iCarsoft MBII
11-18-2020, 10:01 AM
#1
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iCarsoft MBII
Does anybody know or have any direction on how to view live data on the ABS sensors on the iCarsoft MBII?
I have the abs light and the Brake rig test light on the dash
also is there a way to reset the SRS light?
I have the abs light and the Brake rig test light on the dash
also is there a way to reset the SRS light?
11-18-2020, 11:12 AM
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'02 SLK32 AMG
I reset my SRS light with the car running, I have found the not running method turn off for ten sec.......to not work. I also do not disconnect before shut off the car or the light re-appears.
11-18-2020, 11:16 AM
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11-18-2020, 11:24 AM
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You sure you don't just need to do the SRS reset? Sounds kind of like what I was struggling with. ABS and ESP both disabled. It's this half-turn-on-a-level-surface-while-rubbing-your-head-and-patting-your-tummy thing.
11-18-2020, 11:31 AM
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the AbS and brake light came on when I tried to go in and reset the SRS light. Now I’m getting the 5410 road test error code.
11-18-2020, 11:49 AM
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hahah omg I have seen those directions...I attempted it last night but when I pressed the ESP off button it would never go solid...it would blink and then turn off. I didn’t know what to do after that.
the AbS and brake light came on when I tried to go in and reset the SRS light. Now I’m getting the 5410 road test error code.
the AbS and brake light came on when I tried to go in and reset the SRS light. Now I’m getting the 5410 road test error code.
11-18-2020, 11:50 AM
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11-18-2020, 11:52 AM
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Fair enough, lol. Let me dig up my transcribed instructions. It was screen grabs from WIS, I think. Unfortunately, i think they're in a word doc on my desktop, which is still not connected after my move.
11-18-2020, 11:53 AM
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11-18-2020, 05:31 PM
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11-19-2020, 10:29 AM
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Not my area of expertise, but yeah I bet the ABS system is involved in the air bag calculations, which are speed, acceleration, weight, and passenger position dependent.
11-19-2020, 10:38 AM
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I just thought it was a typo
11-19-2020, 12:03 PM
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This took me 2 seconds to search online "iCarsoft SRS reset"... google is your friend.
iCarsoft MB II Airbag Light Reset Tool
iCarsoft MB II Airbag Light Reset Tool
I seen that video and it didn’t work...my post is actually about he ABS and the brake rig test....
but thanks for the info
11-19-2020, 07:20 PM
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11-19-2020, 10:48 PM
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I can confirm, it was a hell of a relief to finally get that stupid road test right. This was after a 3K mile road trip, staring at that stupid warning light.
It really is key to buy TPMS sensors in a group with your tires. That way the batteries all go out about the same time.
11-19-2020, 11:53 PM
#19
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Oh, excellent. I was going to bug you about whether you had performed the test EXACTLY but didn't want to be annoying. Good for you.
I can confirm, it was a hell of a relief to finally get that stupid road test right. This was after a 3K mile road trip, staring at that stupid warning light.
Nah, it just looks for four signals. About the only thing you can do is remove wheels one at a time, spinning the remaining wheels, and seeing if you can get three that don't trigger the fault.
It really is key to buy TPMS sensors in a group with your tires. That way the batteries all go out about the same time.
I can confirm, it was a hell of a relief to finally get that stupid road test right. This was after a 3K mile road trip, staring at that stupid warning light.
Nah, it just looks for four signals. About the only thing you can do is remove wheels one at a time, spinning the remaining wheels, and seeing if you can get three that don't trigger the fault.
It really is key to buy TPMS sensors in a group with your tires. That way the batteries all go out about the same time.
as far as the sensors I started having problems after having a flat and putting on a spare...is it possible they they messed up the sensor when plugging and airing up the tire?
maybe if got out of place while the tire was flat?
11-20-2020, 09:48 AM
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LOL you wouldn't believe how I struggled. By the time I got the right instructions, I was getting good at it and got it right the first time. I cried with joy when the error cleared.
Unlikely the tire guy messed it up. Do you know how old it is?
Were you asking about ABS because of the fault display - and thinking it was associated with your TPMS error? MB uses two levels of tire pressure warning. One is "indirect": the comparison of wheel speeds via the ABS sensors. This triggers the orange squishy tire light. The other is direct, which uses the TPMS sensors. This warning is the red STAWP NAO display. If you have the orange squishy tire light, you probably just have one underinflated tire - the one the tire guy plugged.
If the TPMS is stationary, it goes to sleep. Battery drain is very slow. If it is accelerating, i.e. being spun in a circle, it broadcasts infrequently (60-180s): I'm here, and I sense adequate pressure. If it is accelerating and senses low pressure, it broadcasts much more often. So the TPMS will lose battery life based on time and distance and fault conditions. If the TPMS on that wheel died, I'd guess this just happened to push it over the edge.
Your MBII will give you the TPMS data, but will not show wheel locations. Only 1, 2, 3, 4.
