Gl 350 airmatic uneven at rear
#1
Gl 350 airmatic uneven at rear
Hello! My 2011 Gl 350 seems to be too high on the right rear air suspension. Have checked the sensors and link arms to the sensors, these look ok. Suspension and airbags are new, so no leaks. I don't know what else to try, any suggestions? Attaches a picture of the data on the sensors.
#2
What does "look OK" mean? That sounds like you only glanced at them. Pop the arms off, inspect CLOSELY, clean and grease the ***** AND sockets and reattach. See if that helps.
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BlackML550 (03-12-2024)
#3
by ok I mean that they have movement, and didn't seem to be stuck (I could of course have mentioned that right away). Got it, then I'll try it 😊👍 Do you know, or does anyone know, what the correct height should be on these cars? And with the numbers in the pictures I posted, One sensor gives a large deviation in the values than the rest, what could that mean?
#4
Sometimes they don't move as "much" as they should when they get dirty/sticky.
I've never done this... but I think would be a good test... Remove the connecting arm and manually move the sensor to full up, full down, and estimate the middle. Look at the numbers in your readout as you do that. Compare the numbers to the other corners (or, realistically, you may only need to compare to one corner that is "good"). This should at least tell you if the sensor is reading properly across the full range of motion. Should be pretty much the same as testing a standard fuel sender - or at least that's where my mind is at on it.
I'll get some numbers (like you posted) from my car to compare...
I've never done this... but I think would be a good test... Remove the connecting arm and manually move the sensor to full up, full down, and estimate the middle. Look at the numbers in your readout as you do that. Compare the numbers to the other corners (or, realistically, you may only need to compare to one corner that is "good"). This should at least tell you if the sensor is reading properly across the full range of motion. Should be pretty much the same as testing a standard fuel sender - or at least that's where my mind is at on it.
I'll get some numbers (like you posted) from my car to compare...
#5
Sometimes they don't move as "much" as they should when they get dirty/sticky.
I've never done this... but I think would be a good test... Remove the connecting arm and manually move the sensor to full up, full down, and estimate the middle. Look at the numbers in your readout as you do that. Compare the numbers to the other corners (or, realistically, you may only need to compare to one corner that is "good"). This should at least tell you if the sensor is reading properly across the full range of motion. Should be pretty much the same as testing a standard fuel sender - or at least that's where my mind is at on it.
I'll get some numbers (like you posted) from my car to compare...
I've never done this... but I think would be a good test... Remove the connecting arm and manually move the sensor to full up, full down, and estimate the middle. Look at the numbers in your readout as you do that. Compare the numbers to the other corners (or, realistically, you may only need to compare to one corner that is "good"). This should at least tell you if the sensor is reading properly across the full range of motion. Should be pretty much the same as testing a standard fuel sender - or at least that's where my mind is at on it.
I'll get some numbers (like you posted) from my car to compare...
#7
Measure height from each wheel arch to the bottom of the rim on each corner to determine actual level.
These numbers are all relative to calibration and can't be taken at face value.
If it sits level, and your tool supports it then do an auto cal and report back with numbers.
But really, they don't matter much if the car is level.
You're also looking for smooth voltage fluctuations when the car is rocked side to side, that will tell you that the level sensors are reporting.
I wouldn't grease them as that retains grit and accelerates wear.
These numbers are all relative to calibration and can't be taken at face value.
If it sits level, and your tool supports it then do an auto cal and report back with numbers.
But really, they don't matter much if the car is level.
You're also looking for smooth voltage fluctuations when the car is rocked side to side, that will tell you that the level sensors are reporting.
I wouldn't grease them as that retains grit and accelerates wear.
The following 2 users liked this post by Max Blast:
BlackML550 (03-12-2024),
Havrahane (03-12-2024)
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#8
no error codes 🤷♂️ can someone explain these values? know that the previous owner changed the shock absorbers and airbags on the car, could the airmatic need a calibration?
#9
Measure height from each wheel arch to the bottom of the rim on each corner to determine actual level.
These numbers are all relative to calibration and can't be taken at face value.
If it sits level, and your tool supports it then do an auto cal and report back with numbers.
