Timing chain tensioners and check valves install typical cost???
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From: New Orleans, LA
2013 GL550 and 2015 GL63 AMG
Timing chain tensioners and check valves install typical cost???
My GL550 is making a small rattling sound at cold startup that lasts about 2 to 5 seconds, then I don't hear it anymore. When having other repairs performed at the local dealership, they said this is common to GLs with the M278 engine, and that the Technical Bulletin LI05.10-P-056435 states replacing the timing chain tensioners on each bank of cylinders will remedy the issue. The TB also dictates they install a "check valve" in each oiling port on the head; right behind the timing chain tensioners. Their estimated cost with labor is $1670. I've tried to get two indy shops to give me an estimate, but neither have replied back after over two weeks. I'm tempted to just let the dealership perform the work, but I don't want to overpay as I'm sure they will mark up parts cost and have an exorbitant labor rate compared to the indy shops. I also have toyed with doing this myself since I found a Mercedes technician training video that walks through the entire process. However, I'm certain this would void my extended warranty if I performed it personally. Anyone have this TB based repair performed on their GL, how much did you pay, and did it remedy the issue? Thanks in advance!
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mgLipGD
Agree if you have a warrant have them foot the bull a snap just pay the deductible. Ours is currently in Shop for the same thing and should be back next week. Only out $200 on deductible.
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gl450
I had this done on my 2013 GL450, but it was under warranty, so don't know the cost. Given that it's a well-known issue and that there is a TSB on it, I'd ask the dealer to work with MB USA to cover at least part of the cost.
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From: New Orleans, LA
2013 GL550 and 2015 GL63 AMG
I bought an extended warranty though a third party company called Endurance, but they actually are only the broker of the warranty. They actually sell it to another warranty company, in my case Interstate National Dealer Service, Inc., and that's how they get you. My service advisor actually called the number to get my repair authorized, and they immediately declined to cover the service. I'm in the process of dropping this warranty and using another company that was referred by a reputable indy shop owner. We'll see how it all works out, but I'm sure I'll be footing the bill on this repair.
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From: New Orleans, LA
2013 GL550 and 2015 GL63 AMG
Is your extended warranty through Mercedes, or did you get one through a third party company?
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From: New Orleans, LA
2013 GL550 and 2015 GL63 AMG
I will talk with my service advisor to see if they'll work with me on this repair. Did your service advisor contact MB directly, or did you have to talk with MB before the dealer would perform the repair for free or discounted cost?
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Jul 2017
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From: New Orleans, LA
2013 GL550 and 2015 GL63 AMG
Thread Starter
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From: New Orleans, LA
2013 GL550 and 2015 GL63 AMG
I truly appreciate you posting this. It's very close to the repair estimate I received from my dealership. However, I wonder why they installed three non-return (check) valves? I'll have to research a bit more about this repair on the M278 engines because I was under the impression that certain oiling ports took a larger diameter or smaller diameter check valve. Glad to know your warranty covered everything after the deductible was paid. If I do this repair myself, I'll be in at approximately $23 total since I just need to install the check valves and already have MB sealant for the timing chain access covers. I may just perform this myself. If I do, I'll take a ton of pictures and list the parts I use. Gotta help the next guy down the line. Thanks again for sharing your repair bill!
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From: New Orleans, LA
2013 GL550 and 2015 GL63 AMG
I think I figured out the reason your parts list for the repair was larger than mine. I have a 2013 M278 equipped GL, and yours is a 2005 E55 with the M278. They likely use different oiling port sizes on the heads, plus different timing tensioners.
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E55, GLS450, GL63, GLE350
The E55 used the M113k.
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2003 CL 600
There's only two valves per engine, but there are two different parts depending on which size bore is in the head. That estimate looks like they quoted both and just didn't remove them.
We normally grab all 4 and then just install the right ones when we remove the tensioners and know which ones we need, then give the other ones back to the parts dept.
We normally grab all 4 and then just install the right ones when we remove the tensioners and know which ones we need, then give the other ones back to the parts dept.
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mgLipGD
No we own a 2013 GL550 with a M278, my sig is of my E55 which as stated has a M113k.
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From: New Orleans, LA
2013 GL550 and 2015 GL63 AMG
There's only two valves per engine, but there are two different parts depending on which size bore is in the head. That estimate looks like they quoted both and just didn't remove them.
We normally grab all 4 and then just install the right ones when we remove the tensioners and know which ones we need, then give the other ones back to the parts dept.
We normally grab all 4 and then just install the right ones when we remove the tensioners and know which ones we need, then give the other ones back to the parts dept.
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From: New Orleans, LA
2013 GL550 and 2015 GL63 AMG
I was just confused by the sig. Thanks for sharing the repair estimate for your GL550. It definitely helped me decide with parts to order to ensure correctness along with the Service Bulletin related to the issue. I ordered everything on October 11th, but have to wait until the special tool to install the check valves comes to the States from Germany. Should be a few more days before it arrives to complete the order. Once I get everything, I'll post the full install plus some pictures on the forum. If it goes relatively easily, I may market myself as someone in the area willing to be a "shadetree mechanic" for this repair on local owner's GLs.
