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I had a late night return from a work trip where I pulled into my usual gas station with 2 gallons left and reserve light on. Filled the tank full of 87 and proceeded home.
2 miles later I have a soft power loss and the car just coasts to a stop and crank no start after that.
I got towed Home, and read codes - the only active and stored ones were both catalytic converters not meeting threshold. No misfires, no fuel pressure no nothing other codes.
When I try to try to test the fuel pump under ME 9.7 and the test one of the pre-Reqs is the engine running so how do I test the fuel pump?
Other clues I have is that there’s no pressure released in the fuel rail after cranking
I do not hear an audible anything with the fuel pump actuated under ME 9.7 actuations (but remember the pre-req for this is an engine temperature above 67 and the engine running)
so working off the theory that I got bad gas that shut off the fuel pressure sensor or if there is in fact, a fuel quality sensor that could trip the pump off-line… Either way I’ve only been able to suck out the right passenger saddlebag gas and I will need to remove the pump lid to get at the driver side saddlebag to get those additional 50 L out.
first sample had the tiniest bit of water in it and everything else came out pretty clean. I’ve ran it through my mower and my truck with no adverse effects.
sample 1
the rest of them fine
We’ll see what the 50 L coming out of the driver’s side or what’s in the filter looks like but… That’s all I got from now just waiting on parts from auto house. I’ve got MB original relay, pump and filter unit on the way just in case.
Last edited by Max Blast; Apr 15, 2024 at 10:14 PM.
It's the fuel pump. The term "soft loss of power" nails it. Mine felt exactly like that when my fuel pump went boink.
You can bypass the relay to force activation of the pump. That's what I did to drain the fuel tank. Pressing the Schraeder valve on the fuel rail will result in a spray of fuel if there's pressure.
Water in the gas would cause misfire errors, as the beads of water would hit individual injectors..
What year GL? Do you have the Fuel pump control module.
My 2008 did not have a control module. I am sure you read my stuff… I bought the round removal tool for the ring… once you get the top inspection cover off it’s not a bad job.
This is an 07, and wis is very sparse in troubleshooting to determine if it is an actual pump failure. The absence of pressure at the rail indicates so, but there could be other factors telling the pump to not provide pressure (Control module, pressure sensors, fuel quality sensor???).
I’ve got the generic Amazon tool and pump arriving tomorrow.
Application at 12 V resulted in silence, with a wrap on the pump it started running again. So I’ll consider that one done.
the gas I’m extracting is as pure as the driven snow, and I’m impressed with how clean the tank and components are. Well, of course, they’re bathed in solvent… I have introduced more dirt to the tank system by opening it up, then was previously present, but we will see a new pump and filter this Friday.
And also do not use the cheapo two prong Amazon pump lock ring extractor tool it is only good for destroying the lock ring.
Application at 12 V resulted in silence, with a wrap on the pump it started running again. So I’ll consider that one done.
the gas I’m extracting is as pure as the driven snow, and I’m impressed with how clean the tank and components are. Well, of course, they’re bathed in solvent… I have introduced more dirt to the tank system by opening it up, then was previously present, but we will see a new pump and filter this Friday.
And also do not use the cheapo two prong Amazon pump lock ring extractor tool it is only good for destroying the lock ring.
I tried very hard to tell everyone don’t waste time or money on the two prong pos. The full circle is so simple and works perfect.
You can buy knockoffs on ebay for $33 also.
Where are you buying your pump from ?
You know what is ironic is that is how my pump quit… we were hiking and I had to climb a 30 degree gravel bumpy as road I mean really bumpy .. when I hit the hard pave the GL quit within 1/4 mile…500 miles from home!!!!
I tried very hard to tell everyone don’t waste time or money on the two prong pos. The full circle is so simple and works perfect.
You can buy knockoffs on ebay for $33 also.
Where are you buying your pump from ?
I got a Delphi pump and filter unit from the jungle website, but then I saw auto house had a Ginuwine Mercedes on sale both pump and filter so I jumped on that.
