Oil change DIY
08-13-2014, 12:41 AM
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2001 BMW M Coupe, 2014 MB GL350, 2006 BMW 325i
Oil change DIY
Hello, my first post here.
I have a 2014 GL350 with almost 10k miles. I like doing my own maintenance stuff. I've tried searching for some info re 10k Svc for X166 but didn't find much. Have few questions:
1. Oil filter is different for X164 vs X166, correct?
2. Where's the best Internet place to buy MB parts or equivalent? I've found few places with Mahle, Mann, and even Fram (used to buy them from Autozone for my old MDX, but for MB??), but not sure what most people use for MB.
3. Does anyone prefer a specific Mobil 1 synthetic? There r multiple types. I've always used Mobil 1 synthetic in all my cars.
4. DEF refill: should I wait till the light comes on or just do it at 10k? Found some at eBay for something around $75 (w shipping) for 2 gallons but again, would appreciate recs on good places to buy from.
Thx in advance. I've worked on a lot BMWs before so know good places to buy from (like Turner, Bavarian auto, etc) but this is my first MB.
I have a 2014 GL350 with almost 10k miles. I like doing my own maintenance stuff. I've tried searching for some info re 10k Svc for X166 but didn't find much. Have few questions:
1. Oil filter is different for X164 vs X166, correct?
2. Where's the best Internet place to buy MB parts or equivalent? I've found few places with Mahle, Mann, and even Fram (used to buy them from Autozone for my old MDX, but for MB??), but not sure what most people use for MB.
3. Does anyone prefer a specific Mobil 1 synthetic? There r multiple types. I've always used Mobil 1 synthetic in all my cars.
4. DEF refill: should I wait till the light comes on or just do it at 10k? Found some at eBay for something around $75 (w shipping) for 2 gallons but again, would appreciate recs on good places to buy from.
Thx in advance. I've worked on a lot BMWs before so know good places to buy from (like Turner, Bavarian auto, etc) but this is my first MB.
08-13-2014, 09:07 AM
#2
MBWorld Fanatic!
#1. Dealer's parts department can answer that.
#3. Deisel engine requires specific Mobil 1 oil. You can look at manual to see the type you need to buy.
#4. Add it at 10K miles. You can buy it in Wallmart for about $15.
http://www.walmart.com/ip/BLUEDEF-Di...5-gal/16933407
#3. Deisel engine requires specific Mobil 1 oil. You can look at manual to see the type you need to buy.
#4. Add it at 10K miles. You can buy it in Wallmart for about $15.
http://www.walmart.com/ip/BLUEDEF-Di...5-gal/16933407
Last edited by aeggroup; 08-13-2014 at 09:22 AM.
08-14-2014, 10:24 PM
#3
MBWorld Fanatic!
Filter - best to check with dealer parts dept by your VIN# - frankly there are different GL350 oil filters depending on VIN
Oil - Mobil 1 ESP Formula M 5W-40 is most "common" for your GL350 - and is Mercedes spec. Your GL has a factory "mix" oil designed for break in and best to run out to close to 10K before change - you do not have a problem with that - some 3K/5K old school owner's sometimes scoff a bit at that.
DEF - DIY DEF is best done at 10K - quite easy to do, some buy smaller MB bottle and cut off bottom for funnel, other use spout on larger container to fill. NOTE: do not keep partial DEF container in unheated garage thru the winter - some owners have done this and unwittingly on Spring top off's then added contaminated/somewhat-spoiled DEF to their tank - happens more on commercial side like with Sprinter but I have seen happen on DIY DEF for BlueTech SUV's
I might suggest DIY DEF - then have dealer quote A service - since that A service on check in with VIN MB system may recommend other system updates on electronic controls like engine, tranny, clinate control, etc.. this updates may be internally listed for your VIN# - short of a campaign where you would be notified thru Owner's Online or by snail mail.. updates out there are ALWAYS good to have done
Oil - Mobil 1 ESP Formula M 5W-40 is most "common" for your GL350 - and is Mercedes spec. Your GL has a factory "mix" oil designed for break in and best to run out to close to 10K before change - you do not have a problem with that - some 3K/5K old school owner's sometimes scoff a bit at that.
