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Nola, did you get a chance to write up or uploaded any pictures for the tutorial for this procedure? I may have to do this, tired of the rattling noise for some time now, and definitely out of warranty for some time as well... much appreciated with any details or pictures of the process...
hi there, how have you prepared the fix? I'm ordering the parts and about to do it in couple of days. Still with cencers: 1.the diameter of check valves for my 276 engine; 2.the bolt torque.
hi there, how have you prepared the fix? I'm ordering the parts and about to do it in couple of days. Still with cencers: 1.the diameter of check valves for my 276 engine; 2.the bolt torque.
Same here, literally sitting here looking for which check valve is needed on 276 with serial number around 344000,,(before check valve or updated tensioner was installed at factory). From my understanding anything that came from the factory with the check valves installed, they have larger diameter, anything before would be the smaller one. Can anyone cofirm or post workshop directions for the job.
I called one part store, a seemingly professional one, even their MB consultant told me that MB did not specify the diameter for my M276. what they told me is that both part numbers for the oil check valve fit my engine... WTH... that's why I'm putting both valves in the cart waiting to be checked out.
btw, point it out if i missed anything in the cart - x2 tensioners (left and right), x2 oil check valves (left and right), sealant (one tube of 80 g), x2 short cover bolts, x6 long cover bolts, x6 plenum seals (upper seal).
I called one part store, a seemingly professional one, even their MB consultant told me that MB did not specify the diameter for my M276. what they told me is that both part numbers for the oil check valve fit my engine... WTH... that's why I'm putting both valves in the cart waiting to be checked out.
btw, point it out if i missed anything in the cart - x2 tensioners (left and right), x2 oil check valves (left and right), sealant (one tube of 80 g), x2 short cover bolts, x6 long cover bolts, x6 plenum seals (upper seal).
thanks guys.
John
I did place an order as well. Dealership from AZ confirmed that their techs get both sets of check valves and return the ones they don't use.
Although the direction says to replace the cover bolts, I will not be doing it. They are torqued very low and I can't see how they would need replacement. Even few MB techs mentioned it as pointless.
The cover bolts are aluminum and snap off easily, they can be reused but be VERY careful. Yes we got both valves and put in the ones that fit, there was no way to tell before you got in there.
I'm still learning to make double sure I can handle the '40 degrees after cylinder #1 TDC'. So, for the other side, it's to make sure the 40 degrees after cylinder#4 TDC, correct?
I'm still learning to make double sure I can handle the '40 degrees after cylinder #1 TDC'. So, for the other side, it's to make sure the 40 degrees after cylinder#4 TDC, correct?
It's not about TDC on the other cyl, but the other stroke. One side is compression stroke, one is overlap stroke. You do one side at the 40* mark on the crank pulley, then turn the engine one full rotation and do the other side.
Thanks Joe. Actually, I don't get it why the right tensioner has to be removed at 40 degree after TDC of cylinder 1. I think this is the root reason I'm confused with the other side. If i can lock and prevent all pulleys and chain them from moving, what will happen to do the replacement without 40 degree after TDC?
Thanks Joe. Actually, I don't get it why the right tensioner has to be removed at 40 degree after TDC of cylinder 1. I think this is the root reason I'm confused with the other side. If i can lock and prevent all pulleys and chain them from moving, what will happen to do the replacement without 40 degree after TDC?
It is the position with the least pressure on the tensioner. I have done them without turning the engine over but they will pop out quite aggressively when unbolted, make sure nothing launches down into the front cover or you will be removing the engine.
Yeah the tensioner/check valve repair is nice even in warranty, it pays pretty decent and isn't that bad to do. On the N/A 276 it's very easy as you only have to remove the oil filter and the upper half of the intake manifold, just a couple bolts and you've got the covers exposed.
They use aluminum bolts to hold the covers on, the spec is to replace them every time but in reality you can re-use them, the torque is VERY light, so follow it and use a pattern when going back in, as the bolts snap easily. They are not hard to remove but if you've got the covers all sealed up and on, then have to take them off to remove a bolt that breaks, you gotta clean the sealant and start over.
Ensure the cover mating surfaces are spotless and use the specified sealant and amount, it's a 2mm bead which is very small but it squeezes out too much if you go heavier.
