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Lifted and Semi Big Tire Off Road GL550 - Build Thread
In January I found a cheap 2009 550 with plans to lift it for some semi-extreme overlanding. Now I know I could have gone with a lot of different truck choices but it was cheap and seats 7 (which a lot of the others don't).
The PO had just put a complete new airmatic system on the truck about a year ago so I figured I have a little time to play with the suspension before I have to either replace components or go with coils and shocks. But after lurking here on the forms for the last few months, I haven't seen too much info about lifting these rigs with the airmatic system. I know that it lifts 2" on its own when you put it in off road mode. But that only works until 40ish MPH and then it lowers back down to normal height. I wanted a permanent 2" lift so I could have decently big tires full time but I didn't want to sacrifice the nice plush ride of the stock suspension. I was going to make strut spacers but I decided that when the truck was in off road mode...the ride was still pretty bougie.
So my decision was to shorten the level sensor linkage in the front and lengthen the linkage in the rear. This made the computer think that it was at stock height when it was 2" higher. No lights or warnings and I can drive it at any speed with bigger tires. The linkages were only $80 (cheapest lift I've done on any car). I ended up using a wheel adapter to go from the 5x112 pattern to a 5x5 which opened up a lot more off road wheel choices and pushed the wheels out about an extra inch. That was the easy part...clearing the inside of the inner fender well to fit 305/60/18 A/T tires on a 9" wide rim was the challenge. I believe that 285/60's would fit with minimal rubbing but I NEEDED to have 305/60's because...I like challenges. Haha. Seriously, I think the 305's look waaaaaaay better than the 285's or 275's on a 9" wide rim.
Here are some pics to help everyone understand the process.
This is the shortened front linkages. I didn't get pics of the rear but I can if anyone needs it.
Before the lift.
And after. Looks just like when you lift it with the button but this is the normal ride height.
Wheel adapters that go from 5x112 to 5x5 bolt pattern.
Here are the inner fender modifications.
This frame extension had to be cut out and boxed in.
After cutting it out.
After boxing in the frame.
The front driver side inner fender has the windshield washer reservoir that had to move forward about an inch. T
hat was done by cutting and then bending the aluminum box frame that the reservoir is mounted to.
This is where I had to remove a lot of the front bumper, valance, headlight housing and skid plate to access all of the area to modify.
This is what to expect when you get to the aluminum framing.
You can see where I cut the aluminum so that I could bend it forward. Unfortunately I forgot to get pics of it welded back together before I reassembled everything.
I needed to notch out the foam piece that is between the aluminum and front fender.
And this is the reservoir after being moved forward.
The passenger side only needed the rear frame boxed in. The front of the wheel well cleared the compressor with plenty of room so no modification needed to be done there.
As for the rear...I didn't need to do anything.
Here is a pic of the inner fender liner after I modified it. My goal here was to used what I could of the original holes so as not to "swiss cheese" the inner fender. Some zip ties and a heat gun made pretty quick work of any problem areas.
Inner fender tucked back and away
Here is the finished lift at stock ride height which is 2" higher than the original stock ride height and then when you put it in off road mode that adds an additional 2" or so. Let me say that when it's now in off road mode, it is very stiff because it is essentially 4" higher than original stock ride height. I have not checked the CV angles at this height yet (although they don't make any noise) and I don't know how much the airbags can take when compressed rolling over rocks at this height.
2" full time lift. No rubbing on medium terrain.
And this is about a 4" lift with the truck in off road mode. Very stiff.
I'm making this thread to maybe help give ideas to lifting these trucks and fitting them with some bigger tires and more wheel choices since I couldn't find too much out there. They are pretty capable in stock for so with just a little extra tickle, I think they can be pretty good off roaders. I am not an expert in any field and I am learning as I go. But that shouldn't stop anyone from going outside the box. As of posting this, I have only taken it on some moderate trails and it works great. As always...ground clearance is the limiting factor with these rigs. I have some plans in the next few months to push the limits of this truck and see what it can really do. I still need a front bumper guard with a winch and a few other accessories. I am open to all comments good or bad. Thats how we all learn. Cheers, Derek
A word of warning, from personal experience. I was in off-road mode (factory, in the lifted position) and running about 35mph on a dirt road that had some dips in it and blew out a front airbag. I really mean blew it out -- it was shredded. My point is, you're now running all the time at the same inflation point/bag pressure I was at only 35mph with even more pressure when you lift it even higher for off-road mode... I was stuck at Big Bend National Park and had to tow the vehicle back home to repair it. If a bag goes like that, there's no driving it. I always take a spare strut with me when that far out in the sticks since then.