DEF - DIY DEF is best done at 10K - quite easy to do, some buy smaller MB bottle and cut off bottom for funnel, other use spout on larger container to fill. NOTE: do not keep partial DEF container in unheated garage thru the winter - some owners have done this and unwittingly on Spring top off's then added contaminated/somewhat-spoiled DEF to their tank - happens more on commercial side like with Sprinter but I have seen happen on DIY DEF for BlueTech SUV's
I might suggest DIY DEF - then have dealer quote A service - since that A service on check in with VIN MB system may recommend other system updates on electronic controls like engine, tranny, clinate control, etc.. this updates may be internally listed for your VIN# - short of a campaign where you would be notified thru Owner's Online or by snail mail.. updates out there are ALWAYS good to have done
08-17-2014, 08:52 PM
#5
I completed an oil change on my MB-GL not long ago and it is fairly simple. Be sure the oil you get meets Mercedes spec, Amazon sells it at a fairly reasonable price. I'd recommend a Mann filter for the oil, also sold by Amazon, #HU821. This is the same as Mercedes uses. DEF fluid is easy, it is sold in 2.5 gallon containers in numerous stores and these have a nice pour spout which fits the Mercedes DEF opening well. If you are by a good truck stop, you can also get it at dispenser pump that should make it easy to fill. If you need any further info, I'm planning on doing a DIY writeup on the oil change the next time I change oil, and I can send you info on this.
08-18-2014, 01:34 PM
#7
Outline, oil change MN-GL 350
Here is a quick outline on changing the oil if I don't get it out on time.
1 Put the car on ramps (I recommend changing the oil when it is warm to hot after a run) and block the rear wheels.
2. Remove the 8 8mm hex head screws holding the plastic engine pan underneath engine the and remove this pan.
3. Locate the engine drain plug (the pan is a black pan that extends down below the driver) The drain plug is a 13 mm hex head plug. Drain plug threads are 12 x 1.5 mm. Remove the drain plug and drain the oil into suitable container.
4. Remove the engine cover by pulling upwards, first at the front, and then at the rear.
5. Unscrew the oil filter cover/filter holder. I recommend using the wrench Amazon sells for this. Remove the old oil filter and install a new one (messy--use gloves). Replace the old O ring with the new one that comes with the
filter. Tighten the oil filter cover to 25 NM as recommended on it. Filter is a Mann HU-821. You may want to use a turkey baster or a suction tool to remove the old oil left in the filter housing.
After I wrote this, I noticed that fabbrisd1, who is one of the most knowledgeable contributors, wrote that different VIN GL 350 diesels use different oil filters. So, it would be a good idea to get your first oil filter from the dealer and after that, get them from a less expensive source
6. Replace the drain plug and torque it to 25 NM.
7. Add the new oil that meets MB spec 229.51. After adding the correct amount start the engine, let it idle and check for leaks and check to verify the correct amount of oil is added. Oil quantity is 8.45 quarts (8 qts 7 oz)
8. If all looks good, replace the engine cover and the engine pan cover and you are all done.
I prefer to drain it from the pan, despite the vacuum pump advocates. Information from Sprinter owners indicate the vacuum pump can easily leave 1-2 quarts of old oil in the engine.
1 Put the car on ramps (I recommend changing the oil when it is warm to hot after a run) and block the rear wheels.
2. Remove the 8 8mm hex head screws holding the plastic engine pan underneath engine the and remove this pan.
3. Locate the engine drain plug (the pan is a black pan that extends down below the driver) The drain plug is a 13 mm hex head plug. Drain plug threads are 12 x 1.5 mm. Remove the drain plug and drain the oil into suitable container.
4. Remove the engine cover by pulling upwards, first at the front, and then at the rear.
5. Unscrew the oil filter cover/filter holder. I recommend using the wrench Amazon sells for this. Remove the old oil filter and install a new one (messy--use gloves). Replace the old O ring with the new one that comes with the
filter. Tighten the oil filter cover to 25 NM as recommended on it. Filter is a Mann HU-821. You may want to use a turkey baster or a suction tool to remove the old oil left in the filter housing.
After I wrote this, I noticed that fabbrisd1, who is one of the most knowledgeable contributors, wrote that different VIN GL 350 diesels use different oil filters. So, it would be a good idea to get your first oil filter from the dealer and after that, get them from a less expensive source
6. Replace the drain plug and torque it to 25 NM.
7. Add the new oil that meets MB spec 229.51. After adding the correct amount start the engine, let it idle and check for leaks and check to verify the correct amount of oil is added. Oil quantity is 8.45 quarts (8 qts 7 oz)
8. If all looks good, replace the engine cover and the engine pan cover and you are all done.
I prefer to drain it from the pan, despite the vacuum pump advocates. Information from Sprinter owners indicate the vacuum pump can easily leave 1-2 quarts of old oil in the engine.
Last edited by Ed Wolcott; 08-19-2014 at 10:26 AM. Reason: add warning
The following 2 users liked this post by Ed Wolcott:
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08-29-2014, 12:30 PM
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BMW M5
Here is a quick outline on changing the oil if I don't get it out on time.
1 Put the car on ramps (I recommend changing the oil when it is warm to hot after a run) and block the rear wheels.
2. Remove the 8 8mm hex head screws holding the plastic engine pan underneath engine the and remove this pan.
3. Locate the engine drain plug (the pan is a black pan that extends down below the driver) The drain plug is a 13 mm hex head plug. Drain plug threads are 12 x 1.5 mm. Remove the drain plug and drain the oil into suitable container.
