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I have been having Airmatic error messages for some time. It started with the picture of the car with the up arrow on the inside and the code 5508 that the resvoir is taking too long to fill. No physical signs of issue. No front or back end dropping.
then I started getting the 5503 error that there is a leak somewhere but still no signs of leaking.
if I press the rose button on the inside of the car nothing would happen though.
today I took these live data screenshots of the levels (below) but I have no idea what they Mean. Any help deciphering them would be great.
I also hit a pothole today and the rising message came on the dash but nothing was happening. Then I seen the message “compressor cooling down” on the screen.
so far still no dropping or obvious signs of leaking
Those are your level sensor voltages which the car translates into a ride height. They look normal.
What does not look normal is the 0 bar measurement. I don’t know where that sensor code really is - if that’s the output of the pump or the pressure on the central reservoir you may have a bum sensor. If you have an open reservoir the pressure should read 1 bar, not 0.
have you replaced your compressor yet?
Last edited by Max Blast; Mar 23, 2021 at 08:48 AM.
Check out other compressor threads posted recently.
theres been a rash of cheap chinesium compressors making it into Arnott’s supply chain and failures within 20,000 miles. Your mileage may vary but compressor overheating messages and your 1.3 million second run time in a year indicates it is running too long to keep pressure in the system.
two reasons for that are weak compressor or a leak.
Check out other compressor threads posted recently.
theres been a rash of cheap chinesium compressors making it into Arnott’s supply chain and failures within 20,000 miles. Your mileage may vary but compressor overheating messages and your 1.3 million second run time in a year indicates it is running too long to keep pressure in the system.
two reasons for that are weak compressor or a leak.
ok that tells me there was more wrong the first time.
what is the easiest way to find/fix a leak? If all my levels seem right would it be something other then the Struts?
the system only has 5 main components right?
1. Compressor
2. value block
3. 4 struts
4. reservoir
5. Relay
Check out other compressor threads posted recently.
theres been a rash of cheap chinesium compressors making it into Arnott’s supply chain and failures within 20,000 miles. Your mileage may vary but compressor overheating messages and your 1.3 million second run time in a year indicates it is running too long to keep pressure in the system.
two reasons for that are weak compressor or a leak.
is it possible that the compressor run time was not updated when the compressor was changed 2 years ago?
is it possible that the compressor run time was not updated when the compressor was changed 2 years ago?
Very much so. I didn't reset when I put in the Arnott compressor. Now I have a tool that does 2-way and did reset the timer when I put in the Chinesium. Even if someone has a tool to do it, they may not have known or bothered.
FWIW when I get the Arnott AMK I'll pull the Chinesium and keep it as a spare.
Very much so. I didn't reset when I put in the Arnott compressor. Now I have a tool that does 2-way and did reset the timer when I put in the Chinesium. Even if someone has a tool to do it, they may not have known or bothered.
FWIW when I get the Arnott AMK I'll pull the Chinesium and keep it as a spare.
just confirmed that the Indy shop did NOT reset the timer 2 years ago. I don’t wanna start throwing parts at this thing. Especially since the light doesn’t come on all the time.
I had one shop that said they found a leak but if there was a leak wouldn’t the car have lowered by now? It has NEVER lowered. It just won’t raise
just confirmed that the Indy shop did NOT reset the timer 2 years ago. I don’t wanna start throwing parts at this thing. Especially since the light doesn’t come on all the time.
I had one shop that said they found a leak but if there was a leak wouldn’t the car have lowered by now? It has NEVER lowered. It just won’t raise
You were on the right track asking about the components. Draw a diagram. There is a valve block with six valves and a small chamber inside with a pressure sensor on it. Four valves lead to each of the four corners, one valve leads to the reservoir, and one to the pump. There is a valve in the pump that connects the output side of the pump with the intake. There is power supply to the pump that comes from the relay.
That's literally all there is to it. The valve on the pump is used to bleed air off the system, so if you get out of the vehicle you'll hear the pump hiss as it bleeds off air to lower the vehicle.
It's easy to check for leaks; just squirt soapy water around.
Keep in mind the normal state of the system is to have all valves closed. The valves only open to adjust the height or to fill or drain the reservoir. For example, to raise the suspension without running the pump, the valve to the reservoir and to each corner is opened. To lower the suspension, the valve to each corner and the bleed valve on the pump are opened. To fill the reservoir, the valve to the reservoir is opened and the pump is switched on.
Unfortunately, the Icarsoft is only a query tool, so it is not much good for doing diagnosis on Airmatic - the valves are normally all closed, you see, isolating the pressure sensor inside the valve block. Since you seem pretty curious about the vehicle, I would definitely get the more advanced Autel that does two-way operation.
I would also get the AMK pump. I posted a link to someone selling them on Ebay for $366. Your pump is failing and they do not get better.
The fact that the valves are all normally closed makes it a little tricky to check for leaks - you can't check the line from the pump to the valve block without the pump running. But you should be checking the bags for leaks regularly anyway.
You were on the right track asking about the components. Draw a diagram. There is a valve block with six valves and a small chamber inside with a pressure sensor on it. Four valves lead to each of the four corners, one valve leads to the reservoir, and one to the pump. There is a valve in the pump that connects the output side of the pump with the intake. There is power supply to the pump that comes from the relay.
That's literally all there is to it. The valve on the pump is used to bleed air off the system, so if you get out of the vehicle you'll hear the pump hiss as it bleeds off air to lower the vehicle.
It's easy to check for leaks; just squirt soapy water around.
Keep in mind the normal state of the system is to have all valves closed. The valves only open to adjust the height or to fill or drain the reservoir. For example, to raise the suspension without running the pump, the valve to the reservoir and to each corner is opened. To lower the suspension, the valve to each corner and the bleed valve on the pump are opened. To fill the reservoir, the valve to the reservoir is opened and the pump is switched on.
