GL Class (X164) 2007-2012: GL320CDI, GL420CDI, GL450, GL550

No Start/Intermittent Start Problem

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Old Aug 1, 2019 | 09:30 PM
  #1  
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2014 GL550; 2010 GL450
No Start/Intermittent Start Problem

I just bought a 2010 GL450, 115K mi with quite a few issues I need to address. The one I'm tackling first is intermittent start/no-start condition. I'll explain further:
  • Sometimes it starts on first try. Other times it won't start after a dozen tries or until I give up. Won't start = no dash light except LED display and no crank.
  • When I open the door I get activity on the small display on the dash board (Mileage, temperature, gear switch position, etc.).
  • When I insert the smart key and turn to ON I most often don't get any lights on the dash and the engine won't crank.
  • Occasionally, I'll get the lights on the dash - the engine may crank and start normally or may not crank.
  • Occasionally, I don't don't get any light on the dash at all, except display, but when I move key to ignition the dash lights momentarily come on and then engine cranks and starts OK.
  • When key is in ON position with no dash light, the radio works, but nothing else (no horn or headlight). Hazard light and inside lights are always OK.
  • When the dash light finally comes on and I leave the key in that position (without cranking) it will go out after a few seconds to a minute

What I've done so far:
  1. I've read a lot on this forum and elsewhere about similar no start problems. Some suggested EIS, dead battery, starter, etc as the root cause.
  2. The 7-yr old battery that came with it couldn't hold charge of more than 12.5V so I replaced it with new battery. When engine is running the system voltage according to my diagnostic tool is 13.8 - 14.0 V.
  3. I have not checked starter yet but I don't see hesitation when it decides to crank and also don't think a bad starter will prevent dash lights and accessories from functioning (correct me if I'm wrong)
  4. I noticed that the steering column cover is lose and can slide up/down freely.
  5. I don't have access to Xentry/DAS, but I have a diagnostic tool that can scan all modules. There are faults on certain modules (AAC, Command/Audio, Rear door module, Rear SAM, Suspension, ESP, Instrument Cluster, ETC, and Motor electronics, EIS/EZS).
  6. I checked battery in key fobs and both are above 3V. The no-start problem happens with both keys.
Of the fault codes, the interesting ones I think are

  • ETC code C426-Start enable 'Drive Authorization System (DIAGNOSTIC TOOL/FBS)' has not been issued. This seems to have been stored 50,000 miles ago. Truck is at 115,000 miles now.
  • Instrument Cluster code 9115 - Control module AAC is not sending any data - I think this is related to my AC blowing hot problem and not the no start problem.
  • Motor electronics code 0521 (P2004) - Tumble flap Inlet manifold short circuit to ground. Flap stuck in Actuated position - Again, I understand this is due to some broken plastic piece in the intake manifold that I plan to address soon, but I don't see how this could be related to the no start issue.
  • EIS/EZS code 900516 - Terminal 30 Not present. I'm not sure what Terminal 30 is, but when I was browsing live data for other modules Terminal 30 appeared to be present with active data.
This is my first MB and have barely owned it for a day so I still have a lot to learn. I intend to DIY and only go to the dealer if absolutely necessary. Any pointers about what else to check to troubleshoot this no-start problem?

I leaning towards some intermittent connection in the key cylinder/module and hoping it's not EIS for obvious dealer-fix cost reasons. Let me know what you think it is or it is not.
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Old Aug 2, 2019 | 08:12 AM
  #2  
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2012 GL450
Check the battery cable to the starter. I believe there have been people with similar issues whose problem was solved by replacing the cable.
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Old Aug 2, 2019 | 03:29 PM
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2012 CLS550 Launch Edition, 2011 GL550
Hi,

I have a 2011 GL550. I have the same exact issues when I use the Key. If the P2S button is used, starts normally. I also get the EIS/EZS code 900516 - Terminal 30 Not present but If i put the key in and just hold it on the crank position It does start after a few seconds.
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Old Aug 2, 2019 | 11:57 PM
  #4  
tadiguy's Avatar
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2014 GL550; 2010 GL450
Originally Posted by DE_Bag
Check the battery cable to the starter. I believe there have been people with similar issues whose problem was solved by replacing the cable.
Thanks. I'll check. I remember reading that, but I thought that was only for no-crank problem. In my case I don't get lights on dash so I suspect problem is before the starter is even called into action.