4. Remove the engine cover by pulling upwards, first at the front, and then at the rear.
5. Unscrew the oil filter cover/filter holder. I recommend using the wrench Amazon sells for this. Remove the old oil filter and install a new one (messy--use gloves). Replace the old O ring with the new one that comes with the
filter. Tighten the oil filter cover to 25 NM as recommended on it. Filter is a Mann HU-821. You may want to use a turkey baster or a suction tool to remove the old oil left in the filter housing.
After I wrote this, I noticed that fabbrisd1, who is one of the most knowledgeable contributors, wrote that different VIN GL 350 diesels use different oil filters. So, it would be a good idea to get your first oil filter from the dealer and after that, get them from a less expensive source
6. Replace the drain plug and torque it to 25 NM.
7. Add the new oil that meets MB spec 229.51. After adding the correct amount start the engine, let it idle and check for leaks and check to verify the correct amount of oil is added. Oil quantity is 8.45 quarts (8 qts 7 oz)
8. If all looks good, replace the engine cover and the engine pan cover and you are all done.
I prefer to drain it from the pan, despite the vacuum pump advocates. Information from Sprinter owners indicate the vacuum pump can easily leave 1-2 quarts of old oil in the engine.
1 Put the car on ramps (I recommend changing the oil when it is warm to hot after a run) and block the rear wheels.
2. Remove the 8 8mm hex head screws holding the plastic engine pan underneath engine the and remove this pan.
3. Locate the engine drain plug (the pan is a black pan that extends down below the driver) The drain plug is a 13 mm hex head plug. Drain plug threads are 12 x 1.5 mm. Remove the drain plug and drain the oil into suitable container.
4. Remove the engine cover by pulling upwards, first at the front, and then at the rear.
5. Unscrew the oil filter cover/filter holder. I recommend using the wrench Amazon sells for this. Remove the old oil filter and install a new one (messy--use gloves). Replace the old O ring with the new one that comes with the
filter. Tighten the oil filter cover to 25 NM as recommended on it. Filter is a Mann HU-821. You may want to use a turkey baster or a suction tool to remove the old oil left in the filter housing.
After I wrote this, I noticed that fabbrisd1, who is one of the most knowledgeable contributors, wrote that different VIN GL 350 diesels use different oil filters. So, it would be a good idea to get your first oil filter from the dealer and after that, get them from a less expensive source
6. Replace the drain plug and torque it to 25 NM.
7. Add the new oil that meets MB spec 229.51. After adding the correct amount start the engine, let it idle and check for leaks and check to verify the correct amount of oil is added. Oil quantity is 8.45 quarts (8 qts 7 oz)
8. If all looks good, replace the engine cover and the engine pan cover and you are all done.
I prefer to drain it from the pan, despite the vacuum pump advocates. Information from Sprinter owners indicate the vacuum pump can easily leave 1-2 quarts of old oil in the engine.
Drained from Pan too. Not a fan of the pumps.
Very simple and straight forward for any novice.
Wondering why there is not sticky page for DIY projects. I'm reading the fuel filter is a *****.
05-03-2015, 04:52 PM
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2001 BMW M Coupe, 2014 MB GL350, 2006 BMW 325i
Change in oil
So I'm nearing 20k on my 2013 GL350 and went to buy Mobil 1 ESP Formula M 5w-40 at Amazon...but it's been discontinued.
What are people using now? I read somewhere the replacement by Mobil is ESP X1 0w-30, but Mobil website also says ESP 5w-30 also meetsMB spec 229.51. Someone at a local shop told me Lubemoly makes 5w-40 for Diesel engines too. I'm confused. Guess I can call my MB dealer tomorrow but want to see what DIY peeps are using now. Thx!
What are people using now? I read somewhere the replacement by Mobil is ESP X1 0w-30, but Mobil website also says ESP 5w-30 also meetsMB spec 229.51. Someone at a local shop told me Lubemoly makes 5w-40 for Diesel engines too. I'm confused. Guess I can call my MB dealer tomorrow but want to see what DIY peeps are using now. Thx!
05-03-2015, 11:39 PM
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2001 BMW M Coupe, 2014 MB GL350, 2006 BMW 325i
Ok thanks for the reply. I live in a very hot climate tho (Dallas Tx)...any issues with lower weight viscocity? I know 30 is good enough for even Dallas but just wondering. Probably won't make different in the short term but plan on keeping this SUV for a while.
05-04-2015, 08:11 AM
#12
I felt as long as it met the 229.51 specification, it should work well. Synthetic oil is far more heat resistant than regular motor oil. To give a quick illustration of this, my son drove a car till the engine quit from overheating (the coolant was low, and the gage read normal). Luckily, it was filled with synthetic oil. The repair shop thought he would need a new engine, but thanks to synthetic, the engine was fine once it cooled down.
