Coolant circulation pump function


For now, just a quick question that hopefully someone will know... Is the coolant circ pump (the one near the coolant resevoir) SOLELY responsible for sending coolant to the heater core? Meaning, in a "normal" car
the engine circulation pump (belt driven) would send coolant through the engine AND the heater core. But in the Mercedes, does the engine circ pump ONLY take care of the engine while the electric coolant circ pump takes care of the heater core?I imagine I can start tracing coolant hoses tomorrow afternoon and find the heater core and then figure it out?

The "clicking noise" is better described (now that's it's not 9:30 at night, 25* and 25mph winds) as a slow/lazy slap, slap, slap. Roughly, 2 slaps per second. But as soon as I turn the HVAC off, it goes away. It also goes away with very slight increase in RPM (maybe just a 100 or so RPM) from the throttle pedal.
Last edited by DennisG01; Mar 5, 2021 at 08:42 PM.


36*F this morning, on my way to work I watched the engine temp. It climbed up to 90*C within about 7 or 8 minutes (guesstimate) - or at least a timeframe that felt very reasonable. I was "hoping" to see that temp stay low, meaning the culprit would have just been an old t-stat not fully closing (or lodged open from some kind of grit/gunk).
This is clearly not a forever fix however, the dealer stated my pump was bad too. When my heater was on, I would only get cold air.
There was a was weeks in which it was between 0-5°F.
I did a little experimenting. When I turned the heat on the rear on, the front would blow out hot heat.
Maybe yours will work the same?

Edit: Just realized I should easily be able to tell if the aux circ pump is operating by selecting "rest" after turning the engine off - and/or checking for V at the plug - and/or jumping 12V directly to it.
Last edited by DennisG01; Mar 8, 2021 at 08:01 PM.
The circulation pumps are cheap commodity garbage and a component shared across many MB models. They fail at somewhat early age/mileage and are not terribly expensive. However the labor time needed to replace the pump drives the dealer service price for this very high. Most circulation pumps are buried in the bowels of the engine bay. Mine is sandwiched between the left headlight and left front tire.
The network of small diameter cooling lines associated with the circulation pump leads to the potential of needing to replace several clamps or hoses or both.
Summary- these pumps fail, they are not that expensive, they assist with engine cooling and provide the REST function and are a pain to replace.
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I selected "rest" when I got home today. The pump continued to run (I could hear it) and I could "feel" the coolant being pushed through the hose that goes through the firewall to the heater core. With this info, I suspect there is a partial blockage somewhere in the heater core(s) and/or hoses. I was planning on doing a complete flush in the Spring, anyways
Don't forget, the last guy to do a coolant system flush ended up needing a new motor. Tread carefully.
Seriously, though, I bet there are many reasons besides blockage that could cause the heater to perform sub par. I'd look into the architecture. Perhaps the aux pump is weak but not failed completely?
By the way, I found that a bit of 3/8" ID vinyl tubing can be connected to the radiator drain, so the coolant can be easily reclaimed.
Last edited by eric_in_sd; Mar 10, 2021 at 01:53 PM.








