Air-matic (problem-matic) malfunction
Do the white plastic (plugs) come out of the brass fittings prior to pushing the white tubes in???
I Can’t seem to remove them IF they are removable.
The white plastic shipping plug was easy to remove from the brass outlet fitting on the new Arnott P-3277 compressor I just installed????




Possibly you can scan for all DTCs, but I would not do that. It will take a while and drown you in useless data.
Do the white plastic (plugs) come out of the brass fittings prior to pushing the white tubes in???
I Can’t seem to remove them IF they are removable.
The white plastic shipping plug was easy to remove from the brass outlet fitting on the new Arnott P-3277 compressor I just installed????
Talk about freekin confusing.
I mean is there ANY difference between the $50 Chinese units on Amazon that look identical to a Chinese Arnott $250 unit? The Arnott guy said they were two different animals. I’m very skeptical of all of this.
Maybe I need a new one and maybe I don’t but I now have a few more days to try to get some meaningful info out of my icarsoft MB ll.
I installed a new Arnott P-3722 a few days ago and it acts exactly like the old Chinese Arnott pump I installed four years ago, i,e. Malfunction message on dash with a picture of a car with an up arrow.
No sagging on any corner, ride height good and suspension works well. No air leaks at the pump outlet or on the valve block.
To initially be steered wrong by the Rockauto web-site selling me a $250 Chinese Arnott pump that Arnott themselves doesn’t even recommend IS maddening to say the least!!!!!
Maybe I’m getting somewhere.
Check component Y36b1 (Airmatic pressure sensor).
Where is the central reservoir and/or charge valve and/or the Airmatic pressure sensor?
Last edited by 1xsculler; Jan 31, 2024 at 03:08 PM.
I don't know about the various valve blocks, except that I installed a Chinesium one because I was flying blind, and lost time tearing my hair out because the one I bought did not work at all, out of the box. I am sticking with your issue because I remember the pain. In fact, it motivated me to create the following schematic:
That does not mean that all Chinese made valve blocks are bad. What it does mean is that the reliability of copies is sufficiently low that taking such chances is a bad idea.
I would absolutely not install that Chinese made Arnott valve block. If you end up replacing the valve block, install the best.
I would instead grit my teeth and explore the Airmatic module in your MBII.
Your MBII probably will not report all errors unless you instruct it to query each module. That process takes time, like 30 seconds.
When it is reporting no error codes, it probably means no OBDII errors, which would be what triggers a Check Engine Light. Airmatic won't trigger a CEL, as it is not emissions related. You need to go into the Airmatic module on your MBII and check the DTCs.
From a Google search it appears that the pressure sensor is within the valve block???
I’ll have to find the central reservoir and the air line that goes from the compressor or from the valve block to it.
Your schematic is very helpful but I’m not aware of an airline exiting the valve block other than the ones to the four corners and the inlet from the pump.
Where is the airline from the pump or from the valve lock to the central reservoir and from where does it originate?
Last edited by 1xsculler; Jan 31, 2024 at 03:30 PM. Reason: Google search
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From a Google search it appears that the pressure sensor is within the valve block???
I’ll have to find the central reservoir and the air line that goes from the compressor or from the valve block to it.
Your schematic is very helpful but I’m not aware of an airline exiting the valve block other than the ones to the four corners and the inlet from the pump.
Where is the airline from the pump or from the valve lock to the central reservoir and from where does it originate?
Ok, we’re making progress.
I’ll isolate the four skinny ones going to each corner and follow the fifth one to the reservoir, wherever it may be. I hope I find a kink in the one going to the reservoir which just might solve my issue.
Found the reservoir and the line going to it. Found the air line in the engine compartment but tracing it for a kink sounds like a daunting task. I guess I could disconnect it at the valve block and at the reservoir and blow compressed air through it checking for patency.
I’m hoping the problem lies with the pressure sensor within the valve block and that a new one solves the problem.
Last edited by 1xsculler; Feb 1, 2024 at 05:15 PM.
Does it make sense to submerge the central reservoir in water while running the pump to raise the vehicle to look for leaks there since one of the DTCs says reservoir filling too slowly?




Have you completed the soapy water test on all other components first? You need to do that with the car sitting on its own weight and with the bags full pressurised and at their highest point.
Last edited by BlackML550; Feb 1, 2024 at 04:21 PM.