If you're feeling brave, and have a compressor, you could try deflating the tire, push the bead down past the lip at the valve / TPMS, change the TPMS, and then try to reinflate. Put some soapy water on the bead so it slides over the little lip.
I'd probably stick with Siemens TPMS units; you can get cheaper ones, which I risked on my snow tire wheels, but the generic ones are not that much cheaper. I managed to get a set of four Siemens units for ~$35 each, generic for $20 each. If you're really feeling brave, you can get them for like $5 each direct from China.
By the way, the valve stem holds the TPMS sensor in place. They aren't actually connected. Fix A Flat will ruin a sensor if you apply it with the sensor at the top - the goo runs all over the sensor - but will probably be fine if you apply it with the sensor at the bottom. Fix A Flat is fake and gay, anyway. I do my own tire plugging, by the way. It's really not hard; you just have to have a good kit.
Source: https://www.brakeandfrontend.com/dec...reless-signal/
Were you asking about ABS because of the fault display - and thinking it was associated with your TPMS error? MB uses two levels of tire pressure warning. One is "indirect": the comparison of wheel speeds via the ABS sensors. This triggers the orange squishy tire light. The other is direct, which uses the TPMS sensors. This warning is the red STAWP NAO display. If you have the orange squishy tire light, you probably just have one underinflated tire - the one the tire guy plugged.
If the TPMS is stationary, it goes to sleep. Battery drain is very slow. If it is accelerating, i.e. being spun in a circle, it broadcasts infrequently (60-180s): I'm here, and I sense adequate pressure. If it is accelerating and senses low pressure, it broadcasts much more often. So the TPMS will lose battery life based on time and distance and fault conditions. If the TPMS on that wheel died, I'd guess this just happened to push it over the edge.
Your MBII will give you the TPMS data, but will not show wheel locations. Only 1, 2, 3, 4.
If you're feeling brave, and have a compressor, you could try deflating the tire, push the bead down past the lip at the valve / TPMS, change the TPMS, and then try to reinflate. Put some soapy water on the bead so it slides over the little lip.
I'd probably stick with Siemens TPMS units; you can get cheaper ones, which I risked on my snow tire wheels, but the generic ones are not that much cheaper. I managed to get a set of four Siemens units for ~$35 each, generic for $20 each. If you're really feeling brave, you can get them for like $5 each direct from China.
By the way, the valve stem holds the TPMS sensor in place. They aren't actually connected. Fix A Flat will ruin a sensor if you apply it with the sensor at the top - the goo runs all over the sensor - but will probably be fine if you apply it with the sensor at the bottom. Fix A Flat is fake and gay, anyway. I do my own tire plugging, by the way. It's really not hard; you just have to have a good kit.
Source: https://www.brakeandfrontend.com/dec...reless-signal/
11-20-2020, 11:56 AM
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LOL you wouldn't believe how I struggled. By the time I got the right instructions, I was getting good at it and got it right the first time. I cried with joy when the error cleared.
Unlikely the tire guy messed it up. Do you know how old it is?
Were you asking about ABS because of the fault display - and thinking it was associated with your TPMS error? MB uses two levels of tire pressure warning. One is "indirect": the comparison of wheel speeds via the ABS sensors. This triggers the orange squishy tire light. The other is direct, which uses the TPMS sensors. This warning is the red STAWP NAO display. If you have the orange squishy tire light, you probably just have one underinflated tire - the one the tire guy plugged.
If the TPMS is stationary, it goes to sleep. Battery drain is very slow. If it is accelerating, i.e. being spun in a circle, it broadcasts infrequently (60-180s): I'm here, and I sense adequate pressure. If it is accelerating and senses low pressure, it broadcasts much more often. So the TPMS will lose battery life based on time and distance and fault conditions. If the TPMS on that wheel died, I'd guess this just happened to push it over the edge.
Your MBII will give you the TPMS data, but will not show wheel locations. Only 1, 2, 3, 4.
If you're feeling brave, and have a compressor, you could try deflating the tire, push the bead down past the lip at the valve / TPMS, change the TPMS, and then try to reinflate. Put some soapy water on the bead so it slides over the little lip.
I'd probably stick with Siemens TPMS units; you can get cheaper ones, which I risked on my snow tire wheels, but the generic ones are not that much cheaper. I managed to get a set of four Siemens units for ~$35 each, generic for $20 each. If you're really feeling brave, you can get them for like $5 each direct from China.
By the way, the valve stem holds the TPMS sensor in place. They aren't actually connected. Fix A Flat will ruin a sensor if you apply it with the sensor at the top - the goo runs all over the sensor - but will probably be fine if you apply it with the sensor at the bottom. Fix A Flat is fake and gay, anyway. I do my own tire plugging, by the way. It's really not hard; you just have to have a good kit.
Source: https://www.brakeandfrontend.com/dec...reless-signal/
Unlikely the tire guy messed it up. Do you know how old it is?