Originally Posted by cartunes25
Hi,

I have a 2011 GL550. I have the same exact issues when I use the Key. If the P2S button is used, starts normally. I also get the EIS/EZS code 900516 - Terminal 30 Not present but If i put the key in and just hold it on the crank position It does start after a few seconds.
Interesting. I don't have P2S. Have you gotten any diagnostics from dealer? I took mine to them today and they say it's the EIS module and quoted $1200 to replace it. It doesn't look like a DIY job due to need to program to match VIN and other on-board computers. I want to investigate this some more because I'll for this to show up again after I pay for this repair. Yours working with P2S is perhaps an indication that some microswitch inside the module is intermittent so the smart key can't engage it but the P2S will bypass any such microswitch which is why it works. Of course this could also mean their diagnostics can't be right if what they think is damaged in the EIS module is common to the P2S button and the smart key. Let me know if you have any additional thoughts or information about diagnostics.

BTW: Did your problem show up after the truck had sat unused for a while (or battery dead)? I don't know how long mine sat before being sold to me but it must be at least a couple of months according to vehicle history report. I've seen elsewhere where people had similar no-start problem after their auxiliary or main battery died or car had sat unused for a while.
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Old Aug 3, 2019 | 05:32 AM
  #5  
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2014 GL550; 2010 GL450
Does anyone has instruction for removing the EIS module?
@antiguangenius, does the problem description and dealer diagnostics suggest a problem with the EIS? I'll PM you shortly.
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Old Aug 3, 2019 | 11:03 AM
  #6  
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From: NYC
2008 S550 4Matic, 2007 GL450, 2008 C300, 2018 GLE63 AMG
Originally Posted by tadiguy
Does anyone has instruction for removing the EIS module?
@antiguangenius, does the problem description and dealer diagnostics suggest a problem with the EIS? I'll PM you shortly.
90% of the time it’s the key Benz keys do have an electronic life span, either way I need both.... your gl450 is amongst the batch that Mercedes lost key data , that’s why they wanna change eis
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Old Aug 3, 2019 | 02:40 PM
  #7  
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2014 GL550; 2010 GL450
I'm searching for which panels to pop open to get it out. If you know how to, please let me know.
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Old Aug 4, 2019 | 09:29 AM
  #8  
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OK. Problem solved. For anyone interested, you must remove the radio to gain access to the EIS module (it takes all but 5 mins). Once I removed and cracked open the EIS module I confirmed one suspicion I had: i.e. there is an intermittent connection. The microswitch was fine. However, one of the connectors inside the module (the one that goes to the coil) had multiple cold solder joints so a quick touch up with soldering iron fixed this. I'll invest the $1,200 in some upgrades (or a truckload of bear?).
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Old May 24, 2020 | 05:16 PM
  #9  
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2010 ML 350 4matic left drive
Hello .have ssame problem 2010 ML350 diagnose with Autel MS908 PRO I have DTC : EZS- 900516- Terminal 30 not present .I will check EZS module connectors
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Old Sep 6, 2020 | 09:53 PM
  #10  
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w164
did you take any pictures or can you give a better discription of the wire to the coil?
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Old Jun 6, 2022 | 10:44 AM
  #11  
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2010 Mercedes GL450
I know this is an old post but did that fix take care of your TERMINAL 30 NOT PRESENT code??
THANKS,
JW,
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Old Jun 6, 2022 | 03:57 PM
  #12  
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2014 GL550; 2010 GL450
Originally Posted by joemoe22
I know this is an old post but did that fix take care of your TERMINAL 30 NOT PRESENT code??
THANKS,
JW,
I didn't specifically look for TERMINAL 30 NOT PRESENT code after fixing it but I now know that TERMINAL 30 NOT PRESENT is a very common code especially when battery voltage is low or disconnected. I've seen it quite a few more times on my car and so many others I've worked on. What problem do you have? If it's only TERMINAL 30 NOT PRESENT and everything else seems fine, you can ignore it.
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Old Jun 6, 2022 | 05:35 PM
  #13  
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2010 Mercedes GL450
Thanks for getting back with me, my problem started after I put in a new auxiliary battery and it was OK for about 5 days and I let it sit for a couple of days, then I drove it about 10 miles and on my return trip I got a CEL and when I pulled over to check it with my scanner I had a misfire code and another one saying it was centered around my number 5 cylinder, I erase it and got back on the highway it came right back and I thought that it my be a clogged fuel injector, so I floored it and it cut off about a minute later and would not start back up, even after I re-erased the codes. At that point I was stuck with nothing but a click click when I turned it over as if the battery was dead I got a jump start and I used it, same thing when my wife cane I jump it with cables no change, the end result was I got it towed home and try to charge up the battery, and I ended up putting a jumper on starter relay and it still would not charge just a real weak crank no click; everything is pointing to starter with no CODES? But I cannot see how my flooring it took the starter out, with no prior problems with starting? HOPEFULLY THIS MIGHT HELP SOMEONE ELSE OUT; I got the starter ordered;
THANKS AGAIN,
JW
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Old Jun 6, 2022 | 07:32 PM
  #14  
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A starter going out will typically announce itself with a slow crank leading up to immediate failure.