Saving 300 bucks by going with auto house.
and I did buy that circular tooth tool from FCP, I’ll check that round one out on the jungle website as well, but none show up as compatible
You know what is ironic is that is how my pump quit… we were hiking and I had to climb a 30 degree gravel bumpy as road I mean really bumpy .. when I hit the hard pave the GL quit within 1/4 mile…500 miles from home!!!!
I was 5 miles from home… And I know this thing is put together so well that wrapping on the fuel pump isn’t really an option until you start removing back seats and carpets and what not…
I got a Delphi pump and filter unit from the jungle website, but then I saw auto house had a Ginuwine Mercedes on sale both pump and filter so I jumped on that.
Saving 300 bucks by going with auto house.
and I did buy that circular tooth tool from FCP, I’ll check that round one out on the jungle website as well, but none show up as compatible
I have a great Mercedes dealer in PA… just found him this month and he is really beating everyone on pricing .. I dont want to advertise them online and swamped them… I paid $158 for a Mercedes 164-470-19-94 pump and $66 for the locking rim mercedes also. If you are shopping again send me a PM ok. thanks Bill
I bought the circular tool and the 2 point lisle tool both from Amazon .. at least with Amazon you can send them back quickly … with all the MB’s we have I just put the circular tool on the shelf
Last edited by vesiadog; Apr 17, 2024 at 08:30 PM.
Reason: wording
Application at 12 V resulted in silence, with a wrap on the pump it started running again. So I’ll consider that one done.
the gas I’m extracting is as pure as the driven snow, and I’m impressed with how clean the tank and components are. Well, of course, they’re bathed in solvent… I have introduced more dirt to the tank system by opening it up, then was previously present, but we will see a new pump and filter this Friday.
And also do not use the cheapo two prong Amazon pump lock ring extractor tool it is only good for destroying the lock ring.
Good for you changing the filter as well while you're in there. My parts are still sitting on the shelf. The check valve still is intermittent.
I will be most interested to see if I can remove the locking rings with the two prong tool
yes, but you will likely destroy the ring in the process. Uro replacements are 38 bucks on the jungle website so I went ahead and ordered two.
The gasket is indistinguishable from the OEM one I pulled out, still soft and pliable 17 years later..
The pumps are all around 150-170 for Delphi/MB branded units regardless of where.
Huge difference in Delphi/MB filter units, 300 and change on the jungle website. 500 at Napa, 500 at AutoZone but 140 at auto house AZ.
oh yeah, that two-point tools going back as is everything that I bought at a premium from it.
Ooh that's a good point. I didn't think about reinstalling the lock ring. I'm just a little puzzled that the videos etc I'd seen all show people using the two prong tool, and now you and Mr. Salty are making a clear case for the dedicated tool.
Your Ebay (?) ring tool looks better, with its hex drive at the top. But yours looks different (zinc vs. gold); which one did you get that you confirmed works?
Ooh that's a good point. I didn't think about reinstalling the lock ring. I'm just a little puzzled that the videos etc I'd seen all show people using the two prong tool, and now you and Mr. Salty are making a clear case for the dedicated tool.
I have been called a lot of names in 69 yrs but never Mr Salty 😂!
What do you think of all that orange stuff in my cooling system ? I am really puzzled!
Your Ebay (?) ring tool looks better, with its hex drive at the top. But yours looks different (zinc vs. gold); which one did you get that you confirmed works?
I bought mine from Amazon CTA $66 … it is a very tight fit and my rings were Mercedes OEM. Bill
Last edited by vesiadog; Apr 17, 2024 at 11:01 PM.