Were you asking about ABS because of the fault display - and thinking it was associated with your TPMS error? MB uses two levels of tire pressure warning. One is "indirect": the comparison of wheel speeds via the ABS sensors. This triggers the orange squishy tire light. The other is direct, which uses the TPMS sensors. This warning is the red STAWP NAO display. If you have the orange squishy tire light, you probably just have one underinflated tire - the one the tire guy plugged.
If the TPMS is stationary, it goes to sleep. Battery drain is very slow. If it is accelerating, i.e. being spun in a circle, it broadcasts infrequently (60-180s): I'm here, and I sense adequate pressure. If it is accelerating and senses low pressure, it broadcasts much more often. So the TPMS will lose battery life based on time and distance and fault conditions. If the TPMS on that wheel died, I'd guess this just happened to push it over the edge.
Your MBII will give you the TPMS data, but will not show wheel locations. Only 1, 2, 3, 4.
If you're feeling brave, and have a compressor, you could try deflating the tire, push the bead down past the lip at the valve / TPMS, change the TPMS, and then try to reinflate. Put some soapy water on the bead so it slides over the little lip.
I'd probably stick with Siemens TPMS units; you can get cheaper ones, which I risked on my snow tire wheels, but the generic ones are not that much cheaper. I managed to get a set of four Siemens units for ~$35 each, generic for $20 each. If you're really feeling brave, you can get them for like $5 each direct from China.
By the way, the valve stem holds the TPMS sensor in place. They aren't actually connected. Fix A Flat will ruin a sensor if you apply it with the sensor at the top - the goo runs all over the sensor - but will probably be fine if you apply it with the sensor at the bottom. Fix A Flat is fake and gay, anyway. I do my own tire plugging, by the way. It's really not hard; you just have to have a good kit.
Source: https://www.brakeandfrontend.com/dec...reless-signal/
11-25-2020, 05:49 PM
#22
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I'd probably stick with Siemens TPMS units; you can get cheaper ones, which I risked on my snow tire wheels, but the generic ones are not that much cheaper. I managed to get a set of four Siemens units for ~$35 each, generic for $20 each. If you're really feeling brave, you can get them for like $5 each direct from China.
Then one sensor wouldn't activate. I put in for a return. I figured changing it would be a pain, so I bought a BeadBuster. Imma change it myself, thanks.
Then the sensor activated. I guess the accelerometer needed to be shaken loose or something.
Then I tweaked the air pressures so I'd have a good baseline for the central pressure reference points. Came out the next morning to a glaring red TIRE PRESSURE error. Wandered around the truck to see one tire had completely deflated overnight. Tightened the valve stem core, pumped it back up, and went on my way.
What do y'all think the odds are one of the sensors does a dookie on the road in the near future? I think I'll buy a set of Siemens VDO sensors and if and when it fails, swap them out with my BeadBuster.
11-25-2020, 06:06 PM
#23
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I regret buying generic sensors. One, the valve stem core wasn't tightened, and the tire deflated in storage. Fortunately, I keep an air pump in my truck.
Then one sensor wouldn't activate. I put in for a return. I figured changing it would be a pain, so I bought a BeadBuster. Imma change it myself, thanks.
Then the sensor activated. I guess the accelerometer needed to be shaken loose or something.
Then I tweaked the air pressures so I'd have a good baseline for the central pressure reference points. Came out the next morning to a glaring red TIRE PRESSURE error. Wandered around the truck to see one tire had completely deflated overnight. Tightened the valve stem core, pumped it back up, and went on my way.
What do y'all think the odds are one of the sensors does a dookie on the road in the near future? I think I'll buy a set of Siemens VDO sensors and if and when it fails, swap them out with my BeadBuster.
Then one sensor wouldn't activate. I put in for a return. I figured changing it would be a pain, so I bought a BeadBuster. Imma change it myself, thanks.
Then the sensor activated. I guess the accelerometer needed to be shaken loose or something.
Then I tweaked the air pressures so I'd have a good baseline for the central pressure reference points. Came out the next morning to a glaring red TIRE PRESSURE error. Wandered around the truck to see one tire had completely deflated overnight. Tightened the valve stem core, pumped it back up, and went on my way.
What do y'all think the odds are one of the sensors does a dookie on the road in the near future? I think I'll buy a set of Siemens VDO sensors and if and when it fails, swap them out with my BeadBuster.
11-25-2020, 06:43 PM
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amazon.com/gp/product/B084L3CNZ5
You use it to push the bead of the tire down past the inner lip. Then you can access the sensor. You aren't taking the tire all the way off the wheel.
This can also be done with 2x4's, and a bit of jumping up and down, but this tool looks cool.
You use it to push the bead of the tire down past the inner lip. Then you can access the sensor. You aren't taking the tire all the way off the wheel.
This can also be done with 2x4's, and a bit of jumping up and down, but this tool looks cool.
