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My old reliable left me stranded 500 miles from home for the first in many years. No fuel pressure! The suv will be delivered in a few days so I am trying to get up to speed .. read quite a few postings. My first question after reading one of Dundee’s pdf post about fuel pump removal ..164.1 states drop the tank while 164.8 should have access. With a Vin of 4JGBF86E88A335002 which 164 version should I have? Is the control module N118 also located by the tank or near the battery? All 4 fuses looked good and O relay was swapped before the tow truck took the beast. Appreciate any shared knowledge or direction. Thanks Bill
My old reliable left me stranded 500 miles from home for the first in many years. No fuel pressure! The suv will be delivered in a few days so I am trying to get up to speed .. read quite a few postings. My first question after reading one of Dundee’s pdf post about fuel pump removal ..164.1 states drop the tank while 164.8 should have access. With a Vin of 4JGBF86E88A335002 which 164 version should I have? Is the control module N118 also located by the tank or near the battery? All 4 fuses looked good and O relay was swapped before the tow truck took the beast. Appreciate any shared knowledge or direction. Thanks Bill
What do you mean "164.1 states" and "164.8"? This is the first I heard of MB changing to a closed-from-the-top system during the 164 production run.
In any event, in 2008 it seems likely you're in the clear.
It also does not take a great deal of surgery to remove the rear seat and lift the carpet to inspect.
I'd never heard of the 164.1 v 164.8 variation either, however I've looked up WIS using your VIN and it clearly states those models and that for 164.1, to remove the tank. Now, that seems like total overkill given the same document shows the hatch under the back seat which is consistent with with Eric's comment especially for the 2008 year which would be the M273 engine and not the M113 engine used in earlier (pre-2007) 164s, and to which the documentation refers.
Even though the instructions do say drop the tank, I'm not sure they're clear as to why. Dropping the tank is a major pain in the backside. If you need any further documents, let me know.
I just realized, the standard labor for changing the fuel pump involves dropping the tank. That would explain why my indy felt entitled to charge me $1100 for the repair.
It really isn't that hard. Work in a well ventilated area, and drain the tank first if possible.
Ok thanks for the help.. I just got the car dropped off today from transport . Under a little more investigation no power to Fuse 57 or 49 in the rear panel. I have not removed the rear seat yet just looking over fuses . We are talking about the rear passenger side (small single seat correct). thanks for all the help Bill
Ok doing some catch up reading and once I turn it over than there is voltage at fuse 57… so it’s looking like time to pull the seat.. and of course I have the heated seat option so more crap in the way!
I really would not remove the old pump until you have the new one ready, unless you have a good way to cap the tank or a well ventilated place you are storing the vehicle.
I bought the Lisle tool.I hate to have to break the ring or cut it… working with gas tank ?? This ring is really on this tank .
The car is outside and will keep the windows slightly down. So not too worried about venting
Took a long shot with 166,000 miles and replaced the Crank shaft sensor this morning before tearing into the tank . (actually got my son on top of the engine and replaced it from top) at 69 yrs old I don’t quite bend like that anymore lol. Well I have been wrestling with this ring for 30 minutes!!! I do not have a controller on this 2008 GL550… voltage there and pump motor way too high in ohms . So hopefully I can get this ring off
Last edited by vesiadog; Mar 16, 2024 at 05:35 PM.
Reason: wording
Now I'm worried. I have the Lisle tool, in anticipation of having to do my fuel pump (actually, fuel filter, but that requires taking out the pump also) and am wondering if mine will get stuck.
What was happening? Was the tool slipping off? Were you able to torque it with straight up and down force?
Note you probably ought to change the filter as well while you're in there. The check valve on mine has gone bad, about 40k miles after changing the pump, and I wish I'd had the filter done also while I was in there.
I hope you're using good parts, by the way. There are cheap pumps (and filters) out there, and for the work involved, I would only install OEM or Delphi.
IMO send the lisle tool back and order the full circle type . ebay has a few similiar for $39. Contacting only 2 ridges and the lisle tool opening is too big . Yes I was slipping off and if I have to torque the new one to 80 ft lbs.. I want the full circle one.
I try and buy MB parts… $185 for the pump.
I have been working and driving MB’s since the 70’s… my dad got me started he had a 1960 190 little blue tank! Never had to put a fuel pump in a tank before.
I can change my filter and pump on my SL500 in 30 minutes…
Eric is the filter on the same side ? or the other half of the tank? thanks Bill
Filter is on the driver side. It is easier to get to, except you have to remove the fuel pump to disconnect it.
I was kidding. To my knowledge it is normal right-hand threads. I have not done the work myself, but I imagine it would be well-known if the threads were backward.
You know the Lisle tool is adjustable, right?
80 ft-lbs is a lot of torque. The seal is made by the o-ring. I don't think you need anywhere near that much torque. MB just wants to avoid liability.
First it sits too high off the ring. Two tabs are just not enough . Way better off getting the circle one . I watched more videos after I bought the Lisle tool and everyone video you can see the struggle with slipping off.
OK proper tool for the job. FORGET the Universal slide bar types… if that removed the ring.. you didn’t need it. The full circle CTA 1042 is the real deal.. slightly push it on with the help of a small rubber mallet … first try turned it with ease with a long breaker bar. Tool is the real deal very heavy built and worth the $62.
OK proper tool for the job. FORGET the Universal slide bar types… if that removed the ring.. you didn’t need it. The full circle CTA 1042 is the real deal.. slightly push it on with the help of a small rubber mallet … first try turned it with ease with a long breaker bar. Tool is the real deal very heavy built and worth the $62.
It is a nice testimonial, but people do successfully use the Lisle. Perhaps it is best with an impact wrench so you can push down while it hammers open.
Good for you getting it open.
The Lisle is a universal tool, so would find application elsewhere should the need arise.
After using both (thank goodness for Returns to Amazon)…. Universal 2 pt vs complete circle… night and day. Wasted almost an hour with the Lisle tool. We have a pretty big shop because my son has a large R129 parts/refurb business.
So for anyone reading and following IMO 100% behind the CTA 1042 circle tool. Very tight fit with great welds and build.
It is a nice testimonial, but people do successfully use the Lisle. Perhaps it is best with an impact wrench so you can push down while it hammers open.
Good for you getting it open.
The Lisle is a universal tool, so would find application elsewhere should the need arise.
Just a quick note about the Lisle tool.. It states right on the tool NOT FOR IMPACT USE. With the two wing nuts I would never put an impact to use on this tool. The CTA tool would definitely use an impact if I needed to. Small breaker bar is all I needed. thanks again
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