A word of warning, from personal experience. I was in off-road mode (factory, in the lifted position) and running about 35mph on a dirt road that had some dips in it and blew out a front airbag. I really mean blew it out -- it was shredded. My point is, you're now running all the time at the same inflation point/bag pressure I was at only 35mph with even more pressure when you lift it even higher for off-road mode... I was stuck at Big Bend National Park and had to tow the vehicle back home to repair it. If a bag goes like that, there's no driving it. I always take a spare strut with me when that far out in the sticks since then.
That is exactly the biggest problem I am preparing for. I am building a tool/part that can take place of the airbag temporarily so that I can limp home if necessary. Because with the bigger tires, they will rub if a bag deflates.
This is GREAT! I've always felt that GLs were very capable platforms! Do 550s have the off-road package as standard equipment?
Your build could probably go anywhere outside of rock crawling with a low-range transfer case!
What roof rack is that BTW? I've kinda' been looking at a Front Runner Slimline, but don't want to put out that kind of $$$.
I think one Possible logical next step you might find here as a spring conversion. This would be about the only time I would recommend one of those, but yeah, even in my off-road mode I feel that I am approaching the limits of what the airbags can handle.
I think one Possible logical next step you might find here as a spring conversion. This would be about the only time I would recommend one of those, but yeah, even in my off-road mode I feel that I am approaching the limits of what the airbags can handle.
For sure. I figure the first time the suspension fails, I will go that route.
Sad how we talk about the suspension failure like its not if it happens but when.
The funny part is that the Land Rover LR three also sits on airbags, and that is a beat it to **** and back capable overlander from the factory. I looked into some of the differences, and the air suspension system in the LR is more robust than an EORP equipped GL, namely, that it has shields for the bags so rocks and other particulate matter doesn’t enter as easily, making a punctured bag far less likely. So if some sort of shielded air bag is available for the X164 then yeah I would totally roll one but as KWStan points out if you’re alone and unafraid in the wilderness in a bag pops on this you are kind of ****ed.
I think that’ll be the best of both worlds, but in the absence of a robust air bag springs might be the only option.
The funny part is that the Land Rover LR three also sits on airbags, and that is a beat it to **** and back capable overlander from the factory. I looked into some of the differences, and the air suspension system in the LR is more robust than an EORP equipped GL, namely, that it has shields for the bags so rocks and other particulate matter doesn’t enter as easily, making a punctured bag far less likely. So if some sort of shielded air bag is available for the X164 then yeah I would totally roll one but as KWStan points out if you’re alone and unafraid in the wilderness in a bag pops on this you are kind of ****ed.
I think that’ll be the best of both worlds, but in the absence of a robust air bag springs might be the only option.
The funny part is that the Land Rover LR three also sits on airbags, and that is a beat it to **** and back capable overlander from the factory. I looked into some of the differences, and the air suspension system in the LR is more robust than an EORP equipped GL, namely, that it has shields for the bags so rocks and other particulate matter doesn’t enter as easily, making a punctured bag far less likely. So if some sort of shielded air bag is available for the X164 then yeah I would totally roll one but as KWStan points out if you’re alone and unafraid in the wilderness in a bag pops on this you are kind of ****ed.
I think that’ll be the best of both worlds, but in the absence of a robust air bag springs might be the only option.
I 100% agree. The airmatic system seems a little pewny. I am working on a wrap around cylinder that can lock around the airbag front or rear if it punctures and just keep the suspension from collapsing to be able to drive out of "the middle of nowhere" and get to the nearest shop/tow truck/town/home. I'm not planning on spending too much time with this idea so I'll see if it's even possible.
I 100% agree. The airmatic system seems a little pewny. I am working on a wrap around cylinder that can lock around the airbag front or rear if it punctures and just keep the suspension from collapsing to be able to drive out of "the middle of nowhere" and get to the nearest shop/tow truck/town/home. I'm not planning on spending too much time with this idea so I'll see if it's even possible.
Now, remember, some years came with plastic bag shields from the factory that were service bulletin or user removed when it was discovered that all they did was trap rocks and dirt, leading to premature bag failures. Take a look at the LR3 set up and see if some of that could be retrofitted or some kind of enclosure fabricated for a standard bag.
just keep the suspension from collapsing to be able to drive out of "the middle of nowhere" and get to the nearest shop/tow truck/town/home.
Just a thought... why not make a custom set of "bumpstops" that are taller than factory? That way you can at least maintain a "minimal" height when the bags are fully collapsed.
You could even 3D print something in solid TPU and it'd work lol
Note that lifting the vehicle with the air springs does not increase the pressure. It is counter intuitive, but: If you pump air into the spring, you are adding to the volume of air but not its pressure.
