No Start/Intermittent Start Problem
- Sometimes it starts on first try. Other times it won't start after a dozen tries or until I give up. Won't start = no dash light except LED display and no crank.
- When I open the door I get activity on the small display on the dash board (Mileage, temperature, gear switch position, etc.).
- When I insert the smart key and turn to ON I most often don't get any lights on the dash and the engine won't crank.
- Occasionally, I'll get the lights on the dash - the engine may crank and start normally or may not crank.
- Occasionally, I don't don't get any light on the dash at all, except display, but when I move key to ignition the dash lights momentarily come on and then engine cranks and starts OK.
- When key is in ON position with no dash light, the radio works, but nothing else (no horn or headlight). Hazard light and inside lights are always OK.
- When the dash light finally comes on and I leave the key in that position (without cranking) it will go out after a few seconds to a minute
What I've done so far:
- I've read a lot on this forum and elsewhere about similar no start problems. Some suggested EIS, dead battery, starter, etc as the root cause.
- The 7-yr old battery that came with it couldn't hold charge of more than 12.5V so I replaced it with new battery. When engine is running the system voltage according to my diagnostic tool is 13.8 - 14.0 V.
- I have not checked starter yet but I don't see hesitation when it decides to crank and also don't think a bad starter will prevent dash lights and accessories from functioning (correct me if I'm wrong)
- I noticed that the steering column cover is lose and can slide up/down freely.
- I don't have access to Xentry/DAS, but I have a diagnostic tool that can scan all modules. There are faults on certain modules (AAC, Command/Audio, Rear door module, Rear SAM, Suspension, ESP, Instrument Cluster, ETC, and Motor electronics, EIS/EZS).
- I checked battery in key fobs and both are above 3V. The no-start problem happens with both keys.
- ETC code C426-Start enable 'Drive Authorization System (DIAGNOSTIC TOOL/FBS)' has not been issued. This seems to have been stored 50,000 miles ago. Truck is at 115,000 miles now.
- Instrument Cluster code 9115 - Control module AAC is not sending any data - I think this is related to my AC blowing hot problem and not the no start problem.
- Motor electronics code 0521 (P2004) - Tumble flap Inlet manifold short circuit to ground. Flap stuck in Actuated position - Again, I understand this is due to some broken plastic piece in the intake manifold that I plan to address soon, but I don't see how this could be related to the no start issue.
- EIS/EZS code 900516 - Terminal 30 Not present. I'm not sure what Terminal 30 is, but when I was browsing live data for other modules Terminal 30 appeared to be present with active data.
I leaning towards some intermittent connection in the key cylinder/module and hoping it's not EIS for obvious dealer-fix cost reasons. Let me know what you think it is or it is not.
I have a 2011 GL550. I have the same exact issues when I use the Key. If the P2S button is used, starts normally. I also get the EIS/EZS code 900516 - Terminal 30 Not present but If i put the key in and just hold it on the crank position It does start after a few seconds.
I have a 2011 GL550. I have the same exact issues when I use the Key. If the P2S button is used, starts normally. I also get the EIS/EZS code 900516 - Terminal 30 Not present but If i put the key in and just hold it on the crank position It does start after a few seconds.
BTW: Did your problem show up after the truck had sat unused for a while (or battery dead)? I don't know how long mine sat before being sold to me but it must be at least a couple of months according to vehicle history report. I've seen elsewhere where people had similar no-start problem after their auxiliary or main battery died or car had sat unused for a while.
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THANKS AGAIN,
JW
Flooring it could have put it over the edge by giving it more air at idle than it was capable of handling and compressing.
THANKS,
JW,
THANKS,
JW,
THANKS,
JW,
THANKS,
JW;
THANKS,
JW;
During cranking, the RPM on the cluster display stay at zero, the engine scan tools shows speed 0 also.
Also, scan tool show there is no fuel pump control module FSCU, as I don't know if there was one in this car.
any hints?
Last edited by patncche; Feb 12, 2023 at 11:24 AM.
During cranking, the RPM on the cluster display stay at zero, the engine scan tools shows speed 0 also.
Also, scan tool show there is no fuel pump control module FSCU, as I don't know if there was one in this car.
any hints?
- Sometimes it starts on first try. Other times it won't start after a dozen tries or until I give up. Won't start = no dash light except LED display and no crank.
- When I open the door I get activity on the small display on the dash board (Mileage, temperature, gear switch position, etc.).
- When I insert the smart key and turn to ON I most often don't get any lights on the dash and the engine won't crank.
- Occasionally, I'll get the lights on the dash - the engine may crank and start normally or may not crank.
- Occasionally, I don't don't get any light on the dash at all, except display, but when I move key to ignition the dash lights momentarily come on and then engine cranks and starts OK.
- When key is in ON position with no dash light, the radio works, but nothing else (no horn or headlight). Hazard light and inside lights are always OK.
- When the dash light finally comes on and I leave the key in that position (without cranking) it will go out after a few seconds to a minute
What I've done so far:
- I've read a lot on this forum and elsewhere about similar no start problems. Some suggested EIS, dead battery, starter, etc as the root cause.
- The 7-yr old battery that came with it couldn't hold charge of more than 12.5V so I replaced it with new battery. When engine is running the system voltage according to my diagnostic tool is 13.8 - 14.0 V.
- I have not checked starter yet but I don't see hesitation when it decides to crank and also don't think a bad starter will prevent dash lights and accessories from functioning (correct me if I'm wrong)
- I noticed that the steering column cover is lose and can slide up/down freely.
- I don't have access to Xentry/DAS, but I have a diagnostic tool that can scan all modules. There are faults on certain modules (AAC, Command/Audio, Rear door module, Rear SAM, Suspension, ESP, Instrument Cluster, ETC, and Motor electronics, EIS/EZS).
- I checked battery in key fobs and both are above 3V. The no-start problem happens with both keys.
- ETC code C426-Start enable 'Drive Authorization System (DIAGNOSTIC TOOL/FBS)' has not been issued. This seems to have been stored 50,000 miles ago. Truck is at 115,000 miles now.
- Instrument Cluster code 9115 - Control module AAC is not sending any data - I think this is related to my AC blowing hot problem and not the no start problem.
- Motor electronics code 0521 (P2004) - Tumble flap Inlet manifold short circuit to ground. Flap stuck in Actuated position - Again, I understand this is due to some broken plastic piece in the intake manifold that I plan to address soon, but I don't see how this could be related to the no start issue.
- EIS/EZS code 900516 - Terminal 30 Not present. I'm not sure what Terminal 30 is, but when I was browsing live data for other modules Terminal 30 appeared to be present with active data.
I leaning towards some intermittent connection in the key cylinder/module and hoping it's not EIS for obvious dealer-fix cost reasons. Let me know what you think it is or it is not.
just open the ELECTRONIC IGNITION SWITCH
SOLDER WHITE socket to the board
and issue is fixed
It’s great that you found the problem and saved yourself more hassle and at least $1k.