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2003 CL 600
Ah, that makes sense. I ordered the check valves via the part number stated on the Service Bulletin for the repair under M278 engines in my engine number segment. I hope they are correct since disassembly will have my vehicle down for a day as I replace the timing tensioners and install the check valves. So, on an M278 equipped GL, how much of the intake/turbo piping do you have to remove to access the front timing covers on the heads? I did a preliminary look yesterday and it appears that there is quite a bit of disassembly required to gain access. After that, it seems pretty straightforward. Also, how do you align the timing chain marks with the engine in the vehicle before removing the tensioners? If you have a link to the full Mercedes guided repair, can you share it? Thanks for the response, by the way!
The timing mark is set by the crank pulley, it's a 27mm socket, you turn it to a certain point for each side, I wanna say +40/-40, but i'd have to look it up. One position keeps the tension off of one specific side, then you turn it and do the other side.
I can't really link the workshop docs, i've tried. I'm sure its out there somewhere though, it's not difficult.
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From: New Orleans, LA
2013 GL550 and 2015 GL63 AMG
The air pipes have to come off but they are simple, although they will be stuck in there pretty good usually.
The timing mark is set by the crank pulley, it's a 27mm socket, you turn it to a certain point for each side, I wanna say +40/-40, but i'd have to look it up. One position keeps the tension off of one specific side, then you turn it and do the other side.
I can't really link the workshop docs, i've tried. I'm sure its out there somewhere though, it's not difficult.
The timing mark is set by the crank pulley, it's a 27mm socket, you turn it to a certain point for each side, I wanna say +40/-40, but i'd have to look it up. One position keeps the tension off of one specific side, then you turn it and do the other side.
I can't really link the workshop docs, i've tried. I'm sure its out there somewhere though, it's not difficult.
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They use aluminum bolts to hold the covers on, the spec is to replace them every time but in reality you can re-use them, the torque is VERY light, so follow it and use a pattern when going back in, as the bolts snap easily. They are not hard to remove but if you've got the covers all sealed up and on, then have to take them off to remove a bolt that breaks, you gotta clean the sealant and start over.
Ensure the cover mating surfaces are spotless and use the specified sealant and amount, it's a 2mm bead which is very small but it squeezes out too much if you go heavier.
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From: New Orleans, LA
2013 GL550 and 2015 GL63 AMG
Yeah the tensioner/check valve repair is nice even in warranty, it pays pretty decent and isn't that bad to do. On the N/A 276 it's very easy as you only have to remove the oil filter and the upper half of the intake manifold, just a couple bolts and you've got the covers exposed.
They use aluminum bolts to hold the covers on, the spec is to replace them every time but in reality you can re-use them, the torque is VERY light, so follow it and use a pattern when going back in, as the bolts snap easily. They are not hard to remove but if you've got the covers all sealed up and on, then have to take them off to remove a bolt that breaks, you gotta clean the sealant and start over.
Ensure the cover mating surfaces are spotless and use the specified sealant and amount, it's a 2mm bead which is very small but it squeezes out too much if you go heavier.
They use aluminum bolts to hold the covers on, the spec is to replace them every time but in reality you can re-use them, the torque is VERY light, so follow it and use a pattern when going back in, as the bolts snap easily. They are not hard to remove but if you've got the covers all sealed up and on, then have to take them off to remove a bolt that breaks, you gotta clean the sealant and start over.
Ensure the cover mating surfaces are spotless and use the specified sealant and amount, it's a 2mm bead which is very small but it squeezes out too much if you go heavier.
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From: New Orleans, LA
2013 GL550 and 2015 GL63 AMG
The whole process for the rattling timing chain issue was not too difficult. Just a lot of turbo/intercooler piping removal as well as working in tight spaces to remove the torx head bolts off the timing chain covers, then getting the MB sealant and bolts back in was a bear. Getting ahold of the special tool to install the check valves might be the difficult part. Mine was special ordered from Germany by my dealership connection. I'll write up the tutorial soon. Thanks for the interest in the thread.
(p.s. in response to your pre-edit post: I am a bit of a DIY guy, but with a full StarDAS SCN and coding capable programmer/diag machine, access to WIS/ASRA and EPC, tons of MB specific tools, and a mini-shop in my garage. I'm also a previous BMW/Ford/KIA tech and was a Corvette restoration apprentice as my first job out of H.S. So, I'm a slightly above-average DIYer you could say.)
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2003 CL 600
The check valves can be installed with a bolt and nut if you're careful. If you have the proper size thread that will screw into them, then a nut that threads down so you don't bend the pin, and LIGHTLY tap them in with a hammer. We have a special bolt that's bent slightly and works very well to give added clearance lol. It's all in the care you take installing them, as you say, it's not a difficult job, but somewhat time consuming and tedious.
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The air pipes have to come off but they are simple, although they will be stuck in there pretty good usually.
The timing mark is set by the crank pulley, it's a 27mm socket, you turn it to a certain point for each side, I wanna say +40/-40, but i'd have to look it up. One position keeps the tension off of one specific side, then you turn it and do the other side.
I can't really link the workshop docs, i've tried. I'm sure its out there somewhere though, it's not difficult.
The timing mark is set by the crank pulley, it's a 27mm socket, you turn it to a certain point for each side, I wanna say +40/-40, but i'd have to look it up. One position keeps the tension off of one specific side, then you turn it and do the other side.
I can't really link the workshop docs, i've tried. I'm sure its out there somewhere though, it's not difficult.
