GL Class (X164) 2007-2012: GL320CDI, GL420CDI, GL450, GL550

2008 Mercedes GL450 EBV, ABS, ESP Inoperative message

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Old Sep 7, 2022 | 06:26 PM
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2008 Mercedes GL450
2008 Mercedes GL450 EBV, ABS, ESP Inoperative message

Hi, I have a 2008 GL450, I had to replace the front right wheel bearing due to grinding noises. I pressed the old one out (which came out in prices and bearings went everywhere), pressed the new one in, no problems everything went pretty easy, got everything put back together and test drove, good news is the noise went away but then the "EBV, ABS, ESP Inoperative Diagnosis/Rig Test" message came on. I pulled a code for front right ABS sensor not reading the wheel speed, I replaced the sensor (just for ****s and giggles because the sensor itself tested good) cleared the codes, NOW it won't shift into Drive/Reverse, it goes out of Park but it stays in Neutral and the dash Shows that it's in Drive.
I later found out that the bearing goes in a certain way, because it has the magnetic encoders chip in the bearing, unfortunately it wasn't until after I drove it that I realized what I did wrong, so I got a new bearing and replaced it again, still can't get it to go into Drive/Reverse even tho the dash shows the gear selector in Drive/Reverse, but it stays in neutral.
Im at my wits end with this, so what I'm asking is do I have to calibrate or reset anything (on top of clearing the codes) to get this back to normal?

Please help!!
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Old Sep 7, 2022 | 07:10 PM
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You’re likely put the new bearing in the wrong way again, or you got the wrong bearing, or the codes persisted and defeated all Motive Systems.

If you’re positive you have the right bearing in the right way, clear all codes by yanking all electrical power for about 30 minutes and try again.

Last edited by Max Blast; Sep 7, 2022 at 07:12 PM.
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Old Sep 7, 2022 | 08:27 PM
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1) First step is to do what Max said. It is the easiest and fastest to just disconnect the battery and see if everything resets itself.
2) If above doesn't fix it, put the old speed sensor on and see if that fixes it. This is the second next easy thing to do. Are you able to confirm the signal from speed sensor and see if it matches from other speed sensors. You could have damaged the cable of speed sensor.
3) Are you sure you put the magnetic/black strip side of bearing towards speed sensor? If you did, then the magnetic reluctor might be bad.
I just did my rear right bearing 3 days ago and didn't get any of these problems.
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Old Sep 9, 2022 | 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Max Blast
You’re likely put the new bearing in the wrong way again, or you got the wrong bearing, or the codes persisted and defeated all Motive Systems.

If you’re positive you have the right bearing in the right way, clear all codes by yanking all electrical power for about 30 minutes and try again.
I've triple and quadruple checked everything. I'm positive the bearing was installed correctly the second time around because now I actually have a RPM signal from that wheel and it matches the other side signal.signal.
I've disconnected the main and auxiliary battery overnight thinking it would reset but when I connected them again it seemed like it never lost power the trip odo.was still the same even.
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Old Sep 9, 2022 | 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by TX07GL450
1) First step is to do what Max said. It is the easiest and fastest to just disconnect the battery and see if everything resets itself.
2) If above doesn't fix it, put the old speed sensor on and see if that fixes it. This is the second next easy thing to do. Are you able to confirm the signal from speed sensor and see if it matches from other speed sensors. You could have damaged the cable of speed sensor.
3) Are you sure you put the magnetic/black strip side of bearing towards speed sensor? If you did, then the magnetic reluctor might be bad.
I just did my rear right bearing 3 days ago and didn't get any of these problems.
I have a snap on scan tool and I looked at the live Data and it shows a good signal from both wheels matching the RPM and speed. I even put the old sensor back in just to check it after the second bearing and it also was good.
I've done my rear bearings not too long ago and didn't have an issue at all, just plug and play.
And I don't understand how I disconnected the main battery and auxiliary battery overnight yet it seemed like it never lost power.

