GL Class (X164) 2007-2012: GL320CDI, GL420CDI, GL450, GL550

Air-matic (problem-matic) malfunction

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Old Jan 30, 2024 | 06:48 PM
  #51  
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GLS450
Arnott VB -3267 Chinese?

Is the made in China Arnott VB-3267 the best valve block to get? It’s the only one Rockauto lists.
Do the white plastic (plugs) come out of the brass fittings prior to pushing the white tubes in???
I Can’t seem to remove them IF they are removable.
The white plastic shipping plug was easy to remove from the brass outlet fitting on the new Arnott P-3277 compressor I just installed????
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Old Jan 30, 2024 | 08:18 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by eric_in_sd
You have to go into the Airmatic section and view DTCs (Diagnostic Trouble Codes). It has been three years since I played with my MBII, so I don't remember the exact steps. But I recall both seeing DTCs and probing module data, such as pressures, ride heights, and so forth.

Possibly you can scan for all DTCs, but I would not do that. It will take a while and drown you in useless data.
It looks like he's just going to the OBDII section. Go to "Diagnostics" on the first screen. Then to MB, then pick from the latest version of software, then pick model series ie W164, then hit model, followed by fuel type, engine type, then "smart scan". When the scanning is finished (about 90 seconds) then go to into each module on the page that appears on screen and hit "Read Codes". You need to go into each module 1 by 1.
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Old Jan 30, 2024 | 08:22 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by 1xsculler
Is the made in China Arnott VB-3267 the best valve block to get? It’s the only one Rockauto lists.
Do the white plastic (plugs) come out of the brass fittings prior to pushing the white tubes in???
I Can’t seem to remove them IF they are removable.
The white plastic shipping plug was easy to remove from the brass outlet fitting on the new Arnott P-3277 compressor I just installed????
If I were you I would just unscrew the brass fittings. This whole notion of replacing the fittings seems highly suspect to me. Too easy to damage the plastic tube. Ask me how I know.
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Old Jan 30, 2024 | 08:23 PM
  #54  
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Although, I still am confused as to why you are replacing it, going on just a rumor of it being a problem. But you must do what you are going to do.
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Old Jan 31, 2024 | 02:31 PM
  #55  
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Arnott confusing?

So, I received an Arnott VB-3267 from Rockauto and noticed it was made in China so I called Arnott and asked them about this. Their technician said that I should order a VB-3823 as this is the European made unit that the dealers use. Both were about $250?
Talk about freekin confusing.
I mean is there ANY difference between the $50 Chinese units on Amazon that look identical to a Chinese Arnott $250 unit? The Arnott guy said they were two different animals. I’m very skeptical of all of this.
Maybe I need a new one and maybe I don’t but I now have a few more days to try to get some meaningful info out of my icarsoft MB ll.
I installed a new Arnott P-3722 a few days ago and it acts exactly like the old Chinese Arnott pump I installed four years ago, i,e. Malfunction message on dash with a picture of a car with an up arrow.
No sagging on any corner, ride height good and suspension works well. No air leaks at the pump outlet or on the valve block.
To initially be steered wrong by the Rockauto web-site selling me a $250 Chinese Arnott pump that Arnott themselves doesn’t even recommend IS maddening to say the least!!!!!
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Old Jan 31, 2024 | 02:49 PM
  #56  
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Found Airmatic in icarsoft MB ll.

Fault in component Y36y5 (Airmatic central reservoir charge valve) or pinched pneumatic line between the compressor and the central reservoir.
Maybe I’m getting somewhere.
Check component Y36b1 (Airmatic pressure sensor).
Where is the central reservoir and/or charge valve and/or the Airmatic pressure sensor?

Last edited by 1xsculler; Jan 31, 2024 at 03:08 PM.
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Old Jan 31, 2024 | 03:04 PM
  #57  
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You don't need a frontal lobotomy; you need "a bottle in front o' me".

I don't know about the various valve blocks, except that I installed a Chinesium one because I was flying blind, and lost time tearing my hair out because the one I bought did not work at all, out of the box. I am sticking with your issue because I remember the pain. In fact, it motivated me to create the following schematic:



That does not mean that all Chinese made valve blocks are bad. What it does mean is that the reliability of copies is sufficiently low that taking such chances is a bad idea.

I would absolutely not install that Chinese made Arnott valve block. If you end up replacing the valve block, install the best.

