When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I bought this "nice" GL350 BlueTec 2011 from LV Cars in Las Vegas
Looked nice and after a drive "around the block", we bought it
I drove it back and forth to work, approx 20-30 min drive for a couples of weeks
Rode nicely.. (later I am going to find out that 20-30 min is just shorter time than the air pump can manage to constantly pump air, before get over heated)
So we decided to drive down to TUCSON AZ to visit the family. A ride of 4-5 hours..
After about an hour or so, the car slightly sank down til it basically bottomed! And the "Compressor Cooling Down" sign came up!!
Tried to get hold of the seller on to what to do.. No response, maybe because the weekend.. :/
We continue to Tucson, got an $3000+ dollar estimated guess :0
Once later on back in Vegas, back to the dealer/seller, no You got it "As-It".. !! This is NOT an $3000 or $7000 dollar car!!?? And of course he showed me.. They sneaked in an As It in the papers.. I never saw that, stupid me.. They finally agreed to check it up to see if they could fix it..
After a week or so: No it is too expensive for us to handle! So I did another stupid thing. Agreed to fix it myself if they bought the airbags that leaked in the back
Done so, the car raised well... Well? I don't think it s totally up, but way better, BUT the front doesn't come up!! And now looking around, I can't see anywhere that someone does or checked anything!? Dealer/seller told me that they checked "all over".. hmm. I am in Las Vegas, so I should expect crooks Can I say that I am angry?
And at the time I finally got hold of that seller, and mentioned the issue? He immediately said: Oh the rear airbag leaks? BEFORE I even said that or where?!
He know'd !!!
So here I am with new Arnott Airbags units in the back (nice units by the way and easy to replace)..
And I bubble test the top of the front struts, and no bubbles there..
So where do I got from here? Any suggestions please?? Oh.. do I have t mention: If You live in Las Vegas.. NEVER BUY A CAR FROM LV CARS!
With air suspension, this really isn't all that uncommon. I know, that doesn't help YOUR situation, but take solace in knowing it is typically a relatively quick and simple fix. In fact, if you do some searching on this forum, you'll find LOT'S of information on this exact topic. But, do the soapy water test EVERYWHERE on the bags, not just at the top. Also, raise the vehicle and do it again. Then check the valve block. Check the lines/fittings. But again, do some searching - there is a ton of info on this.
If you are upset over Airmatic, just wait until you start having all the other issues associated with the diesel engine. Sorry to hear you had issues from the start.
Sorry to hear of your problem but the air suspension is an issue on these after a time.
In November I had to have my Compressor changed on my 2008 GL420, it has 100000 miles on the clock.
As soon as the compressor was fitted, they tested the system and found the next weakest point was the rear bags , one started leaking and the other was looking pretty bad.
These were changed out and immediately they were done the next weakest point was the fronts, so in the space of a week I had had all of these parts replaced, hopefully that is me sorted for some years ahead.
Hurt my pocket to say the least !
If you are upset over Airmatic, just wait until you start having all the other issues associated with the diesel engine. Sorry to hear you had issues from the start.
Aw, c'mom, now. Low blow! We've discussed this before, but there really are plenty of people out there with positive experiences with the diesels. The percentage of "issues" gets skewed because of the internet and the way forums work (typically only post when there's an issue). They're good motors - some have had issues, but any motor can have issues.
I don't agree and those with positive experiences decline quickly as the vehicle ages. It's a very problematic and unreliable engine for all but a very few who travel long distances with infrequent starts and stops. One by one, those that have come to the defense of the OM642, on this forum, have seen the issues first hand and do not come to their defense anymore. Some with multiple timing chain and oil cooler leaks. Those with the Bluetec diesels are cursed. The 320's are not as bad but are still known to have issues with timing chains and oil cooler leaks.
The diesel for a long time had a higher resale value than the gas engine but not anymore. That's not by chance and is directly tied to the unreliability of the OM642. If you like the diesel, you should probably hold on to it because I don't see MB importing a US diesel for a for a very long time if ever and those with 350's may end up getting a settlement.
Yeah, the Diesel engine is the reason for that I even bought the car. Back "home" in Sweden we normally never had issues with the diesels, as long "you did the services"..
Ok so, did anyone has any ideas about my Airmatic issue and how to locate/fix my issues?
I know You guys doesn't like the diesel..
But my problem is the Airmatic .
Ok so, did anyone has any ideas about my Airmatic issue and how to locate/fix my issues?
I know You guys doesn't like the diesel..
But my problem is the Airmatic .
Some of us love the diesels!
How'd you make out with the tests and googling/searching? We provided some info, but didn't hear back from you about that.
I don't agree and those with positive experiences decline quickly as the vehicle ages. It's a very problematic and unreliable engine for all but a very few who travel long distances with infrequent starts and stops. One by one, those that have come to the defense of the OM642, on this forum, have seen the issues first hand and do not come to their defense anymore. Some with multiple timing chain and oil cooler leaks. Those with the Bluetec diesels are cursed. The 320's are not as bad but are still known to have issues with timing chains and oil cooler leaks.
The diesel for a long time had a higher resale value than the gas engine but not anymore. That's not by chance and is directly tied to the unreliability of the OM642. If you like the diesel, you should probably hold on to it because I don't see MB importing a US diesel for a for a very long time if ever and those with 350's may end up getting a settlement.