Unfortunately, the Icarsoft is only a query tool, so it is not much good for doing diagnosis on Airmatic - the valves are normally all closed, you see, isolating the pressure sensor inside the valve block. Since you seem pretty curious about the vehicle, I would definitely get the more advanced Autel that does two-way operation.
I would also get the AMK pump. I posted a link to someone selling them on Ebay for $366. Your pump is failing and they do not get better.
The fact that the valves are all normally closed makes it a little tricky to check for leaks - you can't check the line from the pump to the valve block without the pump running. But you should be checking the bags for leaks regularly anyway.
thank you for that insight. I will spray everything down with soapy water and then see if I noticed ice any leaks. With the 2 codes I have I feel like there has got to be a leak somewhere.
which line of autel will allow me to actually test and not just query?
thank you for that insight. I will spray everything down with soapy water and then see if I noticed ice any leaks. With the 2 codes I have I feel like there has got to be a leak somewhere.
which line of autel will allow me to actually test and not just query?
MP808K
Mine came with a bunch of adapters I'm going to sell on Ebay. They might sell an MP808 that doesn't include the adapters; I don't know.
You have leaks all right, but they're between the compressor piston and the chamber wall.
is it possible that the compressor run time was not updated when the compressor was changed 2 years ago?
yes - we can’t entirely eliminate that possibility, but that translates to about 15 days of run time. That sounds like it’s within the region of reasonable if it is a weak compressor or a good one trying to pressurize a leaking system.
Now I have a tool that does 2-way and did reset the timer when I put in the Chinesium.
Can you share what tool you are using now that does 2-way communication? I'm using the same iCarSoft MBII that you are showing in your pictures and it does not appear to have that function.
Sorry to thread-jack -
Although my truck (2008 320 CDI) raises ride height reliably and there is no hissing, I'm tracing an issue where I feel like at highway speed when encountering uneven road, the truck porpoises wildly as if the air shocks don't have sufficient sir volume to control jounce or rebound.
Can you share what tool you are using now that does 2-way communication? I'm using the same iCarSoft MBII that you are showing in your pictures and it does not appear to have that function.
Although my truck (2008 320 CDI) raises ride height reliably and there is no hissing, I'm tracing an issue where I feel like at highway speed when encountering uneven road, the truck porpoises wildly as if the air shocks don't have sufficient sir volume to control jounce or rebound.
Autel's lineup is beyond confusing. Look for the units that have bi-directional control. I think the MP808 is the lowest one that fits that description.
MBII is a fine tool, but without controlling individual valves, you are a bit stuck diagnosing the suspension.
Originally Posted by Max Blast
You might want to check your shocks.
Yeah, problem ain't the springs. You're lacking damping.
the air bags act as springs and do little to dampen the motion of the wheels.
Thank you. Can't believe I was so daft. I've been modifying cars for decades and this apparently didn't occur to me.
New Bilsteins in last weekend. Just 3 simple bolts to remove - takes about 20mins per side.. Oh, you need to access the two top bolts? add another 3 hours and remove 16 bolts, 8 trim panels, and unclip a wiring harness and fuse box. I ultimately pulled out a hole saw to save my cursing. Truck now drives beautifully. I'm embarrassed to say how long I drove with blown rear shocks.
Well, now, I just happened to have bought a Forstner bit set the other day. You think there is any chance you'd be able to help a bro out with the coordinates of the bolts in the arm rests?
I reckon I'd get hole plugs and pop 'em back in. I really don't care what my third row passengers, should I ever have any again, think of the arm rest comforts.
Half tempted to remove the third row seats entirely to get more cargo capacity.
Okay I'm sitting around so I thought I'd make up a flow chart.
Thin is high pressure, fat is low pressure. Not shown is the relay and the wiring. P is the pressure sensor.
Unless the 450 and 550 are different in terms of air layout (i know the dampers are different, one being semi active) the valve block does not dictate the air flow to the air bags. The valve block allows air from the compressor to the reservoir. From the reservoir back to the block which is a direct open passage to the air bags. There are individual valves at each air bag to allow air in or out.
I dont have my mb star with me right now, but it has the schematic. You can also open your hood and see the airline going to the little solenoid at the top of the strut assembly.
Unless the 450 and 550 are different in terms of air layout (i know the dampers are different, one being semi active) the valve block does not dictate the air flow to the air bags. The valve block allows air from the compressor to the reservoir. From the reservoir back to the block which is a direct open passage to the air bags. There are individual valves at each air bag to allow air in or out.
I dont have my mb star with me right now, but it has the schematic. You can also open your hood and see the airline going to the little solenoid at the top of the strut assembly.
Dunno what the difference is you're seeing. ADS?
I've got no solenoids on the struts, and my valve block has six fittings and eight or ten wires in the plug connector.
Last edited by eric_in_sd; May 4, 2021 at 01:48 PM.
so I have changed the compressor and the front 2 struts but I still keep getting the 5508 (pressure line leaks) and 5509 (reservoir leaks) messages.
when I went in with my scanner I was able to adjust the front 2 up and down with no problem...maybe because they are new. But now when I attempt to
adjust the back ones the number just keeps getting higher. Well its a negative number so I guess it keeps getting lower but i hope you understand what I mean.
The tech who installed the compressor said one of the lines coming off the compressor had a crack so he just cut that part off and reattached it but he wasnt able
to tell me which line or where it was coming from.
anybody have any insight as to what might be going on now?
Here is what the levels started with but when I finished attempting to adjust the rears were both in the -100/-110 range.
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