My car can sit for days with no suspension sag anywhere?
I’ve checked all of the pump and valve block fittings with soapy water…no leaks.
My Malfunction error MUST be due to some other issue, right?
Faulty valve block?
leak in central reservoir?
P-3722 pump is only a few days old
I’ve checked all of the pump and valve block fittings with soapy water…no leaks.
My Malfunction error MUST be due to some other issue, right?
Faulty valve block?
leak in central reservoir?
P-3722 pump is only a few days old
What really fractured my mind last evening as I was getting ready to install the new Arnott (European) valve block is I found that the airline coming out of the newly installed compressor had blown out, i.e. it wasn’t even connected and I don’t know for how long.
An Arnott technician just emailed me instructions on how to rectify this. On and on!!!
Tools such as the Autel MP808 interface with (supposedly) all modules on (supposedly) all makes and models.
But, yes, your Airmatic error is almost certainly "taking too long to refill reservoir", which your MBII was itching to tell you.
In case this is not clear to anyone else: There are two levels of trouble codes. One is the generic, usually prefixed by a P for Powertrain. These are the codes that trigger a Check Engine light. When you get a simple OBD reader, like a bluetooth dongle and Torque on your phone, and you ask it to check for Fault Codes, this is what it will report.
The deeper level is manufacturer-specific and module-specific diagnostic trouble codes. All codes start life as this level, and if they are considered serious, they are elevated to the Check Engine light system.
Airmatic codes will usually trigger a Malfunction message on the central display, but they will not trigger a Check Engine light.
You have to use a tool, that knows what the Airmatic system is, to go into the Airmatic system and ask it what is going on. In this case it would reply "Help, I'm running the compressor but the pressure in the reservoir is not rising."
Of note, a P-3722 costs a little over $360 from Rockauto and $750 from my local NAPA dealer!
I hope to button this project up this weekend and I’m praying my problem was caused by the noname valve block.
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To check for ordinary, age-related leaks: Press the suspension lift button on the dash. Wait for the suspension lifting procedure to complete.
Place jack stands under the end you wish to inspect, at a height close to but not touching the frame.
Spray soapy water on the air springs, paying particular attention to an area about three inches above the fold. Look for air bubbles, particularly fine foam, which indicates an early leak.
All seems to be working well now!
Thank you to all who helped me on this journey!!
I bought an Arnott valve block from Rockauto about a week ago when I started this project and they sent me the Chinese Arnott unit (3267, I think). I didn’t even know Arnott offered two valve blocks until I talked to one of their technical guys and he recommended I not use a 3276 and that I should use their European made 3823 unit. Why in the heck they sell a Chinese block that they don’t even recommend I’ll never know. Both blocks are about the same price, too!
At any rate there are AT LEAST three valve blocks available for a GL450, i.e. the noname one you buy on Amazon for well under $100 like was on my car when I bought it that caused my problems, the Chinese Arnott one even they tell you not to use for about $250 and the European Arnott unit for about $250.
So, I’m returning the unused Chinese Arnott unit to Rockauto. Sorry to be so wordy!
I bought an Arnott valve block from Rockauto about a week ago when I started this project and they sent me the Chinese Arnott unit (3267, I think). I didn’t even know Arnott offered two valve blocks until I talked to one of their technical guys and he recommended I not use a 3276 and that I should use their European made 3823 unit. Why in the heck they sell a Chinese block that they don’t even recommend I’ll never know. Both blocks are about the same price, too!
At any rate there are AT LEAST three valve blocks available for a GL450, i.e. the noname one you buy on Amazon for well under $100 like was on my car when I bought it that caused my problems, the Chinese Arnott one even they tell you not to use for about $250 and the European Arnott unit for about $250.
So, I’m returning the unused Chinese Arnott unit to Rockauto. Sorry to be so wordy!
I bought an Arnott valve block from Rockauto about a week ago when I started this project and they sent me the Chinese Arnott unit (3267, I think). I didn’t even know Arnott offered two valve blocks until I talked to one of their technical guys and he recommended I not use a 3276 and that I should use their European made 3823 unit. Why in the heck they sell a Chinese block that they don’t even recommend I’ll never know. Both blocks are about the same price, too!
At any rate there are AT LEAST three valve blocks available for a GL450, i.e. the noname one you buy on Amazon for well under $100 like was on my car when I bought it that caused my problems, the Chinese Arnott one even they tell you not to use for about $250 and the European Arnott unit for about $250.
So, I’m returning the unused Chinese Arnott unit to Rockauto. Sorry to be so wordy!
By the way, if I recall correctly, you swapped the pump and then then noticed the pump supply line was not connected. Then you swapped the valve block (if I understand the above correctly). Did you test the system after reconnecting the supply line?
Now, to be fair, Arnott Chinesium is likely better than Amazon Chinesium, so your statement about what we insist is not incorrect. But if anyone does towing, we are clear that one should put Bilsteins in the back. Fronts, I'd probably go with Bilsteins also. AMK pumps. No one replaces the valve block, so that's almost a moot point.
Last edited by eric_in_sd; Feb 5, 2024 at 02:47 PM.
I decided the valve block was the problem and when I removed the block in my car and compared it to the two blocks I had just received from Arnott, both of which were well labeled and marked, I noticed that there were no identifying numbers, letters or anything else on the one I had removed from my car and that I suspected was faulty.
I’m assuming it is an Amazon, under $100, junk block.
I installed the European Arnott 3823 and will be returning the unused Arnott 3267 to Rockauto.
So far my car is performing well and I get no MALFUNCTION message. 🙏
I decided the valve block was the problem and when I removed the block in my car and compared it to the two blocks I had just received from Arnott, both of which were well labeled and marked, I noticed that there were no identifying numbers, letters or anything else on the one I had removed from my car and that I suspected was faulty.
I’m assuming it is an Amazon, under $100, junk block.
I installed the European Arnott 3823 and will be returning the unused Arnott 3267 to Rockauto.
So far my car is performing well and I get no MALFUNCTION message. 🙏
But concerning is that I still get the occasional strong burning plastic smell.
Also, to get the car to raise I have to hit the Airmatic button AND the button next to it ( uneven road?). I don’t think I had to do that before all of this!
But concerning is that I still get the occasional strong burning plastic smell.
Also, to get the car to raise I have to hit the Airmatic button AND the button next to it ( uneven road?). I don’t think I had to do that before all of this!