I gonna disconnect them again for an hour and try to get all the excess power out
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Old Sep 9, 2022 | 01:08 PM
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If you have a snap on tool it should be able to erase any stored or current codes that may be causing this behavior. Pulling both batteries is the recommendation for someone without a “ proper “ scan tool.
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Old Sep 9, 2022 | 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Max Blast
If you have a snap on tool it should be able to erase any stored or current codes that may be causing this behavior. Pulling both batteries is the recommendation for someone without a “ proper “ scan tool.
I erased the codes and tried it again, still having same issue. Since I redid the bearing and sensor the codes haven't come back.
I'm told the "Intelligent Servo Module" is probably bad, but if it was fine before I did the bearing how could it have gone bad now?
It was drivable for a couple miles before this happened, granted the ABS light was on due to sensor not getting a signal. But it's like it drove, the ABS light came on, then went into some sort of failsafe mode.
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Old Sep 9, 2022 | 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by RoyalT93
I erased the codes and tried it again, still having same issue. Since I redid the bearing and sensor the codes haven't come back.
I'm told the "Intelligent Servo Module" is probably bad, but if it was fine before I did the bearing how could it have gone bad now?
It was drivable for a couple miles before this happened, granted the ABS light was on due to sensor not getting a signal. But it's like it drove, the ABS light came on, then went into some sort of failsafe mode.
Can your Snap On tool go into the ISM? It could be the adaptations went bad because of not getting the wheel rotation signal.

This is outside my knowledge, so bear in mind I am pretty much guessing. It sounds like the ISM is in a sort of corrupted state, half working, half not. Possibly resetting it, resetting the adaptations, would help.
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Old Sep 10, 2022 | 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by eric_in_sd
Can your Snap On tool go into the ISM? It could be the adaptations went bad because of not getting the wheel rotation signal.

This is outside my knowledge, so bear in mind I am pretty much guessing. It sounds like the ISM is in a sort of corrupted state, half working, half not. Possibly resetting it, resetting the adaptations, would help.
The Snap-on definitely reads the ISM menu but doesn't have a function to reset or relearn the adaptations.. nor does the ABS module.

Thank you all for the info and help!
I have yet to get this thing moving but I will get eventually!! I truly believe this is something minor and simple to fix just haven't found out how.
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Old Sep 11, 2022 | 07:17 PM
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Originally Posted by RoyalT93
The Snap-on definitely reads the ISM menu but doesn't have a function to reset or relearn the adaptations.. nor does the ABS module.

Thank you all for the info and help!
I have yet to get this thing moving but I will get eventually!! I truly believe this is something minor and simple to fix just haven't found out how.
Does your tool have a screen where you can go into each of the modules? There would be "ME9.7" probably at the upper left corner.

What do you get when you search all the modules for DTC's? Try that, noting, copying, or photographing everything that comes up. There will be tons of old stuff.

Then clear everything, make the problem recur, and see what comes up.
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Old Sep 12, 2022 | 09:57 AM
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Originally Posted by eric_in_sd
Does your tool have a screen where you can go into each of the modules? There would be "ME9.7" probably at the upper left corner.

What do you get when you search all the modules for DTC's? Try that, noting, copying, or photographing everything that comes up. There will be tons of old stuff.

