I too am in socal and having a nightmare of bluetec issues with an RClass I just bought. I love driving it when it runs! Ugh. I see you are in LA area? I am going to PM you with some questions if you don't mind?
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Old 03-16-2019, 12:12 AM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by Trevor Simpson View Post
Are you still driving the GL with the delete? I too am in socal and having a nightmare of bluetec issues with an RClass I just bought. I love driving it when it runs! Ugh. I see you are in LA area? I am going to PM you with some questions if you don't mind?
Itís registered in another state.
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Old 03-16-2019, 12:21 AM
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ZERO STARTS (update)

To the point! Alright guys, so to stop getting the starts remaining counter, you have to unplug the SCR module and the fuses that are plugged in. Itís located in the trunk under the jack equipment. You have to remove that entire black styrofoam cover that holds everything. Then you should see it in the bottom left. Iíll provide photos later. Itís super simple no special tools required. But, you do have to PULL that styrofoam cover up.
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