Could you (and/or someone else) please elaborate further on that? So, for the M276 it is not necessary to expose the 6 green upper plenum seals? What exactly do you mean by "upper half of the intake manifold"? Perhaps links to pics? TIA
It's not about TDC on the other cyl, but the other stroke. One side is compression stroke, one is overlap stroke. You do one side at the 40* mark on the crank pulley, then turn the engine one full rotation and do the other side.
How do you guys turn the crank pulley? With my w212 m276 electronic shifter, how would I leave the vehicle in neural to turn the pulley while having the battery disconnected due to intake manifold being removed.
do we have pics or details on how to use some home made tool? I think the ones online are over $100, seems like waste of $$$ since it will only be used once.
How do you guys turn the crank pulley? With my w212 m276 electronic shifter, how would I leave the vehicle in neural to turn the pulley while having the battery disconnected due to intake manifold being removed.
In this video, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xpeq2UWDmuk they have the entire engine removed. Is this basically are the steps, in addition to installing the check valve after each tentioner is removed?
For the check valve, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W7Z3Nqlc8gY do we have pics or details on how to use some home made tool? I think the ones online are over $100, seems like waste of $$$ since it will only be used once.
Thanks.
Engine spins freely in Park, just put a socket of the bolt on the crankshaft and spin.
For the one way valve I put it in the freezer than I found a bolt that I threaded into the one-way valve and tapped it into place, there was no need for the tool. make sure you go slow even if you have to take out the bolt a few times to make the valve flush with engine block
Thanks, that makes sense. For the left retention, (driver side), does oil filter housing need to come off? if yes, Is there a part number for the gasket? So far I have both tentioners, both sets of check valve in case one does not fit, sealer for the gasket, and aluminum bolts that MB does not recommend reusing. The only tutorials I seen all mention passenger side, trying to understand what will be involved to reduce the trips to the dealer.
Thanks, that makes sense. For the left retention, (driver side), does oil filter housing need to come off? if yes, Is there a part number for the gasket? So far I have both tentioners, both sets of check valve in case one does not fit, sealer for the gasket, and aluminum bolts that MB does not recommend reusing. The only tutorials I seen all mention passenger side, trying to understand what will be involved to reduce the trips to the dealer.
For passanger side, I only removed the oil filter and the ECU(to get more room if I remember). You can unplug the 2 ECU plugs and pull it straight up(it only sits in rubber grommets). I've done it multiple times and never had an error(no battery disconnected). Get one tensioner off,whichever side has looser chain, install the valve and new tensioner, spin the motor again to 40 degree mark, and the other side should have loose chain.
EDIT: I just realized, this is GL section, I have done this repair on a E class.
Has anyone completed this on the M278 or 157 engines? I have a repair manual but having issues with removing the driver side turbo coolant lines. Can’t seem to get a socket or wrench on the bolt holding the lines to the turbo due to the tight space in the engine compartment. Does the engine have to be removed or raised to gain access to that area?
Bolt in question is (30). How do I get access to remove it from the turbo? Is there a special tool needed?
I had done this to my 2012 cls63 this weekend. I had done the tensioners and check valves as well. while I had the intercooler pipes out I had notice small leak on the turbocharger coolant lines going from block to the turbo driverside.
Remove :
Intercooler pipes
Thermostat housing
Belt
Tensioner pulley and idler pulley (makes install very easy) on aluminum lines.
Loosen 2 aluminum oil lines going into filter remove from housing and move out driver side. Also makes install easier with lines out of way.
To install these line YOU HAVE to remover the 2 engine mount bolts in my case driver side motor mounts and slowly jack motor up just enough to get your socket on and remove bolt on turbo for coolant lines. Very easy this easy trust me.
Also take pics of lines and make sure you order right lines. I found out that some where mid year on my cls62 there are 2 different type lines for same position. One has male fitting going into block with 1 mounting bolt where other has a female fitting going to the block with 2 mounting holes. I found out hard way. I did not know that in middle of that year it.
Line to driver side turbo. I replaced both lines to that turbo as they were brittle to touch. Caution as male part with o-ring may break off inside block. Not to worry what i found to work for me since i had it was piece of wire hanger with one side bent like an L and the L part of the hanger inside the broken piece in block and carefully pry towards the radiator and a lil wd40 to lube oring and popped right out. NOTICE THE ONE MOUNTING HOLE FOR EACH LINES. Others may have 2 holes to mount.
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