GL Class (X164) 2007-2012: GL320CDI, GL420CDI, GL450, GL550

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Old Aug 16, 2023 | 09:56 AM
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2012 gl450
Gasoline

Hi, just a question regarding what kind of gasoline to buy I have a 2012 GL 450 most of the time I buy premium but is it OK to use regular once in a while?
Pete
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Old Aug 16, 2023 | 11:24 AM
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NGL450 w/EORP, S550
It’s ok to use regular always.
the engine management software automatically adapts and prevents detonation by reducing timing. This results in a small loss of power.
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Old Aug 16, 2023 | 04:59 PM
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It has been around 18 months on regular gas now, and my ECU's adaptations haven't even noticed. I almost wonder if something is wrong, but the engine runs fine and there is no audible knocking. This imperviousness may be due to my occasional use of high-strength PEA fuel additive (FYI Gumout Regane is best PEA/$ I found), cleaning carbon off the intake valves. Given the price difference between premium and regular, I could use a bottle every other tank and still come out ahead.

@Pmanc If you have a respectable scan tool, you can peek at your ECU adaptations.

One strategy would be to peek at the fuel adaptation every so often, and run Regane when it flips.
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Old Aug 16, 2023 | 05:09 PM
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NGL450 w/EORP, S550
I just blow carbon out the engine by revving it to the moon every now and then under full load.

Hopefully that’ll make it past the cats without clogging them.
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Old Aug 16, 2023 | 05:14 PM
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For normal driving with the engine barely needing to make any power you'll be fine with lower octane fuel. Knocking/pre-ignition becomes an issue at high engine loads, like when you are towing or running the engine at WOT to redline. While the ECU will retard timing when knock is detected, the engine will still knock, because the ECU will continue to try to advance the timing again. Knocking over time will damage the engine. So the general advise is to take it easy and avoid high engine loads while running on octane that's lower than the recommended octane level. But for the daily grunt and stop&go traffic premium fuel makes no difference. The engine isn't working hard enough for knocking to become an issue. Just keep in mind that premium fuel tends to have higher grade and more detergents to clean fuel injectors and such.
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Old Aug 16, 2023 | 05:58 PM
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Originally Posted by superswiss
For normal driving with the engine barely needing to make any power you'll be fine with lower octane fuel. Knocking/pre-ignition becomes an issue at high engine loads, like when you are towing or running the engine at WOT to redline. While the ECU will retard timing when knock is detected, the engine will still knock, because the ECU will continue to try to advance the timing again. Knocking over time will damage the engine. So the general advise is to take it easy and avoid high engine loads while running on octane that's lower than the recommended octane level. But for the daily grunt and stop&go traffic premium fuel makes no difference. The engine isn't working hard enough for knocking to become an issue. Just keep in mind that premium fuel tends to have higher grade and more detergents to clean fuel injectors and such.
Valid points about part throttle. The engine's compression is effectively reduced with partial throttle and higher rpm. However, I will note that I observed preignition a couple of times, very early on, possibly due to carbon deposits, at light throttle and modest rpm. Keep in mind the ignition timing map is two-dimensional (rpm and throttle), not the old school one-dimension vacuum advance.

Reiterating the points from my post above:
The ME9.7 ECU adapts ignition timing to "low quality fuel". It appears to have two maps, although it could learn a large number. The ECU Variant Coding for this is "Low Quality Fuel" No/Yes.
The key engine cleaning ingredients can be found on the auto parts store shelf. The most important ingredient, polyethyl amine, or PEA, is found at the best price point in Gumout Regane Complete. About $8bux a bottle at Auto Zone.
Possibly the most "intelligent" approach to the gas quality choice would be to monitor the ECU adaptation, and when it switches to "Yes", run a tank of Regane gas and then reset the switch back to No.

Or put an endoscope in to see how carboned the intake valves are. In one period, I had such bad carbon that it disabled the engine; I repaired it by rigging water injection for the worst cylinders. The problem has not recurred, but I have also avoided doing repeated short trips in the winter, and have been periodically running tanks with Regane. If I had more initiative, I'd pull the plugs and take a look at the valves - but the fuel timing adaptation has not reset to Yes.
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Old Aug 16, 2023 | 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Max Blast
I just blow carbon out the engine by revving it to the moon every now and then under full load.

Hopefully that’ll make it past the cats without clogging them.
But these are direct injection engine, this trick wont really work as nothing is getting sprayed onto the intake valves.
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Old Aug 16, 2023 | 10:32 PM
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It most certainly is not direct injection. Some of the later M-series probably are but not the M273 or 272.

Read Eric’s post above about his carbon issues.
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Old Aug 16, 2023 | 11:36 PM
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Would I be wrong to mention that knocking (pre-ignition, AKA dieseling) is not as much of an issue at higher altitudes? At sea level it is more prevalent due to cylinder pressures being higher just because of atmospheric pressure.
Obviously if you've got a turbocharged engine the above doesn't apply.
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Old Aug 17, 2023 | 12:40 PM
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2012 gl450
Ok thanks for all the good info
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Old Aug 17, 2023 | 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by rapidoxidation
Would I be wrong to mention that knocking (pre-ignition, AKA dieseling) is not as much of an issue at higher altitudes? At sea level it is more prevalent due to cylinder pressures being higher just because of atmospheric pressure.
Obviously if you've got a turbocharged engine the above doesn't apply.
For naturally aspirated engines that is true. But with forced induction, the turbo/super chargers compensate for the thinner air. Pre-ignition is actually more likely with forced induction in general, because the air is pressurized to fit more into the cylinders.
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Old Aug 17, 2023 | 01:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Max Blast
It most certainly is not direct injection. Some of the later M-series probably are but not the M273 or 272.
Well, his IS direct injection - it's a diesel. 320 CDI. But this is a gasoline discussion. It is confusing.

People also get confused by direct gasoline injection's tendency to accumulate carbon from crankcase vapors on the manifold side of the intake valves.

My valve carbon was on the bottom, combustion chamber side, likely due in part to oil leakage past the valve stem seals. But all the intake valves had some carbon on them, and the owner's manual even points out that such carbon buildup is a known problem. Something about the valve stem seals on this motor? Or how the fuel droplets swirl in the combustion chamber before ignition?
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