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I just replaced oil cooler seals and cleaned intake, put everything back together and started her up, it took 4 long cranks than she fired up and motor was idling for about 10 mins. I started topping up coolant, then I noticed some diesel leaking I realized fuel rail connection wasn’t tight enough I tightened both of them and was putting back the turbo intake horns when all of a sudden the engine died. No stalling, no choking, no weird knock or metallic noises... only problem is I wasn’t in the driver seat to see if any warnings on the dash came up, im gonna read codes shortly and will post...... now when I try to start all lights illuminate but she doesn’t crank. I checked oil level is at full, I opened oil filter it seems to be dry at to bottom (this is after 4 hours when engine ran last), is this normal ? Slow is a picture, I triple checked oil level and it’s full ... opened up the oil filler cap and put my finger in and it wasn’t ‘dry’... I can’t seem to understand what happened... also checked started fuse (105, 122) and all is good ... there’s some diesel puddle over glow plug caps I cleaned with air compressor but still no luck with crank..... what has happened anyone ? She has 65k on the odo.
pls someone tell me my engine didn’t seize cause I’m about to have a heart attack. Isn’t there supposed to be oil at the bottom?
Last edited by 007_e350; Dec 13, 2019 at 09:35 PM.
Your symptoms dont sound to me like the engine seized. You say that you took everything apart to clean the intakes correct? Being that you have to remove a million things to do this, I would think an electrical connection is loose. Go over all of them with a fine tooth comb. The filter housing looks normal to me.
Do me a favor. Check ALL of the fuses in the passenger side engine compartment. If you accidentally touch the copper part of the sensor at the end of the CCV hose (the part that fits in horns that go to the turbo) to the turbo or metal while fitting the horn back on the turbo, it will blow a 20A fuse and make the engine die suddenly with no restart. Been there, done that.
Do me a favor. Check ALL of the fuses in the passenger side engine compartment. If you accidentally touch the copper part of the sensor at the end of the CCV hose (the part that fits in the turbo) to the turbo or metal while fitting the horn back on the turbo, it will blow a 20A fuse and make the engine die suddenly with no restart. Been there, done that.
this is exactly what happened as I flipped the horns to insert it died instantly
I have checked all fuses that are in the hood and they seem to be ok
how did you get it to start ?
i feel some sign of life again!! Lol you’re a asset buddy!
this is exactly what happened as I flipped the horns to insert it died instantly
I have checked all fuses that are in the hood and they seem to be ok
how did you get it to start ?
i feel some sign of life again!! Lol you’re a asset buddy!
I replaced the fuse and everything came back to life.
My bad, try the 25 & 30A fuses. Trying to remember offhand, but i believe mine was one of the 25 or 30's under the green relay towards the middle.
found the sucker, it was the 15A under the 40A big one and she started up, though idle is very rough I might have missed a connector need to double check everything tomorrow, kudos man you’re my new BFF
found the sucker, it was the 15A under the 40A big one and she started up, though idle is very rough I might have missed a connector need to double check everything tomorrow, kudos man you’re my new BFF
Awesome! Glad to hear its up and running again.
Never thought my misery of going through the same thing would have been of use to someone else.
Hey man I’m just so done with this oil cooler the new one is also leaking, I’m thinking about retrofitting the whole thing, let me know what you think:
tap and dice the engine block oil and water holes, use connectors and run oil and water lines to an external cooler mounted behind radiator, run return lines back in the same way... this Teflon seal thing is just not cutting it...
also the Oring sealing concept is crap, rubber fails after exposure to heat/ cold, i was thinking about running a radiator hose in the driver intake manifold secure with metal clamp in the front and tap/ dice rear with an aluminum connector and clamp it ... EGR has been disabled anyway, DPF and Scr are still operational.
let me know what you think?
Hey man I’m just so done with this oil cooler the new one is also leaking, I’m thinking about retrofitting the whole thing, let me know what you think:
tap and dice the engine block oil and water holes, use connectors and run oil and water lines to an external cooler mounted behind radiator, run return lines back in the same way... this Teflon seal thing is just not cutting it...
also the Oring sealing concept is crap, rubber fails after exposure to heat/ cold, i was thinking about running a radiator hose in the driver intake manifold secure with metal clamp in the front and tap/ dice rear with an aluminum connector and clamp it ... EGR has been disabled anyway, DPF and Scr are still operational.
let me know what you think?
I would not advise doing that. My reasoning is that many many many people replace the seals and they never leak again. If the cooler is leaking with new seals then something must be off or loose. No sense in re-engineering the cooler and you could do irreversible damage to the block.
Guess what I found after taking the turbo out.... (second time) ... it was completely dry when I took it out the first time
When you cleaned the intakes, did you remove ALL of the carbon that was caked up? My thought it that the oil in the turbo may be residual oil left over from the cleaning and working its way through the engine and out of the exhaust. What do the insides of the exhaust manifold collectors look like on the engine side? Is there oil residue present in them?
When you cleaned the intakes, did you remove ALL of the carbon that was caked up? My thought it that the oil in the turbo may be residual oil left over from the cleaning and working its way through the engine and out of the exhaust. What do the insides of the exhaust manifold collectors look like on the engine side? Is there oil residue present in them?
yeah I actually swapped out inlets with deleted swirls and carbon cleaned up, lmk if anyone is interested it was $135 if you ship your intakes
i kinda know I manhandled the turbo, there was two bolts on the bracket that were remaining and I was still trying to take it out, I think I damaged the internal seal or something when I tried to pry it... Anyway looking for a rebuilder
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