N_Jay

Looks like it might be time for new front struts.
175K miles, bought it 7 years ago at 90K and think they were done once by the previous owner at the dealer.

The left front sags when sitting 2+ days.
Right front also looks low, but thinking that is just the extra weight from the left being down.
Pumps up and runs fine.

I have replaced both rear shocks over the past few years, so I am guessing the fronts probably need (or could use) replacing.

Is there any other issue I should be looking for other than a leaking air spring?
Is it as "easy" as it looks on the YouTube videos?
Should I only buy OEM struts, or are aftermarket struts OK, or should I get Arnott rebuilt struts? (Do they rebuild the shock part, or just put on new are springs?)
I was thinking of getting a front suspension rebuild kit, not that I am wanting to replace al the ball joins and arms, but in case I found (or caused) a problem, I would have spares on hand.
Anything I need to be looking at?

Max Blast

In terms of labor, it is much easier to replace the entire strut assembly (shock plus air spring).

arnott or Bilstein provide very good products. On the opposite side of the scales, eBay/Alibaba struts are very cheap but who knows what specification they’re built to. MB OEM is heinously expensive and not much of an improvement over Arnott’s products.

Id go with two remanufactured arnott strut assemblies and two new rear airbags if I were you.

N_Jay

If I can get Bilstein at a similar cost to Arnott, (+$10 a strut) do you think it is worth it?
Arnott is now saying they are using new custom valved shocks.

Max Blast

Or new. I prefer arnott due to the no hassle warranty.

WinterPark321

1. Some have commented valve block leaking, but in my experience, replacing the entire air spring (rear) or the entire air shock assembly (front) should fix it.
2. Yes the rear is very easy, just follow some of the videos on youtube/DIYs. The fronts are a bit harder, but manageable.
3. I would buy new Arnott air shocks for the front or Arnott air springs for the back. Its not worth the hassle on cheap Chinese branded shocks or worth the money on genuine MB parts. I got mine through FCPEuro which has a lifetime warranty on all parts, plus Arnott itself, has lifetime warranty on their parts.

Let me know if you have any questions.
Good luck

eric_in_sd

Arnott 100%. I wouldn't dream of using anything else, for their after-sale support if nothing else.

N_Jay

I did one rear with Arnott years ago when I screwed up and dropped the car when disconnecting a trailer.
I think the bag got pinched because a few days later it was leaking.

I have no question about Arnott, and I was not going cheap Chinese.

My question was about (OEM) Bilstein units, because I found a pair at RockAuto that were very close to Arnott price.
In googling around, it seems that most like Arnott even better than OEM.
I do wonder whose shock they use.
They have an upper line with Eibach shocks, but I don't need sport shocks on my work truck.

eric_in_sd

Nothing magic about Bilstein. If it's true they are OEM, they do not have a life advantage over Arnott, and nobody beats Arnott's post sale support. My Bilstein rear shocks are already leaking at about 60k miles, and people do not report any longevity improvement with the OEM air bags versus Arnott.


Shock absorbers are not particularly complicated or difficult. Every car manufactured for the last hundred years has a shock absorber on each corner. I wouldn't buy Chinesium, but once in the range of Quality, you won't find much difference.

Shocks become sophisticated when you seek consistent performance over the duration of a drive, i.e. race. You'll see massive shocks with oil reservoirs in off-road (e.g. Baja) racing trucks; they need this because the shocks heat and the oil foams and thins over the course of the race.

On-road racing shocks are engineered to similarly perform consistently over the duration of a race, while minimizing weight. These criteria don't really apply to passenger vehicles.

N_Jay

Went with the Arnott.
Looking at the images and seeing it is American made, I am comfortable.

The old Arnott model was on rebuilt OEM units.

I did Bilstein in the rear. (One a few years back and one just last year.)
I was impressed at how well matched the old (140K miles or so) was matched to the new shock.
They just don't wear much till they start leaking.

Betting it won't even need another set (except for the one original air-spring in the back that is still going strong.

Actually I am fairly sure I only need one up front, but given the car is at 175K miles, and it does not take much difference in spring and shock rates up front to make a vehicle this heavy drive funny, I am doing both.

eric_in_sd

Quick question: You did the rear shocks (not air bags; shock absorbers) yourself?

If so, would you be able to advise as to the feasibility of drilling a hole through the plastic shell inside the passenger compartment, so I don't have to disassemble the rear to replace the shock?


Passenger car shocks typically don't wear (degrade) until the seals fail and fluid leaks. After that it's game over of course.

Max Blast

Eric,

I did mine (non ads) about a year ago - the cheat is to rip the third row hand rests off to get access to the three nuts that hold the shock. Drilling a hole would just be frustrating because you need clear access to the nuts - if original rear shocks; they’ll be covered deep by the squishy foam mat back there and a mere hole won’t give access. If you rip the handrests
off they’ll never fit again unless you glue them.

i took my back end apart and it added about an hour a side to the job. It wasn’t that bad.

N_Jay

It was not that hard to pull the inside panels off. If you are careful you don't need to break anything.

I have now don't both sides without a problem.

eric_in_sd

Thanks guys. Appreciate the voice of experience.

WinterPark321

@eric_in_sd I wouldn't drill a hole in the panel or rip the third row hand rests off. I've read from other posts that the third row arm rests don't fit back properly after they've been ripped off. The proper way to do it is to remove the rear panel which isn't that hard, and adds more space to work with on removing the top shock mount nuts. I would do it right the first time

eric_in_sd

Yeah, good advice. It was just a thought. Thanks.

Isentropic

Hello, my rear left (driver's) side is sagging. I hear the compressor going off all the time for the past 4 months. The sagging has gotten progressively worse, and now the car rides "hard" on road bumps. I am also assuming I have to replace the rear "air spring"? I replaced the rear shocks 2 years ago. Very naive question, are rear shocks different than rear air springs?

Thanks so much for the clarification, in advance.

Miguk_Saram

Yes, they are different.

Unlike the front assembly where the air strut and the shock are combined in one component, the rear components are separate (the air strut, and a separate shock).

Rear shock.

Rear air spring.

Just one word of advice: make sure your mechanic isn't taking you for a ride.

Isentropic

Thank you very much! I just ordered the rear air springs (2). I really appreciate the input.