But really, they don't matter much if the car is level.
You're also looking for smooth voltage fluctuations when the car is rocked side to side, that will tell you that the level sensors are reporting.
I wouldn't grease them as that retains grit and accelerates wear.
These numbers are all relative to calibration and can't be taken at face value.
If it sits level, and your tool supports it then do an auto cal and report back with numbers.
But really, they don't matter much if the car is level.
You're also looking for smooth voltage fluctuations when the car is rocked side to side, that will tell you that the level sensors are reporting.
I wouldn't grease them as that retains grit and accelerates wear.
it is not completely level, easy to see that the right rear side is higher than the left side, have measured and it varies a little, but actually much like 5 cm higher. This looks very strange😅 my tool does not support auto calibration. but would like to have it done... maybe a trip to the workshop is needed.
#10
When you say "No error codes", do you mean you asked Airmatic for DTCs and it came back negative? Or do you mean there are no OBD codes?
It does not make sense that you observe one corner is high, Airmatic reports that same corner is high, and yet Airmatic neither does anything about it nor reports an error.
It looks like something in Airmatic, such as your valve block, has failed and the system is refusing to do anything, not wanting to risk dropping the suspension and leaving the vehicle undriveable.
It does not make sense that you observe one corner is high, Airmatic reports that same corner is high, and yet Airmatic neither does anything about it nor reports an error.
It looks like something in Airmatic, such as your valve block, has failed and the system is refusing to do anything, not wanting to risk dropping the suspension and leaving the vehicle undriveable.
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BlackML550 (03-12-2024)
#11
In theory, I would agree with you. But my recommendation comes from having dry joints corrode and freeze up and cause issues. For about 4 or 5 years, now, I've been greasing them and have not had that issue.
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BlackML550 (03-12-2024)
#13
When you say "No error codes", do you mean you asked Airmatic for DTCs and it came back negative? Or do you mean there are no OBD codes?
It does not make sense that you observe one corner is high, Airmatic reports that same corner is high, and yet Airmatic neither does anything about it nor reports an error.
It looks like something in Airmatic, such as your valve block, has failed and the system is refusing to do anything, not wanting to risk dropping the suspension and leaving the vehicle undriveable.
It does not make sense that you observe one corner is high, Airmatic reports that same corner is high, and yet Airmatic neither does anything about it nor reports an error.
It looks like something in Airmatic, such as your valve block, has failed and the system is refusing to do anything, not wanting to risk dropping the suspension and leaving the vehicle undriveable.
#14
Thank you very much!😃 I will cross check your numbers with mine😊👍 When it comes to the level sensors and link arms, today I have dismantled them all, cleaned, lubricated and reassembled. Nice movement by all. I think it actually became more even in height now. At a quick measurement before I had to pick up the children from school, there was only a deviation of 0.5 cm at the back on the right side 🤩
#15
Good - maybe that's all you needed. As a side note, always check the measurements after driving forward, at least for a short distance. It seems like reversing can load things up a bit and maybe make the suspension slightly off. I'm not sure about "always" but I have noticed that from time to time.
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Havrahane (03-12-2024)
#16
I confess I do not know what to make of the voltage and height readings. I cannot understand why the height would be out of range and the system would not be trying to do something about it.
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alx (05-17-2024)
#18
I don't quite get the correlation, either. To be honest, I never looked at the relationship between volts and height very closely before. My assumption had been that the level sensor was a potentiometer and the measured V was then converted, via a simple algorithm, to height. But the V and H don't seem to correlate - not even with my numbers.
#19
Very pleased with such a good response and help I have received here from you guys! Thank you very much! I have learned and not least it looks like I found out why the car was not in level.
#20
I don't quite get the correlation, either. To be honest, I never looked at the relationship between volts and height very closely before. My assumption had been that the level sensor was a potentiometer and the measured V was then converted, via a simple algorithm, to height. But the V and H don't seem to correlate - not even with my numbers.
I keep saying, even with a good diagnostic tool, it is like calling up a party for directions and getting a drunk chick on the phone.
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Havrahane (03-15-2024)
#23
The following users liked this post:
Havrahane (03-16-2024)