Now, with a lifted spring, you are more likely to go over pressure, and blow out the spring, when bouncing because there is more air to be compressed down to the same volume. So doing Raptor-style baja jumps will be more likely to blow out springs if done while lifted. To alleviate this, insert taller bump stops to prevent the spring from being compressed as far. Or don't go jumping and bumping.
Note that if you add weight to the vehicle, the pressure in the spring will increase; letting the suspension self-adjust its height in response will not change the pressure.
It is a fun off-road vehicle, but I would not take it any further off road than can be reached easily with a tow truck. Definitely get the Bilstein rear bags, which have a higher pressure rating, and check all bags frequently for leaks.
This is GREAT! I've always felt that GLs were very capable platforms! Do 550s have the off-road package as standard equipment?
Your build could probably go anywhere outside of rock crawling with a low-range transfer case!
What roof rack is that BTW? I've kinda' been looking at a Front Runner Slimline, but don't want to put out that kind of $$$.
I wish I had the off road package but I don't. I agree that it would level up this rig.
As for the cargo rack...It is a cheap chinese version I got from here. I am actually surprised on how strong it is.
Just a thought... why not make a custom set of "bumpstops" that are taller than factory? That way you can at least maintain a "minimal" height when the bags are fully collapsed.
You could even 3D print something in solid TPU and it'd work lol
Brilliant. Thats why I posted here in the first place because I love new ideas. Sometimes I get tunnel vision and only focus on one thing without looking at all the factors. I will see what I can figure out and let you know. Thanks Sallad
Note that lifting the vehicle with the air springs does not increase the pressure. It is counter intuitive, but: If you pump air into the spring, you are adding to the volume of air but not its pressure.
Now, with a lifted spring, you are more likely to go over pressure, and blow out the spring, when bouncing because there is more air to be compressed down to the same volume. So doing Raptor-style baja jumps will be more likely to blow out springs if done while lifted. To alleviate this, insert taller bump stops to prevent the spring from being compressed as far. Or don't go jumping and bumping.
Note that if you add weight to the vehicle, the pressure in the spring will increase; letting the suspension self-adjust its height in response will not change the pressure.
It is a fun off-road vehicle, but I would not take it any further off road than can be reached easily with a tow truck. Definitely get the Bilstein rear bags, which have a higher pressure rating, and check all bags frequently for leaks.
You are spot on. I was going that route originally but for now...this was a quick fix.
My overall plan is to go with struts and springs and then build some spacers to lift it 2-3 inches. Or higher if the CV joints will allow.
I wish I had the off road package but I don't. I agree that it would level up this rig.
As for the cargo rack...It is a cheap chinese version I got from here. I am actually surprised on how strong it is.
Is this rack wide enough to cover both roof rails? Or do you have to have the crossbars on to mount it - just thinking if you could find a way to mount it to the roof rails and eliminate the crossbars that gives you at least 2 to 3 inches of height reduction.
I do believe the front runner set up works this way.
I wish I had the off road package but I don't. I agree that it would level up this rig.
As for the cargo rack...It is a cheap chinese version I got from here. I am actually surprised on how strong it is.
I built a MOABR (Mother Of All Basket Racks). Same as that one but with one extra center section. It fits the top of the GL perfectly. Like literally made for it.
@Derek McDonald Looks awesome. Impressive amount of work to fit them. Suits it soo much better than the low profiles at the start.
@eric_in_sd I'd love to understand the mechanics of the air springs. Had been thinking about this and how the pressure can't increase for change in height (unless mass changes). With a higher volume, I'd expect the spring constant to be less, as the volume is taken by extending the bag, and compressibility is proportional to volume, so it should move more for the same force compressing it. But this isn't the case, as it feels much stiffer when extended.
I'd love to understand the mechanics of the air springs. Had been thinking about this and how the pressure can't increase for change in height (unless mass changes). With a higher volume, I'd expect the spring constant to be less, as the volume is taken by extending the bag, and compressibility is proportional to volume, so it should move more for the same force compressing it. But this isn't the case, as it feels much stiffer when extended.
Interesting, because I never noticed the springs feeling stiffer when raised. Perhaps it is a question of what one expects to feel?
The air springs should behave according to the ideal gas law: Pressure times Volume = Number (of gas molecules) times a constant times Temperature. Increase the Number and you increase the Volume.
The air spring acts like a piston in a cylinder, so the static pressure has to remain the same - it is the weight pressing on the area of the piston. I am tempted to read pressures from the springs with the suspension raised just to prove myself right or wrong.
I'd have to run through the algebra on the pressure delta for a fixed deflection, but intuitively it seems like a larger spring would be softer, not firmer.
03-22-2023, 04:16 PM
