Diesel
I doubt the Cashier at the Gas Station would know what is Bio-Diesel or how much Bio-Fuel is added in Diesel. If it says Highway Diesel I know its pure so look for Truck stop which says Highway Diesel...
Thanks
For example, up here in MN ALL diesel has a bio mix that varies by season, and yes, it's still considered ULSD.
And one thing that you want to be careful of is "cheap" truck stop diesel sold by certain outlets. Typically "branded" fuel (Chevron, Texaco, etc.) will have minimum standards for cetane, lubricity, and other additives that bottom tier generic "truck stop" fuel may or may not meet.
Your best bet will be a high volume station that sells name brand fuel or a quality truck stop.

Per the FTC any diesel pump that contains a bio mix must be labeled...so you will know what is being pumped, truck stop or service station.
And all diesel sold for on-road vehicles is considered "highway" compared to "off road" for commercial equipment or farm vehicles. It's essentially a tax issue not a fuel issue.
Last edited by cadetdrivr; May 9, 2016 at 09:35 AM.
I ran that tank almost dry and filled up with good truckstop fuel and all returned to normal.
Well last week I tried Royal Farms again and the same thing happened. Damn.
I will do the same agin to fix it.
So far no issues. Have driven up and down the east coast. Changed the fuel filter at 50K. If the diesel is an issue around your area, plan to change the filter often.
Here in Arizona, I almost never see biodiesel. But when I travel, I run into the problem all the time that fuel is biodiesel or not labeled. I avoid getting gas in both situations if it is possible but sometimes it isn't so I just pump whatever crap the station has and hope for the best. So far so good.
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That said - $.80 per gallon difference - in my area at the moment diesel is around/under $2 a gallon - $.80 under that would be too-damn-cheap..
$.80 a gallon savings - there would HAVE TO BE A REASON so dang cheap... and unless we're talking a Indian Reservation - I would be very/very suspect - why risk it ?
Keep the beat !
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That said - $.80 per gallon difference - in my area at the moment diesel is around/under $2 a gallon - $.80 under that would be too-damn-cheap..
$.80 a gallon savings - there would HAVE TO BE A REASON so dang cheap... and unless we're talking a Indian Reservation - I would be very/very suspect - why risk it ?
Keep the beat !
That said - $.80 per gallon difference - in my area at the moment diesel is around/under $2 a gallon - $.80 under that would be too-damn-cheap..
$.80 a gallon savings - there would HAVE TO BE A REASON so dang cheap... and unless we're talking a Indian Reservation - I would be very/very suspect - why risk it ?
Keep the beat !
https://www.gpo.gov/fdsys/pkg/CFR-20...roup-id655.pdf
The meat of it is:
(8) ‘‘20% Biomass-Based Diesel Blend/contains biomass-based diesel or biodiesel in quantities between 5 percent and 20 percent’’
(9) ‘‘B–100 Biodiesel/contains 100 percent biodiesel’’
(10) ‘‘100% Biomass-Based Diesel/contains 100 percent biomass-based diesel."
Last edited by Dog hauler; May 9, 2016 at 09:53 PM.
On the $.80 per gallon savings - sounds like that station is selling B20 - 20% biodiesel content - and frankly that's a no-no-no for any Euro diesel engine.
On the $.80 per gallon savings - sounds like that station is selling B20 - 20% biodiesel content - and frankly that's a no-no-no for any Euro diesel engine.
It would seem that bio is typically more expensive than pure dino juice and that would only be exacerbated by current oil prices, no?
Your risk rises greatly as the weather gets cold. High bio diesel content will start to gel as the temps drop.
Hmmm. Sounds simple. Why didn't I think of that?
Oh,yeah, I recall now. I'm traveling in a state where biodiesel is the rule, not the exception (Illinois, anyone?), and I need fuel. I drive to one name brand station...no pump label or worse yet, B20. So I drive to the next name brand station...no pump label or B20. Maybe repeat again. And by now I really, really need fuel. So I pay my money and take my chances. 50k miles with only occasional doses of mystery diesel or B5-20 when it couldn't be avoided and so far so good, thankfully.
But now that I know the much more simple plan, I'll just drive from station to station until I run out of fuel and sputter to a stop. Then I'll call Roadside Assistance who will bring a couple gallons of fuel, probably from one of the unlabeled or B20 pumps I passed up. Then I'll do it all some more until I traverse Illinois (or other like minded states) 2 gallons at a time.
Depending on the state and how lucky you are in finding #2, sometimes you're forced to play biodiesel roulette or knowingly put B5-20 in. And how come MB diesels are the only German motors that can't take up to B20? But that's for another discussion, I suppose.
Last edited by Dog hauler; May 10, 2016 at 07:31 PM.
If you're talking about B100 or thereabouts, you could be right. I don't know. But, the only biodiesel fuel relevant to passenger vehicles is B20 or less and the solution is to treat the fuel.
Fact check: http://biodiesel.org/using-biodiesel...-weather-guide
If it's not a labeled #2 pump, you could have warranty issues. You agreed.
B20 has a greater gelling issue vs straight #2, the colder it gets. The link you provided also agrees.
Both will gel of course, but there is a significant difference in temps where treated #2 will gel and where treated b20 will gel. Something like 20 degrees difference.
Best of luck.
Last edited by Mike450; May 11, 2016 at 03:14 PM.
. It was labeled #2. You do have to use your debit but that's okay with me.
The upshot: there are plenty of concerns* involving bio, but winter gelling is not high on the list.
YMMV.
Last edited by cadetdrivr; May 12, 2016 at 12:04 AM.
If it's not a labeled #2 pump, you could have warranty issues. You agreed.
B20 has a greater gelling issue vs straight #2, the colder it gets. The link you provided also agrees.
Both will gel of course, but there is a significant difference in temps where treated #2 will gel and where treated b20 will gel. Something like 20 degrees difference.
Best of luck.
Now - Europe has been way farther down that train than the US - and the major impetus behind recent improvement in diesel technologies - let's put that to the side.
Yes - technically B20 diesel in theory can provide 95% of the "boom-boom" of B2/B5 - unlike ethanol in gasoline which lowers fuel effectiveness dramatically.
However - the problems I have seen in B20 - and not seen in B2/B5 - is the nature/composition of the higher 20/bio-content - in other words there is a LOT of sh*t B20 especially as related to high-efficiency-Euro-diesels.
A Kubota tractor B20 - a Peterbuilt on B20 - yeh, "maybe" no problem - a Euro high perfromance passenger diesel engine - "probably" a problem if consistently using B20
Personally - if I lived in MN or IL with mandated/allowed B20 - and without clear pump labeling - Euro diesel would not be a good fit for me.
Not trying to sell anyone anything - and there are dedicated diesel enthusiasts in BOTH MN and IL - I am just sharing how I see it - and I have had friends and customers get caught up is sh*t B20...
Keep the beat !
The upshot: there are plenty of concerns* involving bio, but winter gelling is not high on the list.
YMMV.
Agree, which is why I said it's a risk you take when you use a cheap, unlabeled pump.
>B20 is the widely accepted winter limit when blended with #2, as above 20% it starts to walk away from the lower cloud point of #2. Which is why I said, the higher you go with bio, the greater the risk. Can't measure that risk if you don't know what's coming out of the pump.








