2010 GL550

***This has occurred 3 times now***

Driving at 40mph and all of a sudden both driver and passenger seat belts tighten up and jerk me back in my seat.

My driver and passenger side wisides were down but when the seat belts tighten up, both windows rolled up by themselves leaving about 3 inches of the window still open.

Anyone experience the same?

 

Nope those are electrical gremlins triggering your pre-safe system, go look for burnt wires or water intrusion.

 

I've not had that happen, but it sounds like the Pre-Safe system thinks that your enthusiasm has exceeded your adhesion and is prepping the cabin for a percussive deceleration event. Assuming, of course, that you're not attempting to recreate one of the Gymkhana videos, though, you might start looking at the ESP system to see if it's got a sensor that's going a little crazy?

Edit: I type slow. What he said!

 

Thanks for the replies.

NOTE: I failed to mention I also get the "ESP INOPERABLE" and "ESP UNAVAILABLE" light intermittent too.

From what I understand I need to replace both rear wheel speed sensors.

 

I think Adam Savage said it best: "Well, there's your problem!".

Yeah, that all relies on the ESP system so that's not surprising. If you can get a good scanner on it, you should be able to gain some insight into what the system thinks is wrong. I believe an iCarSoft MBII can get those. DAS/Xentry for sure. I think a wheel sensor error could cause it to think it's in a skid, but it surprises me that it wouldn't disable the Pre Safe system if it knows the sensor data is implausible. You can probably buy a "copy" of Xentry and an OpenPort 2.0 for less or the same as what the dealer would charge you for a diagnosis.

 

Failed wheel speed sensors as well as a suspect yaw rate sensor might fool the car into thinking its crashing, which triggers the behavior you describe here.

Other symptoms of wheel speed sensor(s) failing are jerky, dragging and brakes. Read out which sensor(s) is reporting an implausible value then replace both sensors on the axle with the failing sensor - with OEM parts, not cheap chinesium.

 

Thanks for the replies.

I did have a buddy connect a snap-on reader to it and it indicated the right rear speed sensor which makes sense because sometimes when I take a left turn I get the jerking/loss of power.

I'm going to replace both rear senors with Mercedes only parts.

 

I've been out of town and hopped in the GL today. Still getting the same light intermittently.

I also noticed that steering wheel column stalk (turn signal, cruise control, shifter) is loose. When I activate my left or right turn signal, the column moves too now.

Unsure if related or is there a screw that may need to be tighten?

Thanks in advance for any replies.

 

Did you replace any wheel speed sensors in the mean time?

you might lose the shifter if the column situation continues. I don’t think it’s related to your esp/bas/pre-safe errors.

 

Speed never killed anyone.
Suddenly becoming stationary, that’s what gets you.

 

There's a Torx 30 screw on the underside of the steering kowl that needs to be tightened. It is hidden inside a relatively deep cavity. Consider applying some Lock Tight to ensure it does not come loose again.

 

Replaced both rear speed sensors with genuine Mercedes parts.

Still getting the ESP unavailable and unoperative.

I'm also still getting an AUX battery malfunction.

The yellow triangle flashes only when i take a left turn and I have reduced power momentarily. As soon as I straighten out the steering wheel all goes back to normal.

Sometimes when I drive over a dip in the road or apply the breaks the seatbelts are still tightening up and my windows will roll up.

Anyone experience the same?

 

@Miguk_Saram I tightened the stalk, thanks for the info.

 

Some other sensor is triggering pre-safe. That could be a yaw rate sensor or a deceleration sensor malfunctioning.

 

Can you get it rescanned.

have had presafe come on a while after fixing wheel sensors (say ten minutes of driving) after the car clears the issue

also did you make sure the sensor ring in hub was clean and rust free? I normally gently scrape them with a small round wire brush through the sensor hole while rotating the wheel. Could be the sensor ok

 

@wannawagon

I will try getting to get a rescan this week.

When I replaced the sensors I did note rust and took a my shop vac and vacuumed up all of it.

I've also noticed when my my seat belts tighten up and windows roll up, I can also hear/feel when applying the breaks the ABS (what i believe is the ABS) activate and somewhat of a grind coming from the drivers front left wheel.

I'm also going to swap out the AUX battery. Im going to play it safe and purchase the genuine Mercedes AUX battery.

 

IDefinitely worthwhile pulling sensor and clean the pickup ring on hub. I have only used reliable brand aux batteries and never had issues. But I am a long way from dealer

 

Dude.
1) The aux battery does just one thing, and that is put the transmission in Park if the main battery is gone.
2) That battery is like $15. Absolutely no magic to the MB OEM - there are like three battery manufacturers in all of North America. MB don't make their own.

Just tryna save you a few bucks.

 

Eric,

Appreciate the money saver. My local dealer wants $52 for one. Are you saying I can go to any Autozone/Batteries+/Advanced Auto and pick up the same Auxiliary Battery?

 

Yes.

 

You can even go one better. Generics are available that are the same size and shape, with the only difference being the two terminals are the same size. You have to squeeze down the electrical connector to grasp the terminal, but beyond that you're good to go.

 

My GL has been sitting for sometime and yesterday I started it up and took it straight to my local indy as im still gettig the ESP UNAVAILABLE light intermittently and my seat belts are still tighten up along with the windows rolling up.

Of course once the ESP UNAVAILABLE light comes on the seat belts and windows don't tighten up on my.

He hooked up his $10k Snap-On scanner and I had the following codes:

​​5755 b24/15 (yaw rate latitude and longitudinal acceleration sensor): signial fault (yaw rate sensor)

5173 Steering wheel angle: signal fault

5170 steering wheel angle: zero wheel variation

After about an hour of troubleshooting we took the GL550 for a live scan.

All speed sensors are working properly, the steering wheel turn is reading turn values. However while driving, in order to drive straight my steering wheel is cooked at the 4 o'clock position.

To add, when the ESP UNAVAILABLE light is off and im driving down the road and make a slight left turn the GL sputters and loses acceleration power until i turn the steering wheel back to center.

I've come to the conclusion that the yaw rate sensor possibly needs to be replaced but I wanted to know what others here thought prior to replacing.

All comments are welcome.

Thanks in advance.

I did locate online a Mercedes Workshop Manual that shows how to replace the yaw sensor. Heres the link:

https://workshop-manuals.com/mercede...ive_displayed/

 

Max for the win back in July. Max suggested the yaw rate sensor could be the issue and now you are showing that code.

What did the show suggest to do?

 

@Max Blast definitely for the win.

My question is, is there more than one yaw rate sensor?

The scanner showed b24/15.

I know it's located under the passenger seat.

 

> However while driving, in order to drive straight my steering wheel is cooked at the 4 o'clock position.
Does it need alignment in addition to or instead of a new sensor? 4 o'clock seems pretty far off.