Flooring it could have put it over the edge by giving it more air at idle than it was capable of handling and compressing.
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Old Jun 6, 2022 | 09:27 PM
  #15  
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2010 Mercedes GL450
Thanks Max, that makes a little sense seeing how I never floored it on the highway while the check engine light was on, but I have had the GL for about a year and a half with 235,000 miles on it and I know I probably floored it over 50 times, and it is in good shape, so you would think once that starter went out it would show some type of code other than a misfire. Also it might have been the fault I found while trouble shooting under generator with my scanner: It said ELECTRIC FAULT-- NO & MECHANICAL FAULT-- YES; I thought that was tied into the alternator and maybe that is the starter??
THANKS,
JW,
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Old Jun 6, 2022 | 10:33 PM
  #16  
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2014 GL550; 2010 GL450
Originally Posted by joemoe22
Thanks Max, that makes a little sense seeing how I never floored it on the highway while the check engine light was on, but I have had the GL for about a year and a half with 235,000 miles on it and I know I probably floored it over 50 times, and it is in good shape, so you would think once that starter went out it would show some type of code other than a misfire. Also it might have been the fault I found while trouble shooting under generator with my scanner: It said ELECTRIC FAULT-- NO & MECHANICAL FAULT-- YES; I thought that was tied into the alternator and maybe that is the starter??
THANKS,
JW,
The Generator is the Alternator. If it's shorting out it will put a big load on the battery and also affect the starter. You may have a dead starter that is coincidental with your other symptoms but I think that's less likely. It's possible a mechanical failure in the engine makes it hard to turnover and that took the starter out. Misfire of cylinder #5 that came back right after clearing it means it's real so start by checking that cylinder (spark plug, coil, fuel, compression). Also check the alternator.
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Old Jun 6, 2022 | 11:27 PM
  #17  
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2010 Mercedes GL450
I hear what you are saying TADIGUY but if there is some type of mechanical failure I should get a CEL or an error code, I had to dig up that generator fault, I had no codes showing, I replaced both batteries trying to avoid having to deal with the starter replacement. My GL will show codes 24/7 right now I have a marker light out, and a exit light out on the door, the marker error will come on with the lights, but I have to dig up the exit light by searching that door control module which is what I had to do for the generator and I replaced the alternator when I bought it because it was showing an error code, I will let you know what I have after the starter comes in;
THANKS,
JW,
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Old Jun 8, 2022 | 03:34 PM
  #18  
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Here is the update on my crank but no start problem? My engine is locked up?? After replacing the starter I ended up with the same symptoms and decided to check the crankshaft,,, LOCK LOCK LOCK, I have no understanding as to how and why, but now I need an engine?
THANKS,
JW;
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Old Jun 28, 2022 | 08:18 PM
  #19  
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This is a follow up to me having a used engine installed, one week after getting the engine installed by an all around INDY shop, I noticed a clunking sound anytime I did a fast acceleration from a stop position, and when I pushed the pedal faster it turned into a rattle took it back to the shop they put it on a lift and the noise was coming from front differential? The engine was installed from underneath the vehicle so they dropped the tranny with the engine and in the process they removed the drive shafts, I also had changed the fluid in the differentials and the transmission two weeks before the engine locked up. The shop cannot explain how my problem was created and trying to write it off as a coincidence? The vehicle runs fine at all speeds, with no codes, and if I do a normal take off no noise. I NEED HELP ON THIS!!
THANKS,
JW;
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Old Feb 12, 2023 | 11:20 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by tadiguy
BTW: Did your problem show up after the truck had sat unused for a while (or battery dead)? I don't know how long mine sat before being sold to me but it must be at least a couple of months according to vehicle history report. I've seen elsewhere where people had similar no-start problem after their auxiliary or main battery died or car had sat unused for a while.
I have the same issue. I have a 2007 GL450, drive everyday withut problem, but after sat unused for about 1 month, cranks but the engine doesn't start. Charged up battery or jump start still the same. Scan but cannot find any error codes at all.