Then clear everything, make the problem recur, and see what comes up.
There was a bunch of codes for the BackDoor module, after I cleared them all out it only comes up with Intake Manifold code in the engine menu and "Road Test Active" in the ABS menu. I tried recalibrating the YAW Rate sensor as last resort now the road test active code won't clear until I finish the road test
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Old Sep 12, 2022 | 02:27 PM
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Originally Posted by RoyalT93
There was a bunch of codes for the BackDoor module, after I cleared them all out it only comes up with Intake Manifold code in the engine menu and "Road Test Active" in the ABS menu. I tried recalibrating the YAW Rate sensor as last resort now the road test active code won't clear until I finish the road test
By "yaw rate" did you mean you performed the level ground 270 degree turn while patting your head and rubbing your belly calibration?
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Old Sep 12, 2022 | 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by eric_in_sd
By "yaw rate" did you mean you performed the level ground 270 degree turn while patting your head and rubbing your belly calibration?
Yes that's exactly what i did. Also while scratching my *** at same time
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Old Sep 12, 2022 | 04:47 PM
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And you can't finish the calibration until the transmission goes into Drive again. I assume after clearing the DTCs you tried running the vehicle but no luck.
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Old Sep 12, 2022 | 10:25 PM
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Originally Posted by eric_in_sd
And you can't finish the calibration until the transmission goes into Drive again. I assume after clearing the DTCs you tried running the vehicle but no luck.
Correct. From what I've read up about it that's the only way it'll clear is to drive.
Things like this is what discourages me from buying a Benz.. I love how they drive, the way they look, but high maintenance come with high class.
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Old Sep 12, 2022 | 11:30 PM
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Alright!
Lets try this.
Take off the ABS relay from front fuse box under the hood. In an otherwise normal GL, it would disable ABS, ESP, Power steering and push the car into limp mode. Then see if you can put the car into drive. If you can, take it for a ride around the block. It won't go more then 2nd or 3rd gear. Then come back, park, (at this point you may also do additional step to disconnect both batteries and touch terminal together) and put the relay back. Start the car and hope for the best.
What I am hoping is that, this would force the system to think that ABS system is shot and it has to abort the test, and go into limp mode.

https://mbworld.org/forums/gl-class-...ml#post6823657

Good Luck.

Last edited by TX07GL450; Sep 12, 2022 at 11:36 PM.
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Old Sep 13, 2022 | 08:16 AM
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Originally Posted by RoyalT93
Correct. From what I've read up about it that's the only way it'll clear is to drive.
Things like this is what discourages me from buying a Benz.. I love how they drive, the way they look, but high maintenance come with high class.
MB's firmware is painful. I had a problem in which carbon deposits were forcing the spark timing, through preignition, to be hopelessly retarded. The system somehow thought this excursion meant the ignition coils or driver chips were broken.

It is practically anti-robust; if it encounters an error, instead of attempting to work around it, and inform the operator what happened, it just gives up. It is simple software, designed to accommodate well a system that is running, but with little in the way of mechanisms to handle possible problems.

Do let us know what happens with the suggestion below. As an alternative, there ought to be some way of resetting the module that thinks you are stuck doing the test. Since you are stuck, explore the "Variant Coding" of the pertinent modules, TCM, ABS. I don't even know what is available there, but maybe you will find something.

Originally Posted by TX07GL450
Alright!
Lets try this.
Take off the ABS relay from front fuse box under the hood. In an otherwise normal GL, it would disable ABS, ESP, Power steering and push the car into limp mode. Then see if you can put the car into drive. If you can, take it for a ride around the block. It won't go more then 2nd or 3rd gear. Then come back, park, (at this point you may also do additional step to disconnect both batteries and touch terminal together) and put the relay back. Start the car and hope for the best.
What I am hoping is that, this would force the system to think that ABS system is shot and it has to abort the test, and go into limp mode.

https://mbworld.org/forums/gl-class-...ml#post6823657

Good Luck.
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Old Sep 14, 2022 | 08:51 PM
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Originally Posted by TX07GL450
Alright!
Lets try this.
Take off the ABS relay from front fuse box under the hood. In an otherwise normal GL, it would disable ABS, ESP, Power steering and push the car into limp mode. Then see if you can put the car into drive. If you can, take it for a ride around the block. It won't go more then 2nd or 3rd gear. Then come back, park, (at this point you may also do additional step to disconnect both batteries and touch terminal together) and put the relay back. Start the car and hope for the best.
What I am hoping is that, this would force the system to think that ABS system is shot and it has to abort the test, and go into limp mode.

