So recently, my GL45s started to sag pretty badly on the right rear side. As usual, it was a leaking airbag and I had that fixed. The shop (a reputable Mercedes-centric independent shop) told me the following things were find that would need attention in the future:

Lower control arm bushings shot (best to replace the entire CA assembly)
Upper control arm bushings shot (best to replace entire CA assembly)
Transmission mount is collapsed (recommend replacement)
Oil cooler/filter housing tower is leaking a little (no oil in coolant yet)

Basically, all the above (using OEM stuff) would cost another $4,000 or so. Would you guys prioritize any of these or just do them all? I can do very basic stuff like change oil, ignition coils, plugs, batteries, etc, but nothing too complex and I don't have a lift.

 

Mileage?

 

105,000

 

Lower control arm bushings shot (best to replace the entire CA assembly)
--- 2x front lower control arms + 2x ball joints, part cost $500 (delphi from rockauto, made in turkey)
Upper control arm bushings shot (best to replace entire CA assembly)
--- 2x front upper CAs, part cost $130
Transmission mount is collapsed (recommend replacement)
--- part cost $100
Oil cooler/filter housing tower is leaking a little (no oil in coolant yet)
--- part cost $40

I would add the following:
sway bar repair kit $131 at FCP euro
and front brake rotor and pads if they need to be replaced.

all above parts adds up to $900.
A good indy shop or mobile mechanic might charge $600 for labor for all above.
for $1600 its worth it.



Basically, all the above (using OEM stuff) would cost another $4,000 or so. Would you guys prioritize any of these or just do them all? I can do very basic stuff like change oil, ignition coils, plugs, batteries, etc, but nothing too complex and I don't have a lift.[/QUOTE]
oil cooler resealing is pretty easy job, you can do it yourself (just watch a few Youtube tutorial videos)

 

Thanks! The brakes have already been done. I'll add the sway bar links- front and rear. Are the Delphi parts pretty good?

 

The story of Delphi is interesting. GM was the biggest vertically integrated automobile manufacturer, making almost the entire vehicle in-house. That is a management headache, though, and they spun off Delphi Automotive. To untangle how to get from that Delphi to the current would take more stamina than I have to offer. At least one can hope that the genealogy back to OEM is reassuring, although GM was not known for its impeccable quality.

Given that the Delphi control arms are made in the same country as Lemforder, it is a reasonable guess they are the same unit.

The fact one has to worry about the quality of a big hunk of cast steel with rubber bushings pressed in is disappointing but a testament to how hidden shortcuts (literally the quality of the rubber!) can be the undoing.

 

as others have stated here you’re being taken to the cleaners by your Indy…

You could probably come out ahead of that by buying MB parts from the Mercedes parts desk and installing it yourself, or having a mobile mechanic come and do it for you in your driveway. No lift required here as you can jack up the front and do both the lower and upper control arms. I tried once doing lower control arm bushings by pressing them in while on the car, and that is simply not possible, FYI. If you want to retain your original control, arms and buy high-quality bushings, there’s quite a bit of labor and getting all of the control arms off the vehicle and a hydraulic press involved. which is why most parts swappers find it preferable to just buy cheap Chinese control arms with questionable rubber in them.

if cost is the bottom line and you can afford to be without the vehicle for a while I would put it on jackstands in my garage and takeoff all control arms, press out the bushings and replace with new MB original part bushings pressed back in.

The oil cooler seals are very accessible at the front of the engine, and should totally be DIY.

 

Yeah, these guys are a pricey Merc shop for sure. They are just below dealer cost now that they have become super popular. I truly appreciate all this input and will attempt to do this myself since we could use the other vehicle. I was not aware that OEM bushings were available. I was assuming that Lemforder arms/bushings were basically OEM. I don't mind swapping full arms and swaybar links myself either. I can have a friend help me (he is more repair savvy).

 

The control arms are a question of steering and ride quality, and won't become a safety concern for a long time.

Sealing the oil cooler is apparently easy, but again may never leak oil into the coolant.

The transmission mount is relatively easy; at least it appears so on WIS.

