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For those that did not remove the hardware. Just tuning out the EGR, DPF, DPF and flap. How would you approach the AEM update? Plug everything in right before arriving the dealership and after they do the ECU update, and all the codes pops up, have them replace whatever's necessary? Since the ECU is updated, will the original tune still work?
Hi Cronin, could you please send some photos on how you removed SCR module and fuses.
thanks
Originally Posted by ccrobin
Did you ever get the photos of the SCR module and fuses to unplug? I have to do that to mine tonight (just loaded the Stage 1 tuned file to my ECU this morning, and FedEx just dropped off my delete pipe).
Hi Cronin, could you please send some photos on how you removed SCR module and fuses.
thanks
Also, did you need to unplug the swirl flaps? If so, any tips on that would be appreciated.
My tuner indicated I would need to unplug the SCR and the Flaps, but said everything else could remain connected.
s-350d
Yeah! I wanna know too! I want to delete everything myself.. EGR, DPF, DEF CATs etc.. and physically take them away for good I wish someone did/made a good/nice down pipe that could go straight out and just leave the last mufflers intact I use to do that to my diesels Chevys and diesel Cruisers
I'm contemplating this for my GL 350 - was considering having a local exhaust shop cut out the DPF, install flanges in the exhaust line, and then make a straight pipe - thereby allowing the reinstallation of the DPF in the future if needed. Not 100% sure it's worth the hassle, but at least gives me options down the road when selling.
If I do that, I think I just need to block off the EGR, drain the AdBlue tank, and do a tune of the ECU. Does that sound correct? Can I leave the EGR in place (I assume if it's tuned out then it won't actually do anything?)
This seems like a much cheaper option than getting an entirely new pipe to install - I've seen where several people have just "hollowed out" their DPF as well .
The only thing I'm wondering about is switching to an aluminized galvanized part (since that's what my local exhaust shop makes, they don't have a mandrel bender.)
Any advice is greatly appreciated - I'm at 88k miles, have the PKT Inserts oil filter bit, and a PCV catch can installed. Am the original owner and have already done the timing chain once, and am about to pull the engine apart to do another oil cooler seal replacement on it I've had the EMP done, but the reality is that it's a great car, but a bit of a money pit - and if it costs me < $2k to keep it and stop the bleeding I'm all for that.
Hi, I loved the car, and did not do this, unfortunately it seized the engine at 200,000 miles, front main bearing seized the engine, bought a ragged out engine on ebay, transferred all my new parts to it and did the timing and oil seals, ran like a top, but was always nervous it would happen again, so I did the recall, 10K cost to the factory, now having a 48K warranty, sold the vehicle and bought a GL 550, DAMMM I MISS THE CAR AND THE ECONOMY, but just felt uneasy about the engine bearings, seems like its the achilles heel in this engine, otherwise, I loved it. dont go by the servive regimen in your book, do the oil change every 3K miles, like recommended for the sprinter, its the same engine and I seen then go for a million miles, mercedes is setting you up for failure recommending oil change at 10K miles, the idioy I bought it from did that until I purchased it with 50K miles, and it never filled up with more than 7 quarts of oil, tells me there was something eles in the crankcase, I can give you one guess, gunk that eventually clogged the oil intake. Its a great car, just have to get ahead of the issues before it becomes fatal, if I still had it, I would remove the oil pan and have the gunk cleaned out, major job I was quoted 3K to do, and tune it for sure and remove the excess junk for emissions, cheers mate.
Originally Posted by asuchander
Hello.
I'm contemplating this for my GL 350 - was considering having a local exhaust shop cut out the DPF, install flanges in the exhaust line, and then make a straight pipe - thereby allowing the reinstallation of the DPF in the future if needed. Not 100% sure it's worth the hassle, but at least gives me options down the road when selling.
If I do that, I think I just need to block off the EGR, drain the AdBlue tank, and do a tune of the ECU. Does that sound correct? Can I leave the EGR in place (I assume if it's tuned out then it won't actually do anything?)
This seems like a much cheaper option than getting an entirely new pipe to install - I've seen where several people have just "hollowed out" their DPF as well .
The only thing I'm wondering about is switching to an aluminized galvanized part (since that's what my local exhaust shop makes, they don't have a mandrel bender.)
Any advice is greatly appreciated - I'm at 88k miles, have the PKT Inserts oil filter bit, and a PCV catch can installed. Am the original owner and have already done the timing chain once, and am about to pull the engine apart to do another oil cooler seal replacement on it I've had the EMP done, but the reality is that it's a great car, but a bit of a money pit - and if it costs me < $2k to keep it and stop the bleeding I'm all for that.
08-31-2021, 08:45 PM
I've had the EMP done, but the reality is that it's a great car, but a bit of a money pit - and if it costs me < $2k to keep it and stop the bleeding I'm all for that.