During cranking, the RPM on the cluster display stay at zero, the engine scan tools shows speed 0 also.
Also, scan tool show there is no fuel pump control module FSCU, as I don't know if there was one in this car.

any hints?

Last edited by patncche; Feb 12, 2023 at 11:24 AM.
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Old Feb 12, 2023 | 01:50 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by patncche
I have the same issue. I have a 2007 GL450, drive everyday withut problem, but after sat unused for about 1 month, cranks but the engine doesn't start. Charged up battery or jump start still the same. Scan but cannot find any error codes at all.

During cranking, the RPM on the cluster display stay at zero, the engine scan tools shows speed 0 also.
Also, scan tool show there is no fuel pump control module FSCU, as I don't know if there was one in this car.

any hints?
If it cranks then it's not the same problem as mine. I had no crank or light on the dash at all. Re-read my OP. It doesn't sound the same as joemoe22's problem either. In joemoe22's case it was an impending mechanical failure as I had suspected; Not every mechanical issue triggers a CEL. It's probably best to start a new thread for more independent analysis and commentary.
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Old Feb 12, 2023 | 10:00 PM
  #22  
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X165 GL450 2007
Originally Posted by tadiguy
If it cranks then it's not the same problem as mine. I had no crank or light on the dash at all. Re-read my OP. It doesn't sound the same as joemoe22's problem either. In joemoe22's case it was an impending mechanical failure as I had suspected; Not every mechanical issue triggers a CEL. It's probably best to start a new thread for more independent analysis and commentary.
thanks for your advise. I will start a new thread.
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Old Feb 19, 2023 | 05:51 AM
  #23  
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Works fine with this solder…