I need to do all the above on my GL, and all are items that keep slipping down the priority list.

 

I had a trusted indy in San Diego, and while it was nice to know I could rely on them, they were not much cheaper than the dealership. I paid about $900bux labor to have the fuel pump changed, for example. The relative plus is they were willing to consider work that the dealership would not do, such as installing a rebuilt transmission.

 

Trans mount is easy. Upper and lower control arms are both pretty easy too. I wouldn't even try to change the bushings in the lower control arm. I first bought all lemforder bushings, but they aren't easy to get out. There isn't much area there to push against. You almost need driving tools machined to the right diameter. Also, none of the sides are parallel so you end up pushing at an angle unless you shim it. I ended up buying new delphi control arms from amazon instead.



I couldn't get the inner sleeve off of the rear inner bushing. I had to cut the rubber out then cut the sleeve off of the control arm shaft. New control arm came with it already installed.

 

There is a company that posts here on MBWorld, selling a bushing system that not only allows you to change the bushings, but provides for camber adjustability afterward.

 

K-Mac... $595 for the inner bushings and the tools. Don't think they include a tool for the middle bushing though, which was bad on mine.

Maybe I'm lucky, but I don't see the edge tire wear they supposedly fix. I guess if I was lowered it might be more of an issue.

 

I did the lower control arm bushings, but by the time I paid for labor at the machine shop to get them pressed in/out, the cost savings relative to new control arms wasn't nearly as big as I expected. If that rear bushing is shot, alignment will be variable and tire wear will be accelerated. I don't think you can get bushings for the uppers, just replacement arms. My ball joints were actually still good at 200K miles, so that may not be necessary if you go the bushing route.

 

Front upper bushings are available. A2513330114. Complete arms are cheap enough though, and you can't replace the upper ball joint.

 

I think I will replace the arms. Messing with the bushings may be difficult for me. I don't even know a decent shop that can do this. My friend says he will help me but he does not get back to Denver till December January. Not a big deal since this stuff can wait. He is pretty handy and works on his vehicles.

 

Ive done all of these things. I bought the bushings and did them - but would never do it this way again for the lower arms. Buy the complete units from Lemforder from FCP Euro. Do the sway bar bushings and links as well. It will make all the difference.

As for oil cooler its a 2 hour job. I did it. A bit needs to come off to be able to access it. its a DIY if your patient.

 

The most annoying part of this all to me is the control arms would last forever if they used actual bearings instead of relying on the stretching of the rubber.

But on the bright side, you can recover 23, maybe 24 cents for the scrap steel.

 

maybe some company could rebuild the massive lower control arms, by replacing the worn rubber bushing.

 

The oil cooler seal is pretty doable, but you have to remove the PS reservoir to get at some of the cooler bolts, which is messy and a little tricky remove because there isn't much room to get at 2 of the 3 torx head bolts that hold it in place (I use an old fashioned allen wrench on one of them because of tight clearance). There is also a spring clip that can be a challenge to reinstall (I use a combination of needle nose vise grips, a screw driver and use some thin wire to tie it something so it doesn't get lost when you fail to get it to click in place the first 3 times). Once you get the reservoir out of the way, the cooler is straightforward. Remove 4 or 5 torx head bolts, seperate the cooler, scrape off the old hard seal and replace with new.

 

I see that you are in Denver, what shop is this?

 

The owner could do that themselves, with the right insertion tool.

 

Quick question- I was looking for the transmission mount. They have two OEM versions- one for the vehicle with the offroad package and one for vehicles without. I don't think mine has an offroad package but I am not sure. I have a button that shows a bumpy road but not sure that is the offroad package. How can I be sure, so I get the right part?

 

You ought to do a VIN card for your vehicle. It will show you all the options.

EORP is rare. You would see an extra dial on your center console for center and rear lockers. Also low range. Your button showing your GL going over rough terrain is the suspension lift. Your owner's manual clarifies these items.

 

Thanks! I’ll do a VIN check but you are right. I have no lockers so it is a non off-road one.