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Watching YouTube vid and a guy mentions a burning plastic smell
That is one thing I haven’t mentioned yet. I do get a pretty strong burning plastic smell occasionally.
this guy who had what sounds like the same smell found a hole burned in the base of the valve block which turned out to be his problem.
So, I guess I’ll have to order a new valve block unless one of you guys tells me I’m barking up the wrong tree and I feel like I should order a new plastic outlet line in case mine has scratches in it which might cause a leak.
thanks again for all of your help so far. Cause of burning plastic smell on YouTube vid. Maybe the cause of burning plastic in my situation?
Last edited by 1xsculler; Jan 28, 2024 at 11:47 AM.
That is one thing I haven’t mentioned yet. I do get a pretty strong burning plastic smell occasionally.
this guy who had what sounds like the same smell found a hole burned in the base of the valve block which turned out to be his problem.
So, I guess I’ll have to order a new valve block unless one of you guys tells me I’m barking up the wrong tree and I feel like I should order a new plastic outlet line in case mine has scratches in it which might cause a leak.
thanks again for all of your help so far.
It could be your fuse block. The PCB traces are not capable of handling the current they are fused for. Pull up your engine compartment fuse block and inspect the back side.
It could be your fuse block. The PCB traces are not capable of handling the current they are fused for. Pull up your engine compartment fuse block and inspect the back side.
The exact problem that I experienced with the old four year old compressor for months, i.e. no sagging no matter how long I let it sit, ride and ride height good…
the only issue is the malfunction error displays as a picture of the car with an up arrow.
Other than the fuse block which looks good what else could cause that occasional strong burning plastic smell other than a burned hole and/or crack in the base of the valve block?
Did you check the underside of the fuse block - the traces?
Also, you really need to put a diagnostic computer on it to find out what the Airmatic module error messages are. The dash display only shows you summarized info.
It could be the valve block, but it is impossible to tell from summary level information.
My compressor burnt itself out. I dismantled it out of curiosity and found that the piston has rubber rings. The head gasket material (from memory) was also made of plastic/rubber noting there is also the small ball bearing type ***** (purpose unknown to me) inside the unit. Its been about 4 years since I replaced it so my memory is a bit sketchy on this. However my experience and that of others is that the malfunction warning is almost always the compressor overheating. Don't discount it in your search for the buring rubber smell.
My compressor burnt itself out. I dismantled it out of curiosity and found that the piston has rubber rings. The head gasket material (from memory) was also made of plastic/rubber noting there is also the small ball bearing type ***** (purpose unknown to me) inside the unit. Its been about 4 years since I replaced it so my memory is a bit sketchy on this. However my experience and that of others is that the malfunction warning is almost always the compressor overheating. Don't discount it in your search for the buring rubber smell.
I bet the ball bearings were part of check valves.
My dash warning was "compressor taking too long to refill central reservoir". Really, there is no substitute for a decent diagnostic tool, ideally one with bidirectional capability. @1xsculler is poking around in the dark. Even with a good tool, diagnosis is like calling a house party for directions, only to get a drunk chick on the phone. Without such a tool, one is just driving up and down streets listening for loud music.
Can you recommend a reasonably priced diagnostic tool that will diagnose my issue?
Have an I-carsoft MB ll but I don’t think it will help me on this.
After reading the instructions maybe it will help.
Last edited by 1xsculler; Jan 29, 2024 at 04:20 PM.
Icars-Oft will do. Go into Airmatic and look at the DTCs. Note them and their descriptions. If you have the option to clear the DTCs, clear them and then see what recurs.
Looks like the icarsoft V3 is a much better tool than V2. I have V2 and its useful but having to search through 25+ modules one at a time to read codes is painful. I understand that V3 has fixed this but you'd want to make sure.
It depends on what you want to do such as just read and clear codes, or do you want the ability to make adjustments as well? If I had my time again I'd have bought a bidirectional one but they were very expensive at the time. Id be over-speccing it so you get a longer life span from it.
This vehicle has no default codes on icarsoft MB ll
I’m obviously doing something wrong as I never could find Airmatic.