Reason: wording
I ended up swapping both pump and filter with MB branded Delphi units, and using one new URO ring assembly while reusing one of the factory ones. The gaskets were softer than the supplied Uro one so I reused one. I tightened down the covers with the cta tool which is now mine to keep.
the worst part of the job was really lifting the rear bench out and in, pretty straightforward really to get at the pump. Just make sure you mark where each torx head screw goes be use I was left with two that did not fit in the last two holes I had to cover!
also, must reset the SRS codes for the rear seat airbags. And: these cars are so well put together.
and bonus - since it sat with no power for a while all adaptations have cleared and I dare say that I no longer have that driveline clunk I was attributing to a worn transfer case (two speed EORP) chain - it’s either a bad adaptation leading to clunk on the 2nd gear takeoff or I now have a smooth adaptation covering up a slack chain…but I’m inclined to believe it was all an adaptive thing, and annoying as hell.
I ended up swapping both pump and filter with MB branded Delphi units, and using one new URO ring assembly while reusing one of the factory ones. The gaskets were softer than the supplied Uro one so I reused one. I tightened down the covers with the cta tool which is now mine to keep.
the worst part of the job was really lifting the rear bench out and in, pretty straightforward really to get at the pump. Just make sure you mark where each torx head screw goes be use I was left with two that did not fit in the last two holes I had to cover!
also, must reset the SRS codes for the rear seat airbags. And: these cars are so well put together.
and bonus - since it sat with no power for a while all adaptations have cleared and I dare say that I no longer have that driveline clunk I was attributing to a worn transfer case (two speed EORP) chain - it’s either a bad adaptation leading to clunk on the 2nd gear takeoff or I now have a smooth adaptation covering up a slack chain…but I’m inclined to believe it was all an adaptive thing, and annoying as hell.
After tearing apart my back seat I had an extra small cover??? I agree about carrying the back seat.. I got my son to help me put it back in. What did you use to seal the back cover plate? I bought some urethane caulking for body panels? I would say the second hardest job was digging out the cover plate.
Great writeup !!
I ended up swapping both pump and filter with MB branded Delphi units, and using one new URO ring assembly while reusing one of the factory ones. The gaskets were softer than the supplied Uro one so I reused one. I tightened down the covers with the cta tool which is now mine to keep.
the worst part of the job was really lifting the rear bench out and in, pretty straightforward really to get at the pump. Just make sure you mark where each torx head screw goes be use I was left with two that did not fit in the last two holes I had to cover!
also, must reset the SRS codes for the rear seat airbags. And: these cars are so well put together.
and bonus - since it sat with no power for a while all adaptations have cleared and I dare say that I no longer have that driveline clunk I was attributing to a worn transfer case (two speed EORP) chain - it’s either a bad adaptation leading to clunk on the 2nd gear takeoff or I now have a smooth adaptation covering up a slack chain…but I’m inclined to believe it was all an adaptive thing, and annoying as hell.
Good writeup, thanks.
Why did you need to replace a ring assembly? Did you damage it on removal?
Why did you need to replace a ring assembly? Did you damage it on removal?
I destroyed one ring assembly with the cheapo two prong tool from the jungle website. Ended up chiseling it out just to get the pump out to verify it was done.
I used the gasket maker aka gorilla snot to re-create the sealing lid over the tank, it now smells while it is curing but no other ill effects. That OEM sealant was tough but came off with a heat gun and a razor.
I destroyed one ring assembly with the cheapo two prong tool from the jungle website. Ended up chiseling it out just to get the pump out to verify it was done.
I used the gasket maker aka gorilla snot to re-create the sealing lid over the tank, it now smells while it is curing but no other ill effects. That OEM sealant was tough but came off with a heat gun and a razor.
Okay, thanks. I ordered this one from ebay. $33bux.
Now I have to hurry up and do the r&r so I test the tool. I'll be honest, I wasn't thrilled with $66 for a one-time use tool, but half that ain't bad. Yours is galvanized; I hope they're the same dimensions etc.
I still wonder if the two prong tool wouldn't work well with an impact wrench, anything to ensure the vertical force is pure vertical, and the torque isn't twisting the tool sideways, like how you basically have to use a two handle tool to drive a tap.
As far as I know, the caulk does nothing besides seal the cabin from the outside world, so you could use just about anything. Painter's caulk (latex) is cheap.
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