Originally Posted by tadiguy
I just bought a 2010 GL450, 115K mi with quite a few issues I need to address. The one I'm tackling first is intermittent start/no-start condition. I'll explain further:
  • Sometimes it starts on first try. Other times it won't start after a dozen tries or until I give up. Won't start = no dash light except LED display and no crank.
  • When I open the door I get activity on the small display on the dash board (Mileage, temperature, gear switch position, etc.).
  • When I insert the smart key and turn to ON I most often don't get any lights on the dash and the engine won't crank.
  • Occasionally, I'll get the lights on the dash - the engine may crank and start normally or may not crank.
  • Occasionally, I don't don't get any light on the dash at all, except display, but when I move key to ignition the dash lights momentarily come on and then engine cranks and starts OK.
  • When key is in ON position with no dash light, the radio works, but nothing else (no horn or headlight). Hazard light and inside lights are always OK.
  • When the dash light finally comes on and I leave the key in that position (without cranking) it will go out after a few seconds to a minute

What I've done so far:
  1. I've read a lot on this forum and elsewhere about similar no start problems. Some suggested EIS, dead battery, starter, etc as the root cause.
  2. The 7-yr old battery that came with it couldn't hold charge of more than 12.5V so I replaced it with new battery. When engine is running the system voltage according to my diagnostic tool is 13.8 - 14.0 V.
  3. I have not checked starter yet but I don't see hesitation when it decides to crank and also don't think a bad starter will prevent dash lights and accessories from functioning (correct me if I'm wrong)
  4. I noticed that the steering column cover is lose and can slide up/down freely.
  5. I don't have access to Xentry/DAS, but I have a diagnostic tool that can scan all modules. There are faults on certain modules (AAC, Command/Audio, Rear door module, Rear SAM, Suspension, ESP, Instrument Cluster, ETC, and Motor electronics, EIS/EZS).
  6. I checked battery in key fobs and both are above 3V. The no-start problem happens with both keys.
Of the fault codes, the interesting ones I think are
  • ETC code C426-Start enable 'Drive Authorization System (DIAGNOSTIC TOOL/FBS)' has not been issued. This seems to have been stored 50,000 miles ago. Truck is at 115,000 miles now.
  • Instrument Cluster code 9115 - Control module AAC is not sending any data - I think this is related to my AC blowing hot problem and not the no start problem.
  • Motor electronics code 0521 (P2004) - Tumble flap Inlet manifold short circuit to ground. Flap stuck in Actuated position - Again, I understand this is due to some broken plastic piece in the intake manifold that I plan to address soon, but I don't see how this could be related to the no start issue.
  • EIS/EZS code 900516 - Terminal 30 Not present. I'm not sure what Terminal 30 is, but when I was browsing live data for other modules Terminal 30 appeared to be present with active data.
This is my first MB and have barely owned it for a day so I still have a lot to learn. I intend to DIY and only go to the dealer if absolutely necessary. Any pointers about what else to check to troubleshoot this no-start problem?

I leaning towards some intermittent connection in the key cylinder/module and hoping it's not EIS for obvious dealer-fix cost reasons. Let me know what you think it is or it is not.




just open the ELECTRONIC IGNITION SWITCH

SOLDER WHITE socket to the board

and issue is fixed
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Old Feb 19, 2023 | 07:56 PM
  #24  
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2014 GL550; 2010 GL450
Originally Posted by Mansoorat007



just open the ELECTRONIC IGNITION SWITCH

SOLDER WHITE socket to the board

and issue is fixed
I’ve been traveling a lot lately and just saw your post; the symptoms you described is exactly what I had due to failed connector solder joints. You can thank the lead-free solder that the PCB industry has moved to. It’s good for the environment but frequent poor quality and workmanship issues.

It’s great that you found the problem and saved yourself more hassle and at least $1k.
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Old Feb 19, 2023 | 08:18 PM
  #25  
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2014 GL550; 2010 GL450
I thought @Mansoorat007 was looking for a solution to a similar problem I encountered in 2019 where I updated my post with the fix back then. I misconstrued his quote of my OP as a new problem he’s looking for help with but I now realize he’s only adding some helpful commentary/pix so disregard my earlier response today
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