GL Class (X164) 2007-2012: GL320CDI, GL420CDI, GL450, GL550

2011 GL350 Sat for a Year

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Old Apr 6, 2026 | 03:25 PM
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2011 GL350
2011 GL350 Sat for a Year

(Posted in another forum as well)

I recently replaced the turbo on my 2011 GL350. It failed in December 2024, and has sat in my driveway since then. Yesterday, after replacing the turbo and the batteries (both main and aux), we followed the recommended steps for starting the car after being idle for so many months, but nothing happened. I get power to all electrical components (except airmatic suspension, which is still low), but the engine won't crank. I would really love to get this car running again. What could be the main culprit causing it not to crank? Attached is my scan from the Topdon scanner.
Things we tried:
  • Jumping the starter. It turned over when we did that.
  • Trickle charge the battery
  • removed fuses in question to see where the drain was. Nothing.
Any insight would be greatly appreciated. Have a hard deadline to get this thing back on the road of 4/27.

Attached Files
File Type: pdf
Inspection Report.pdf (179.5 KB, 48 views)
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Old Apr 6, 2026 | 05:57 PM
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Someone else just had this same issue. Change the main battery, and the aux battery as well while you're in there. You've ruined the main battery by not leaving it on a maintainer.
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Old Apr 7, 2026 | 10:00 AM
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Not the cast dispersions on your work, but did you fire it up after you replaced the turbo?
Did it fire then?

if so, it’s 100% dead main battery.
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Old Apr 8, 2026 | 09:42 AM
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He replaced both batteries already.

one of the errors is Starter Short to ground…. I’d start with that.

Last edited by Sallad; Apr 8, 2026 at 09:44 AM.
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Old Apr 8, 2026 | 06:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Sallad
He replaced both batteries already.

one of the errors is Starter Short to ground…. I’d start with that.
That would explain the burnt battery cable.
there’s two threads going on this car and we should probably combine them.



Last edited by Max Blast; Apr 8, 2026 at 06:52 PM.
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Old Apr 13, 2026 | 08:30 PM
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Update on this--I think I'm close

So, I've been tracing wires for a week or so now. Here's what I've done:
Perfect. Let's do this systematically. Here's exactly what to measure:
  1. Confirmed Battery Voltage Is Good and reaching the engine bay using a multimeter (tested both charging ports in the engine bay)
  2. Confirmed power is reaching the fuse box in the engine bay (12.5V at the input on the fuse box)
  3. Tested each of the fuses in the box using the multimeter. All fuses functional.
  4. The two orange maxi-fuses were also tested for flow, and both passed.
  5. BUT, when I reinstalled them and tested them for output (multimeter to ground and one to the internal tip of the fuse while installed), one of them gave me 0.00. Which, accorinding to what I'm reading, is telling me a fusible link or main feed wire that supplies the left maxi fuse socket that has either:
    1. A blown fusible link upstream of it
    2. A broken/disconnected wire
    3. A corroded main connection
So that is this week's task. I found a video where they guy took apart the fuses under the positive charging terminal and found the issue there. That's the next stop.
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Old Apr 15, 2026 | 09:11 AM
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Originally Posted by pjhiggins
BUT, when I reinstalled them and tested them for output (multimeter to ground and one to the internal tip of the fuse while installed), one of them gave me 0.00
Are you saying you had 0 (zero) Ohms?? (This would mean is a short to ground)

or was the meter reading OL?? (Overload or Open Circuit) as in a broken wire or fuse?
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Old Apr 28, 2026 | 12:42 PM
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From: New Jersey, USA
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Fuse Box

Update: I've reduced the Fault Codes from 84 to 14.

Still getting the ones related to the Fuse box and the short to starter.

Ordered a new fuse box and a new starter. Going to install the fuse box first and see what I get, then the starter if it still gives me issues.



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