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I have done it 2 ways: proper way and low-tech way. The proper way is to use a shop press. I have also done it by drilling out plastic/rubber, pulling the bush bracket with jaws, then cutting off the inner sleeve with a rotary tool. In either case, remember to mark the exact position (several degree rotation) relative to the casting line for the replacement bushing. Recommend a 20-ton shop press, which can be picked up for around $150 at Harbor Freight on periodic sale. Rent other tools for free at a local autoparts store. Hope this helps.
Have gone through many YouTube and many google searches but can't find any proper guidance.
Has anyone replaced the bushings for the front control arm rather than replacing the whole control arm? If yes any tips or tricks.
I am just confused with the removal of this, refer to picture. Is it just like any other bush.
I did it once, the wrong way. Proper way is to remove the lower a-arm and press the bushing on - it requires a lot of constant, linear force to go on there.
The wrong way would be to feverishly dingleball hone the bushing until a large enough hammer can beat the whole assembly onto the a-arm that you didn't remove from the car while the hobby shop personnel are looking at their watches because they close in 15 minutes.
For the time and money, it would seem reasonable to just take it to a machine shop and have them remove the worn bushing and install the new one. Take some time to give them some clear direction and it should be a low-time, straight forward thing for a place with the correct tools.
I think I am on the horns of the same dilemma. I hear a rattling sound in the front suspension when I go over uneven pavement, and looking around/prying with a bar, the only conclusion I come to is that the rubber in the rear bushings on the lower control arms look to be cracking, and might be allowing a metal-on-metal contact. So I wonder, should I just replace the rear bushing, or since it sounds like the best practice is to remove the entire lower control arm anyway, maybe just replacing the entire assembly is the better course. I figure if one of the 3 bushings is shot, then the others are probably not far behind. Any thoughts from the community?
Rubber components don't last forever. It's a "while your in there, might as well do it" thing. If it were mine, and I had the tools or could get them, I would do it. Getting the tools includes having a local shop nearby that is capable of replacing the bushings.
I took apart the entire drivers side suspension components looking for the reason for the creaking and clunking. I found the lower control arm carrier bushing was loose and spinning on the arm. I don’t think it’s supposed to do that. I grabbed a new one from the dealer$$ and installed it in about an hour. So far no more annoying sounds and drives good as new. Hope this solved it.
X166 2013 GL550
I took apart the entire drivers side suspension components looking for the reason for the creaking and clunking. I found the lower control arm carrier bushing was loose and spinning on the arm. I don’t think it’s supposed to do that. I grabbed a new one from the dealer$$ and installed it in about an hour. So far no more annoying sounds and drives good as new. Hope this solved it.
MB has funny problems with the suspension. For example, the swaybar bushings are made to clamp to the bar and fasten to the frame, forcing the rubber bushing to absorb torsion when the swaybar flexes. After bushing installation is completed, the bolts clamping it to the bar should be removed, but this is not in WIS.
The effort involved in replacing the lower control arm bushings - why not just replace the entire lower control arm? They aren't that expensive.
MB has funny problems with the suspension. For example, the swaybar bushings are made to clamp to the bar and fasten to the frame, forcing the rubber bushing to absorb torsion when the swaybar flexes. After bushing installation is completed, the bolts clamping it to the bar should be removed, but this is not in WIS.
The effort involved in replacing the lower control arm bushings - why not just replace the entire lower control arm? They aren't that expensive.
I didn't think a new carrier bushing could be pressed on since mine was probably compromised. I bought a entire new control arm and it fixed my problem.
MB has funny problems with the suspension. For example, the swaybar bushings are made to clamp to the bar and fasten to the frame, forcing the rubber bushing to absorb torsion when the swaybar flexes. After bushing installation is completed, the bolts clamping it to the bar should be removed, but this is not in WIS.
The effort involved in replacing the lower control arm bushings - why not just replace the entire lower control arm? They aren't that expensive.
Good advice. I had mine pressed out and between the cost of the bushings, the hassle of dropping off/picking up the control arms off at a place with a press and the cost of the labor, I'd just replace the control arms if I were doing it again.
Good advice. I had mine pressed out and between the cost of the bushings, the hassle of dropping off/picking up the control arms off at a place with a press and the cost of the labor, I'd just replace the control arms if I were doing it again.
Rock Auto has URO parts lower control arm for $125.
Take the old control arm to a recycling yard and get a nickle of that back.
I didn't think a new carrier bushing could be pressed on since mine was probably compromised. I bought a entire new control arm and it fixed my problem.
That's the other point - how do you determine the control arm is still good enough to take a new bushing, plus how would you know the guys that pressed it in did a proper job.
Was your point of the video that the bushing spinning freely indicated something had gone badly wrong? "Compromised"?
Like how when you really chowder a wheel bearing, the race starts spinning in the hole, ruining that suspension component?
Lemforder parts are avilable at FCP Euro. I bought the set at had them installed. Lemforder are OE quality and you should be happy with them.
My admittedly limited experience with no-name chinese suspension stuff has not been good. I'd spend the extra for Lemforder. No issues with Lemforder upper control arms and Lemforder bushings on my lowers so far.
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