https://mbworld.org/forums/gl-class-...ml#post6823657

Good Luck.
Thanks for advice, everyone who responded and bared with me this far. I did pull the ABS and ESP fuses, disconnected the battery and auxiliary battery overnight again... No luck 😕
I Did find out that the Snap On scanners I have can't read 100% of Mercedes systems. So I ordered one on Amazon specifically for Mercedes and I have gotten a bit further with it. I'm now getting these codesC103 - Stored(Event) - No CAN message was received from control unit N1 5/5 (Electric selector lever module (ESM [EWM])).
1709 - Stored(Event) - The actuator motor in component A80 (Intelligent Servo Module for direct select) cannot reach it's specified target position.
2805 - Stored - The signals from the selection range sensor are implausible in comparison with the signals from the ISM.

I just pulled these codes as I was replying back to the forum. I'm still studying these codes. Hopefully this new scan tool pays off 🤞🤞
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Old Sep 15, 2022 | 12:52 AM
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So you have a shifter lever and ISM position mismatch. Since all codes are stored, vice current, it seems like it’s intermittent.

I wonder if you can interrogate the ism in real time while making gear selections to rule out or in a failing shifter or bad connection to it. You’d be looking for shifter position mismatch to what you’re physically doing with it.

conversely a bad ism would report a position not in line with what the selector lever and your mark 1 tactile hand feel is reporting.
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Old Sep 15, 2022 | 07:49 AM
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Good suggestions by Max.

Now that you have written down those errors, consider clearing them. The higher level tools only clear the OBD stuff. With them cleared, you can do as Max suggested and see when they recur.

We have several guys shopping for scan tools. Could you reply with what you bought, and your observations so far?
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Old Sep 15, 2022 | 01:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Max Blast
So you have a shifter lever and ISM position mismatch. Since all codes are stored, vice current, it seems like it’s intermittent.

I wonder if you can interrogate the ism in real time while making gear selections to rule out or in a failing shifter or bad connection to it. You’d be looking for shifter position mismatch to what you’re physically doing with it.

conversely a bad ism would report a position not in line with what the selector lever and your mark 1 tactile hand feel is reporting.
Right and I was finally able to see in the data when I shift it from park to drive or anything else, the scanner does show it going into the requested gear and back into park.
I cleared the codes, in the ESP menu code 5410 came back which is "Road test active"
In the AGW Audio Gateway menu codes U1102 and U1101 have come back, but I'm pretty sure those are unrelated.
ISM Menu doesn't have any codes coming back.

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Old Sep 15, 2022 | 01:51 PM
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Originally Posted by eric_in_sd
Good suggestions by Max.

We have several guys shopping for scan tools. Could you reply with what you bought, and your observations so far?

I was kinda being cheap with it but this is the one I ended up getting. It was fairly cheap, got it prime 2day shipping. So far it has proven it's worth to me lol. As I said before, I was able to finally read more data and pull more codes, simple to use and even came with a micro SD, USB thumb drive and charger.
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Old Sep 15, 2022 | 02:04 PM
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Im also able to shift to neutral with the scanner, it did successfully.
now thru the ISM live Data menu when I shift out of Park, but the scanner still shows it's in Park. But it will shift into neutral with the scanner thru the same menu different function
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Old Sep 15, 2022 | 05:44 PM
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Originally Posted by RoyalT93
Im also able to shift to neutral with the scanner, it did successfully.
now thru the ISM live Data menu when I shift out of Park, but the scanner still shows it's in Park. But it will shift into neutral with the scanner thru the same menu different function
Sounds like it is the stalk control (off the top of my head unlikely) or the module the stalk control is connected to.

Maybe with this tool you can poke into the ESP module and abort the test. You need to explore the modules with your tool anyway.

Or do as Max suggested = unplug the ABS relay and try not to hit anything in your neighborhood.
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Old Sep 15, 2022 | 11:41 PM
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Originally Posted by RoyalT93



Im also able to shift to neutral with the scanner, it did successfully.
now thru the ISM live Data menu when I shift out of Park, but the scanner still shows it's in Park. But it will shift into neutral with the scanner thru the same menu different function
so your ism is faulty
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