I did spray soapy water on the pump outlet tubing at the fitting and on all of the tubes/fittings on top of the valve block while the pump was on and the vehicle was rising and I couldn’t detect any air bubbles.
Installing new Arnott valve block tomorrow or Wednesday. I’m hoping I find a hole burned in the bottom of the old one which will give me hope that I’m heading in the right direction.
I must be a Neanderthal on this icarsoft as I never yet have found it to be useful for anything!!!
Last edited by 1xsculler; Jan 29, 2024 at 06:58 PM.
The i980 (I think) and the MBII access Airmatic.They are capable tools, but just don't have the bidirectional capability which is extremely useful in diagnosing Airmatic.
The Autel MP808 is bidirectional.
You are setting yourself up for a tremendous amount of effort and cost playing Parts Darts. I strongly recommend you get your diagnostic computer situation under control. You are flying near-blind otherwise.
With my V2, the airmatic only ever showed 2 code and that was that the reservoir was slow to fill. Even though Ive changed all airbags, compressor and valve block at different times. I don't believe that the icarsoft V2 does airmatic well at all.
You said you couldn't find it? You are searching by model and then by a full system scan and not just OBDII?
Looks like the icarsoft V3 is a much better tool than V2. I have V2 and its useful but having to search through 25+ modules one at a time to read codes is painful. I understand that V3 has fixed this but you'd want to make sure.
It depends on what you want to do such as just read and clear codes, or do you want the ability to make adjustments as well? If I had my time again I'd have bought a bidirectional one but they were very expensive at the time. Id be over-speccing it so you get a longer life span from it.
Looking at the icarsOft web site, it appears the v 3.0 is bidirectional, but it is called "bidirectory", so who knows how well it is implemented. I'd pay the extra and get the MP808, which you can use for all vehicles.
With my V2, the airmatic only ever showed 2 code and that was that the reservoir was slow to fill. Even though Ive changed all airbags, compressor and valve block at different times. I don't believe that the icarsoft V2 does airmatic well at all.
You said you couldn't find it? You are searching by model and then by a full system scan and not just OBDII?
I am pretty sure that is more due to Airmatic simply not providing information, rather than the tool not accessing the information.
Airmatic has no way of diagnosing a leaky air spring, for example.
The "slow to refill" message means the pump is leaking. Airmatic only runs the pump when it is raising the suspension or when it needs to refill the reservoir.
The Airmatic system is simply rather crude. There could be a bunch of pressure sensors but there is only one. It appears to have no logic for monitoring change in ride height over time.
Will the Autel MP 808 diagnose as well as what the dealers have?
You still have not said what diagnostic tool you have in your hands. Icarsoft makes many different tools, and we tend to assume people are using the MB-specific tool.
If you have the MB-specific tool and are having a hard time using it, get help. You will not find the more powerful tools easier to use.
Forget about "the tool the dealers use". Theirs, or the copy you would have to use, will have you lost in the weeds in no time.
You still have not said what diagnostic tool you have in your hands. Icarsoft makes many different tools, and we tend to assume people are using the MB-specific tool.
If you have the MB-specific tool and are having a hard time using it, get help. You will not find the more powerful tools easier to use.
Forget about "the tool the dealers use". Theirs, or the copy you would have to use, will have you lost in the weeds in no time.
icarsoft MB ll is the model I have. Are there other specifications that would identify my scanner more accurately?
icarsoft MB ll is the model I have. Are there other specifications that would identify my scanner more accurately?
That tool is more than sufficient. If you cannot figure out how to use it, get someone to help you. Otherwise you will be flying blind, replacing components here and there based on rumors. There is no getting around that this is a highly computerized vehicle.
It seems to be simple enough to use but it keeps saying, “this vehicle has no fault codes” or something like that.
You have to go into the Airmatic section and view DTCs (Diagnostic Trouble Codes). It has been three years since I played with my MBII, so I don't remember the exact steps. But I recall both seeing DTCs and probing module data, such as pressures, ride heights, and so forth.
Possibly you can scan for all DTCs, but I would not do that. It will take a while and drown you in useless data.
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