I've googled and searched since our last conversation about this a few weeks ago and I still see plenty of positives about the engine. Yes, the oil cooler seals are probably the biggest culprit - but once "fixed" it should last a long, long time. The engines, themselves, are very good - it's some of the ancillary systems that require attention/updating. For example, the intake runners are prone to gunking up from combustion gases. It was close to 100K miles till mine gave up the ghost. But, after replacing them, I took it one step further and added a Provent oil collection system which should prevent this from ever happening again. With a little attention and thought, these can be very good engines that last a long, long time. Plus, I have that wonderful cruising/passing torque on the highway where the tranny pretty much never drops out of 7th gear... and even accounting for the higher diesel cost per gallon (which is RIDICULOUS!), I still make out at the pump - 19/20 around town and upper 20's on the highway... 30mph if I'm careful - which I usually am not
I hear what you're saying, but I'm happy with what I have. While I think it's fair to warn new owner's of things to watch out for, I don't think we should completely bash the engine as a whole. But, hey, that's just my opinion!
I've googled and searched since our last conversation about this a few weeks ago and I still see plenty of positives about the engine. Yes, the oil cooler seals are probably the biggest culprit - but once "fixed" it should last a long, long time. The engines, themselves, are very good - it's some of the ancillary systems that require attention/updating. For example, the intake runners are prone to gunking up from combustion gases. It was close to 100K miles till mine gave up the ghost. But, after replacing them, I took it one step further and added a Provent oil collection system which should prevent this from ever happening again. With a little attention and thought, these can be very good engines that last a long, long time. Plus, I have that wonderful cruising/passing torque on the highway where the tranny pretty much never drops out of 7th gear... and even accounting for the higher diesel cost per gallon (which is RIDICULOUS!), I still make out at the pump - 19/20 around town and upper 20's on the highway... 30mph if I'm careful - which I usually am not
I hear what you're saying, but I'm happy with what I have. While I think it's fair to warn new owner's of things to watch out for, I don't think we should completely bash the engine as a whole. But, hey, that's just my opinion!
Hi there, just wondering how you add a "Provent oil collection system". Interesting in this. Thanks for your comments.
DennisG01 Im for sure is curious about how to fix "The oil cooler seals" and where location is..
And
How to fix/add the "Provent oil collection system which should prevent this from ever happening again"....
Please let me know where to find this too
After Im am done with the Airmatic, I want to jump onto anything that can be improved or fixed Before Break down
Thank You folks
that doesn’t mean it’s still good. There is a way to test the output in DAS - threshold is 16 bar within 40 seconds. If your test set can test this you’ll be ahead - a good pump should hit threshold within 1-2 seconds. I had one that was very noisy but tested good, although the clue was that it took about 5-10 seconds to hit threshold.
Visual inspection then revealed a sheared pressure cap bolt on it - so half the output vented to atmosphere. Computer test said it was still good and met the performance threshold...
a new compressor is about $350 from Arnott and is a 30 minute DIY swap. The car doesn’t even need to go on a jack for this.
So, today I actually., at first undone my sway bar in the engine room, just to see if the airbags in the front was shoot or not..
And unscrewed the nut/airhose at the top,psssstt.. and the car just went down, so my airbags seems to hold air if they gets air enough!?
Just in case . ok, please do not judge m, ok?.. I pulled the car up on jacks, just so the car barely touched the ground (ok please set the parking brake, I did not.. at first )..
..and I actually poured some Green Slime in the airbag, just in case it is an leak, temp fix.. put the nut/airhose back and started the car
Pump aired up the airbags nicely, (I had it in high position/offroad) and pump still went, til a clear "Psst!" ( like an dump vent on a turbo ) and the pump shutter off...?
Now it said again as before, "Compressor Over Heated" wait til cool down, "Compressor Cool Down..
So now I know the the compressor pumps, the airbags works even in front, back is new Arnott's..
So it should be the air valve unit??
I checked in the trunk and I did not see or hear any air leaks around the tank/reservoir By the way, what is that unit, that looks like a pump back there?
Is that the pump for the DEF??
So, today I actually., at first undone my sway bar in the engine room, just to see if the airbags in the front was shoot or not..
And unscrewed the nut/airhose at the top,psssstt.. and the car just went down, so my airbags seems to hold air if they gets air enough!?
Just in case . ok, please do not judge m, ok?.. I pulled the car up on jacks, just so the car barely touched the ground (ok please set the parking brake, I did not.. at first )..
..and I actually poured some Green Slime in the airbag, just in case it is an leak, temp fix.. put the nut/airhose back and started the car
Pump aired up the airbags nicely, (I had it in high position/offroad) and pump still went, til a clear "Psst!" ( like an dump vent on a turbo ) and the pump shutter off...?
Now it said again as before, "Compressor Over Heated" wait til cool down, "Compressor Cool Down..
So now I know the the compressor pumps, the airbags works even in front, back is new Arnott's..
So it should be the air valve unit??
I checked in the trunk and I did not see or hear any air leaks around the tank/reservoir By the way, what is that unit, that looks like a pump back there?
Is that the pump for the DEF??
Like I said, don't judge me
Well, I know some that done that on airbags, that been dry rot and could use them for a long time after..
And I used that, after lots of "flats" on y airbags on my G-wagen's and Range Rovers that I used for 0ffroading, REAL offroading..
Not driving down some gravel trails or alike , I mean, straight out! And I had plenty of punctured airbags, not from rocks like many here seems to think is a problem..
The real problem out driving thru a clear cut forrest area or between rocks and trees.. I always had a branch poking thru the bags, so I started to use the "green Slime"..
And even thu a dry branch poked thru, pulling it out, so far, my air pumps and the "Slime" managed to keep me up in the air
So that is why...
I know it works, and I was thinking, why not try as a last "resort".. I plan to change to Arnott in the front anyway as soon I afford
But my question is still... Is it the air valve that can be my problem?
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
We've discussed this before, but there really are plenty of people out there with positive experiences with the diesels. The percentage of "issues" gets skewed because of the internet and the way forums work (typically only post when there's an issue). They're good motors - some have had issues, but any motor can have issues.
)..
