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Is this rack wide enough to cover both roof rails? Or do you have to have the crossbars on to mount it - just thinking if you could find a way to mount it to the roof rails and eliminate the crossbars that gives you at least 2 to 3 inches of height reduction.
I do believe the front runner set up works this way.
Unfortunately the rack too narrow (see pic). I plan on building a bigger one that does exactly what you are talking about. My rack is somewhat quiet but if it was lower, that would help a lot.
I built a MOABR (Mother Of All Basket Racks). Same as that one but with one extra center section. It fits the top of the GL perfectly. Like literally made for it.
eric_in_sd
So the ride difference from stock height to off road mode is just slightly stiffer. But there is an exponential "stiffening" to the increase in pressure that is very noticeable when I go higher. The bags feel like they are pretty maxed out (4" lifted mode). I will not use that setting for anything other than getting over an obstacle briefly. And suspension articulation isn't too good at that height either.
eric_in_sd
So the ride difference from stock height to off road mode is just slightly stiffer. But there is an exponential "stiffening" to the increase in pressure that is very noticeable when I go higher. The bags feel like they are pretty maxed out (4" lifted mode). I will not use that setting for anything other than getting over an obstacle briefly. And suspension articulation isn't too good at that height either.
Absolutely, if the spring is maxed out, the dynamics change. Probably an excellent way to shorten the lifetime of the springs to ... now!
Basically, the piston has variable geometry, so without knowing the geometry, it's almost impossible to predict.
Great white paper. Archived.
Note the rolling / sleeve springs typically have a bottom piston that flares out at the bottom. That means the spring gets progressively stiffer when it is at the bottom - when the bump stop is about to hit.
Through the normal range of travel, though, I believe the GL springs have a straight piston.
Air springs provide a near-perfect variable rate spring, softest at minimum deflection and rising gradually to infinitely stiff at full compression.
Note the solid line is a curve. It is subtle, but you can see the force-displacement line is a curve on the upper picture also. With a straight steel spring, this would be a straight line. That is how they offer such a comfy ride, with the bonus of adjustable height. But there is no way to make them as reliable as steel springs.
You can wind steel springs with the same variable rate characteristics, but doing so is a tremendous pain.
Is this rack wide enough to cover both roof rails? Or do you have to have the crossbars on to mount it - just thinking if you could find a way to mount it to the roof rails and eliminate the crossbars that gives you at least 2 to 3 inches of height reduction.
I do believe the front runner set up works this way.
The problem is the GL's rails flare from back to front. So the rack cannot sit neatly either on or between the rails.
If you really got goofy, you could have a recess that sinks down between the cross bars and recovers some of that vertical space.
You are spot on. I was going that route originally but for now...this was a quick fix.
My overall plan is to go with struts and springs and then build some spacers to lift it 2-3 inches. Or higher if the CV joints will allow.
some of the offroad accesories for the wk2 jeep grandcheroke fits on the x164 and x166 . They share similar frames. I am using a rear diff skid pad from the wk2 .
Front spacers for the springs fits also .
In January I found a cheap 2009 550 with plans to lift it for some semi-extreme overlanding. Now I know I could have gone with a lot of different truck choices but it was cheap and seats 7 (which a lot of the others don't).
The PO had just put a complete new airmatic system on the truck about a year ago so I figured I have a little time to play with the suspension before I have to either replace components or go with coils and shocks. But after lurking here on the forms for the last few months, I haven't seen too much info about lifting these rigs with the airmatic system. I know that it lifts 2" on its own when you put it in off road mode. But that only works until 40ish MPH and then it lowers back down to normal height. I wanted a permanent 2" lift so I could have decently big tires full time but I didn't want to sacrifice the nice plush ride of the stock suspension. I was going to make strut spacers but I decided that when the truck was in off road mode...the ride was still pretty bougie.
So my decision was to shorten the level sensor linkage in the front and lengthen the linkage in the rear. This made the computer think that it was at stock height when it was 2" higher. No lights or warnings and I can drive it at any speed with bigger tires. The linkages were only $80 (cheapest lift I've done on any car). I ended up using a wheel adapter to go from the 5x112 pattern to a 5x5 which opened up a lot more off road wheel choices and pushed the wheels out about an extra inch. That was the easy part...clearing the inside of the inner fender well to fit 305/60/18 A/T tires on a 9" wide rim was the challenge. I believe that 285/60's would fit with minimal rubbing but I NEEDED to have 305/60's because...I like challenges. Haha. Seriously, I think the 305's look waaaaaaay better than the 285's or 275's on a 9" wide rim.
Here are some pics to help everyone understand the process.
This is the shortened front linkages. I didn't get pics of the rear but I can if anyone needs it.
Before the lift.
And after. Looks just like when you lift it with the button but this is the normal ride height.
Wheel adapters that go from 5x112 to 5x5 bolt pattern.
Here are the inner fender modifications.
This frame extension had to be cut out and boxed in.
After cutting it out.
After boxing in the frame.
The front driver side inner fender has the windshield washer reservoir that had to move forward about an inch. T
hat was done by cutting and then bending the aluminum box frame that the reservoir is mounted to.
This is where I had to remove a lot of the front bumper, valance, headlight housing and skid plate to access all of the area to modify.
This is what to expect when you get to the aluminum framing.
You can see where I cut the aluminum so that I could bend it forward. Unfortunately I forgot to get pics of it welded back together before I reassembled everything.
I needed to notch out the foam piece that is between the aluminum and front fender.
And this is the reservoir after being moved forward.
The passenger side only needed the rear frame boxed in. The front of the wheel well cleared the compressor with plenty of room so no modification needed to be done there.
As for the rear...I didn't need to do anything.
Here is a pic of the inner fender liner after I modified it. My goal here was to used what I could of the original holes so as not to "swiss cheese" the inner fender. Some zip ties and a heat gun made pretty quick work of any problem areas.
Inner fender tucked back and away
Here is the finished lift at stock ride height which is 2" higher than the original stock ride height and then when you put it in off road mode that adds an additional 2" or so. Let me say that when it's now in off road mode, it is very stiff because it is essentially 4" higher than original stock ride height. I have not checked the CV angles at this height yet (although they don't make any noise) and I don't know how much the airbags can take when compressed rolling over rocks at this height.
2" full time lift. No rubbing on medium terrain.
And this is about a 4" lift with the truck in off road mode. Very stiff.
I'm making this thread to maybe help give ideas to lifting these trucks and fitting them with some bigger tires and more wheel choices since I couldn't find too much out there. They are pretty capable in stock for so with just a little extra tickle, I think they can be pretty good off roaders. I am not an expert in any field and I am learning as I go. But that shouldn't stop anyone from going outside the box. As of posting this, I have only taken it on some moderate trails and it works great. As always...ground clearance is the limiting factor with these rigs. I have some plans in the next few months to push the limits of this truck and see what it can really do. I still need a front bumper guard with a winch and a few other accessories. I am open to all comments good or bad. Thats how we all learn. Cheers, Derek
Hi, my name is Fernando from Uruguay. What about front recovery points? Is it possible to mount something kind of medium to heavy duty? I wouldn't trust the standard screw on hook to recovery pull if its stuck in the mud or deep snow.
03-26-2023, 12:02 PM