I would instead grit my teeth and explore the Airmatic module in your MBII.

Your MBII probably will not report all errors unless you instruct it to query each module. That process takes time, like 30 seconds.

When it is reporting no error codes, it probably means no OBDII errors, which would be what triggers a Check Engine Light. Airmatic won't trigger a CEL, as it is not emissions related. You need to go into the Airmatic module on your MBII and check the DTCs.
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Old Jan 31, 2024 | 03:12 PM
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I edited my thread after getting into Airmatic on my scanner.

Thank you very, very much for hanging in there with me on this issue of a problematic suspension.
From a Google search it appears that the pressure sensor is within the valve block???
I’ll have to find the central reservoir and the air line that goes from the compressor or from the valve block to it.
Your schematic is very helpful but I’m not aware of an airline exiting the valve block other than the ones to the four corners and the inlet from the pump.
Where is the airline from the pump or from the valve lock to the central reservoir and from where does it originate?



Last edited by 1xsculler; Jan 31, 2024 at 03:30 PM. Reason: Google search
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Old Jan 31, 2024 | 03:46 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by 1xsculler
Thank you very, very much for hanging in there with me on this issue of a problematic suspension.
From a Google search it appears that the pressure sensor is within the valve block???
I’ll have to find the central reservoir and the air line that goes from the compressor or from the valve block to it.
Your schematic is very helpful but I’m not aware of an airline exiting the valve block other than the ones to the four corners and the inlet from the pump.
Where is the airline from the pump or from the valve lock to the central reservoir and from where does it originate?
There are six. Five skinny and one thicker. Don't you have a valve block sitting in front of you right now?

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Old Jan 31, 2024 | 04:03 PM
  #60  
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Yes I do

Five skinny ones, four of which are going to each corner and the 5th black one going to the reservoir, and one thicker one going to the pump plus an electrical connector.
Ok, we’re making progress.
I’ll isolate the four skinny ones going to each corner and follow the fifth one to the reservoir, wherever it may be. I hope I find a kink in the one going to the reservoir which just might solve my issue.

Found the reservoir and the line going to it. Found the air line in the engine compartment but tracing it for a kink sounds like a daunting task. I guess I could disconnect it at the valve block and at the reservoir and blow compressed air through it checking for patency.

I’m hoping the problem lies with the pressure sensor within the valve block and that a new one solves the problem.

Last edited by 1xsculler; Feb 1, 2024 at 05:15 PM.
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Old Jan 31, 2024 | 05:51 PM
  #61  
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You can get live readings from the pressure sensor with your MBII.

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Old Jan 31, 2024 | 06:31 PM
  #62  
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Ok

Thank you. I will try to do that.

Last edited by 1xsculler; Feb 1, 2024 at 01:20 AM.
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Old Feb 1, 2024 | 09:26 AM
  #63  
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Central reservoir

I suppose I could unbolt the central reservoir from the frame and submerge it in water while the pump was raising the car and look for bubbles as one YouTuber found that his reservoir had a crack in it.
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Old Feb 1, 2024 | 04:10 PM
  #64  
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Am I on the right track?

The only pressure sensor/..regulator is in the valve block, right?
Does it make sense to submerge the central reservoir in water while running the pump to raise the vehicle to look for leaks there since one of the DTCs says reservoir filling too slowly?
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Old Feb 1, 2024 | 04:19 PM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by 1xsculler
The only pressure sensor/..regulator is in the valve block, right?
Does it make sense to submerge the central reservoir in water while running the pump to raise the vehicle to look for leaks there since one of the DTCs says reservoir filling too slowly?
Yes. The pressure sensor is in the valve block. If you'd look at post No. 26 in this thread, you'll have seen the complete Airmatic diagrams amongst other things for the location and description of all components.

Have you completed the soapy water test on all other components first? You need to do that with the car sitting on its own weight and with the bags full pressurised and at their highest point.

Last edited by BlackML550; Feb 1, 2024 at 04:21 PM.
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Old Feb 1, 2024 | 05:11 PM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by 1xsculler
The only pressure sensor/..regulator is in the valve block, right?
Does it make sense to submerge the central reservoir in water while running the pump to raise the vehicle to look for leaks there since one of the DTCs says reservoir filling too slowly?
Before you do anything else, find what DTCs you have. Then clear the DTCs, run the vehicle, and see what DTCs recur.
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